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Old 10-02-2012, 07:21 AM   #21
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Top Speed doesn't list their Short Shifter any longer..

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Old 10-02-2012, 07:33 AM   #22
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They have it on Ebay now.

@Homeboy981,
Mine are a little tight and I tried to loosen the side nuts and got some relief. Can you please explain how you made the adjustments, why and the resulting effect? I'm sure quite a few would find it useful including me. For me at least I'm not sure adjusting what does what to the mechanisms actually.
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Old 10-02-2012, 08:01 AM   #23
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They have it on Ebay now.

@Homeboy981,
Mine are a little tight and I tried to loosen the side nuts and got some relief. Can you please explain how you made the adjustments, why and the resulting effect? I'm sure quite a few would find it useful including me. For me at least I'm not sure adjusting what does what to the mechanisms actually.
This may or may not be one thing to look at but…

GREASE!!! The thing needs lots of grease in the right places BEFORE you install it and BEFORE it is torqued down. In other words, take it out (if you have not done it), loosen the bolts on the sides and the top and bottom. Poly Moly was what I had at hand. Grease it up, tighten hand tight OR LESS and wipe of all grease.

Then, torque down the shifter nut using (?? wrench) on the sides so that it is "just right" (not too tight but not too loose either). Not sure of the ft/lbs needed. That will REMOVE side-to side slop.

To relieve the "slop" on the ends (or more precisely at the end of your shift throw) you will tighten that down with an allen wrench AFTER you installed in it the shifter console. Again, I do NOT know the torque but it just enough. You will be able to tell how tight it is as more grease is replaced by tightening it down. It is plastic on the console so DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN. Having said that, it DOES require you to ensure the SSK is "bedded" by trying to physically "rock" the shifter after you tightened it. Rock it a little more and re-tighten.

One other thing too…I installed the cable end out of billet Aluminum (see previous pic) and it "hits" the underside of the shifter console lightly when I put in reverse. DOES NOT EFFECT SHIFTING…but this will depend on your cable length. AND the Cable End Piece DOES NOT HAVE ANY SLOP IN IT WHEREAS THE STOCK PLASTIC PIECE THAT GOES ON THE END OF THE SHIFTER THAT CONNECTS THE FORWARD GEARS HAS A LOT OF "GIVE" IN IT! The plastic piece is junk…the replacement is almost the cost of the SSK.

To me it is worth the price paid. And I KNOW the WHOLE SHIFTER IS SOLID NOW!

Mine is rock-solid but is not too tight. If that makes any sense.

Hope that helps!
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Old 10-02-2012, 08:52 AM   #24
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Thanks. I think I'll have to add some grease. Console is out for painting so would be the right time to do what you have described.
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Old 10-03-2012, 06:30 AM   #25
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That is when I did mine. There is NO HURRY! That console takes AT LEAST a week to cure, because it is plastic or something like that.

If you still feel shifting is the least bit sloppy, it may be due to the Shifter Linkage,

Schnell makes the ones I found, they seem to be the least expensive, here's the link:

Boxster 996 Shifter Linkage Upgrade By Schnell: Shifter Pedal Assembly &amp Shifter Assembly Related

Happy Shifting!
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Old 10-03-2012, 07:10 AM   #26
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If you still feel shifting is the least bit sloppy, it may be due to the Shifter Linkage,

Schnell makes the ones I found, they seem to be the least expensive, here's the link:

