Yeah, I noticed that. Sorry.

Any tips on how to resize them?

I even tried to delete them, but I don't see a way to do so.

I actually haven't had it up to speed yet, where I imagine it would make the most difference. It looks cool, however. :cool:

Resize the originals before you upload them. The only way to fix the above is to go in and delete the big ones posted and replace with smaller ones. I usually resize to a medium 480x800 reso. Seems to work for just about any display.

Thank you, I tried to delete the existing ones, but I cannot find a delete button. I'd be glad to delete the entire post, if I could.

Edit: Never mind, I figured out how to delete them. Thanks!

Today I drove mine to work. I went through a pothole slowly as I turned left from a stop sign and a small stone got thrown up and became lodged between the passenger side brake disk and its dust shield. It made a hell of a scraping racket until I got up to highway speed and it dislodged itself. I stopped by my indy on the way and they took a look and confirmed it was a rock that was now gone and there was no real damage. Glad it was nothing more as tonight is tech inspection for an upcoming HPDE on 5/31 and 6/1.

Oil Change time. Hard to believe I have put 5k miles on it. Time flies when you're having fun.

So this time I installed the LN filter adapter and Wix filter. Refilled with 5w40 this time around. I live in central CA and it NEVER drops to below freezing.

Just curious, what pushed you to go with the adapter? I know a lot of people do that, but I don't know why. Am I missing something?

I personally like the cartridges because they're easy to cut open and inspect for metal and stuff.

Better filtration and a higher micron rating. It will take a A LOT of oil changes for the adapter to pay for itsef, but eventually it will. And I work at a dealership, I get Wix filters really cheap. We also have a very nice filter cutter here. Plus several companies for oil analysis if I really want to go that far.

Good to know. Thanks.

It was just a great marketing scheme that got people to do this. Stick with the canister type and checking your filter as normal. You do need to change the actual canister every now and then as there is a little valve at the bottom that can go bad over time. The last time I bought the canister it was around $25 shipped and comes with a filter.

Well they raised the price a bit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/For-Porsche-911-Boxster-Cayenne-Cayman-Oil-Filter-Cover-Cap-Genuine-99610702055/362475763649?epid=1222075725&hash=item54653d37c1:g :lAMAAOSwI7Fb2tBX

This seller has it cheaper.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-911-Boxster-Cayenne-Cayman-Oil-Filter-Cover-Cap-GENUINE-996-107-020-55/371447966767?epid=1630250591&hash=item567c062c2f:g :a0IAAOSwQN5acX1s

Thank you as well.

Food for thought either way, but I'm leaning towards keeping the canister, at least for now.

Our forum sponsor sells it for <$21.50.

Unfortunately if you only buy this and don't spend $100 to get free shipping it will cost you $33.25 which is still cheaper then the first link I gave.

I bought a lightly wrecked base 99 manual 5spd last year and proceeded to repair it.
Early this year I replaced brake rotors, pads, sensors and every suspension wear component. I painted the calipers red and replaced the flexible brake lines (poseur alert).

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1558992246.jpg

Enjoyed it for a few months until one day pulling away from stoplight, it popped the driver side CV joint. I decided to go all in and fix all the "while you're in there" items since the car had no maintenance records and 120k miles. Sooooo.....new CV joints, new rear wheel bearings, new AOS, RMS, IMS bearing (LN ceramic), coolant expansion tank, spark plugs, all fluids and all filters, flywheel/clutch/TO bearing, motor and transmission mounts, water pump/Tstat, coolant hoses, serpentine belt. This car should be good for another 50k miles :cheers: In my haste to get things back together, I forgot to take pics of the new LN bearing. DOH!


new RMS; about to pull the old IMS bearing
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1558992494.jpg


Old IMS bearing
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1558992387.jpg


old water pump with metal impeller
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1558992626.jpg

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1558992906.jpg


Look how bad the motor mount was failing. You can see it split right through.
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1558993108.jpg

Very common for the motor mount. Mine fell apart when I removed it. 02S with 60k. I really think, for anyone just buying a Boxster that doesn’t have record of a new motor mount, just get it done. Absolutely worth it.

Pulled the starter... to grease it up and quiet it down. Didn't have to. Pulled on the the starter gear and immediately it retracted. So... I'm chalking up the cold start sound to the chains rattling over the guides pre-oil. All that work for nothing.

On another note... was slipping on a new hose over the two inches of hose sticking from the power steering reservoir... and it broke flush with the reservoir. No sticking on a new hose. Is that a big deal? The power steering reservoir hose (coming from the top side) hasn't been leaking. It had a kink that would have prevented any overflow from dribbling out... I cut it off... went to slip on a new hose (over the existing remaining 2 inches) and it snapped of flush. Big deal?

Thanks.

https://pp.userapi.com/c851024/v8510...bHL7KTVoUY.jpg

And we're lighter by nearly two kilos! Yeeehaw!
With all seriousness, I STRONGLY recommend everyone to get rid of the rods for the electric roof and use it manually:
- it's FASTER (about 3 times!)
- it's elegant and silent (no loud motor buzzing)
- it's SAFE (if you had.... problems.... before - you know. Torn roof material, bent/broken roof lid, torn water trays, etc.)

The roof lid does not open or flap on bumps and/or high speed. In fact, it's shut tight under the weight of the downforce when you're cruising. The ONLY inconvenience you may experience is this: if you raise the lid after you close the doors (i.e. a passer by fuc*ing with your parked car? ouch!), the alarm will come off.
I'm feeling fantastic that I solved the roof question FOREVER.

I got a new set of tires today. Michelin Pilot Sport 4S from Costco. They currently have $70 off a set of 4 tires plus a $60 Costco gift card on top of their already low prices which also include a 5 year road hazard warranty. And they fill the tires with pure nitrogen instead of air which is only 70% nitrogen :cheers:! I've bought tires from Costco before for my other cars and they've always done a great job, but never bought tires for the Boxster from them. I was a little concerned since I just had my wheels refinished but they didn't nick them at all so I'm very happy. Total cost including NJ sales tax was $946 for the 4 18 inch tires and will be $886 when I receive my $60 Costco card in 4-6 weeks.

care to elaborate on what exactly you have done here? are you saying that the entire hood has to now be put up and down by hand, including lifting up the back hood cover metal thing?
i'm guessing its not very elegant as you say, its hardly going to be MX5 type of speed and ease to hood up and down?
or am i missing what you have done here...?

I removed all push rods, V-levers, and ball-end rods. Back lid and convertible top are now manual. The whole operation is a lot faster than with an electric motor. You unlatch the roof, get out of the car, raise the lid, lower the roof (neither of them is any heavier than a briefcase), lower the lid and that's it. 10sec maybe, and not minutes like the automatic mode. Observing the damage done to the V-rods... I can safely say this mechanism can not work well. It uses excessive force, applying it to a super fragile soft top. If it's working on your car, good - but it's only a matter of time till the electric motor breaks your roof, bringing a very costly $1000ish repair. Yes, that also usually happens... when rain starts.

If yours was taking minutes - then there was something seriously wrong. The published number is 12 seconds, which seems accurate.

So many things wrong, here...

Auto top takes about 12 seconds, not minutes (plus you don't have to get out of the car).
I can safely say the mechanism does work well. Mine is 20 years old and still works perfectly. Doing regular maintenance and lubing things helps.

I'm glad you like it, because that's what matters. :)
No way I'd trade my beautifully working electric top for manual.

I turned mine to manual mode like you did because the rod ends had broke, damaged the drain pans and the messed up my CLU (previous owner). Luckily it starts, runs and drives great, and getting better with all the TLC I'm doing. I still have many electrical gremlins I need to get sorted out (alarm, FOBs / auto locks, electric windows won't roll down etc.). Qumulus on here rebuilds the CLUs with great success and I intend to have him repair the CLU when I get around to it. That should address most of the electrical issues.

While I agree that it's pretty easy to get the top up and down in manual mode, I would have liked to have kept it in auto. It's on my list to rehab this function eventually. But not a priority at the moment.

it will destroy the car again. I can show you how much damage it did to very heavy duty parts. This thing in insanely overpowered in 986.

in fact, the ball end of the push rods on my 1998 car was METAL. I want to ************************ kill whoever did that "upgrade/repair"! Had to use a long file to release it. Also I have no idea how it was possible to even attach it there, the diameter being narrower than the ball. This should have been one of the reasons why the whole mechanism got destroyed, when the least durable component is suddenly changed to the most durable one, then the rest goes to hell. But in my specific case, the big reason was the left side electric defunct motor after being flooded (the dude I bought the Boxster from had no idea about the clogged water drain holes, and thought the swooshing sound was from the water pump.......)

https://pp.userapi.com/c850432/v8504...crKsEkrbps.jpg

Finished my wing, pretty much. http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1559149904.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1559149951.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1559150016.jpg

Beautifully done like all your modifications !!!!
When will the new front bumper appear?

Looks awesome. Did you test drive it a bit, to see if it is wobbly at higher speeds?

Thanks! Getting it tomorrow �� Got my fingers crossed its OK ��

Thank you! Not yet, probably later today 🤞

Finished the refurb, paint and install of my Aerokit I side skirts. perfect understated look I was going for.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a9bb2fba28.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Got my bumper in a box. No trimming, no bodyshop, no clips or screws yet and it went right on.http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1559257711.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1559257741.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1559257787.jpg
http://986forum.com/forums/uploads02...1559257834.jpg

Looks great. Where did you buy the Aerokit I side skirts from?

Tastefully done! Great looking car. What did you use to affix the side skirts?

Looks perfect Fred :cheers::cheers:

Love the spoiler...looks great

Thanks Tommy, JR and Kram for your comments on my Aerokit I skirts. You can still get them new from Porsche but they’re around $1,400 for the set IIRC.

I bought mine used on eBay and they were really in rough shape. Because Porsche meant them to be permanently mounted they’re hard to take off without destroying the upper mounting rails which are molded into the skirts. It required lots of work to refurb them. Someday I’ll do a detailed post.

I mounted the upper edge with 3M VHB automotive tape and the lower edge to the pinch weld with Porsche Aerokit II mounting clips. Thanks to Tommy for the pics of his mounted and to whoever sent me the AK I & AKII install bulletins. They were both invaluable.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...e6113473e3.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b4237f4d18.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b15f5ebfcb.jpg


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Really nice, Fred. Perfect. Oh...and some old info from the Seal gray thread, which I posted there:
Yup, they hang on that rail...and are additionally glued to them, bullet proof.

http://986forum.com/forums/uploads01...1421849570.jpg

takes a strong arm and a (professional) power-tool to drill those screw-bolts into the metal :matchup:
Drilling holes beforehand is not recommended due to corrosion issues.

Take your time!!
...if you slip off while drilling, pushing with full power --> free dents and scratch marks :D

Thanks Bran. I think the only way you find used Aerokit I skirts is from a wrecked car. I can’t imagine anyone taking them off for any other reason if they were installed per Porsche instructions. As usual the top flanges on mine were destroyed for the most part. I had to fabricate a new lip for the length of the skirt so that I could have a surface at the correct width, depth and angle to which I could attach to the car using the 3M VHB tape. The Aerokit IIs are much easier to deal with used because Porsche used tape from the start on the upper edge rather than the rail and glue.

Peelers look nice! I always loved them on certain Audi's, they look good on the snake.