Boxster 996 Shifter Linkage Upgrade By Schnell: Shifter Pedal Assembly &amp Shifter Assembly Related
Did you use these on both cables, or is it only designed for one? If the latter, which one? Any pics of the install?
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Old 10-03-2012, 11:27 AM   #27
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do not use this product.
the small Allen screws that supposed to attach it to the cable, are a joke.
the inner diameter of the part, is not even close to the size of the cable.
in my case the end of the cable was plastic, so adding the part ruin the thread.
it is almost impossible to adjust after installed.
i'm replacing my transmission cables this week, putting back the plastic part that was perfectly good when removed. ill replace it in 10 years if needed.
that was one of the most stupid things i did on my car, "while i was in there" doing the short shiftier.
homeboy, do you have it installed in your car?
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:12 PM   #28
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do not use this product.
the small Allen screws that supposed to attach it to the cable, are a joke.
the inner diameter of the part, is not even close to the size of the cable.
in my case the end of the cable was plastic, so adding the part ruin the thread.
it is almost impossible to adjust after installed.
i'm replacing my transmission cables this week, putting back the plastic part that was perfectly good when removed. ill replace it in 10 years if needed.
that was one of the most stupid things i did on my car, "while i was in there" doing the short shiftier.
homeboy, do you have it installed in your car?
MEIR,

before you throw those away would you mind sending them to me? i'll cover shipping, etc. i'd like to look at them and see what can be done to make them actually work. no wonky allen screws. is the boxster shifter cable actually cable or is it flexible rod? thanks.

brad
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Old 10-03-2012, 02:05 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by sgt brad View Post
MEIR,

before you throw those away would you mind sending them to me? i'll cover shipping, etc. i'd like to look at them and see what can be done to make them actually work. no wonky allen screws. is the boxster shifter cable actually cable or is it flexible rod? thanks.

brad
no problem Brad.
i will ship it to you as soon as i get them of the car.
it is not that complicated to build a nice sifter linkage. the only thing they needed to do, is to make the hole in the same size of the shiftier cable rod, withe matching thread.
in that case you will only have to screw it on, instead using the Allen screws.
the cable it self is flexible, and at is end, it has metal rod with plastic tread.



the hole in the linkage was too small to go over the plastic tread, and too big when the plastic part was shaved. maybe it will work fine with the "all metal" version of the cable. in the replacement cable i have, the tread is part of the rod, and made of metal.
on top of that, the socket it self (i don't have another word to describe the part in the linkage that hose the sifter ball) is very stiff, and you can feel it when moving the shiftier. once mounted, it is very hard to remove for fine tuning of the shiftier.
PM me your address, and i let you know the shipping costs by the end of the week.
hope to start working on it today.
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:06 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meir View Post
do not use this product.
the small Allen screws that supposed to attach it to the cable, are a joke.
the inner diameter of the part, is not even close to the size of the cable.
in my case the end of the cable was plastic, so adding the part ruin the thread.
it is almost impossible to adjust after installed.
i'm replacing my transmission cables this week, putting back the plastic part that was perfectly good when removed. ill replace it in 10 years if needed.
that was one of the most stupid things i did on my car, "while i was in there" doing the short shiftier.
homeboy, do you have it installed in your car?
@Meir - sorry to hear you had such a bad experience. Mine is FINE! Here's why….I originally tightened the linkage to the plastic, as you stated, however, after looking closer at it - and having the same concerns you expressed…I tried something else. Perhaps I neglected to mention it but…

1). If you place the linkage OVER the plastic and use the allen bolts to "lock down" on the cable - THERE IS NO WAY IT CAN MOVE. I took it a step further and added BLUE LOCTITE to the Allen bolts BEFORE I installed it. Thought I was just being prudent. Apparently that was the difference between success for me and failure on your end. But PM me and I can give some other "tricks" to get you shifting again.

I LOVE the shifting in my car. Will re-check that piece - just to be certain, again. Have checked it twice (when I was re-doing console) and it was STILL SOLIDLY IN PLACE AND SECURE AS IF IT WERE FROM THE FACTORY - WITHOUT ANY SLOP!

Good luck!
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Old 10-04-2012, 07:14 AM   #31
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@Meir,

One other thing is that the linkage DOES HAVE AN ADJUSTMENT (once OVER the threads) of about 2" of adjustment to the cable length using the threaded end piece. It has a lock nut - which I hit with Blue Loctite too! I DID NOT have to shave bits off the Shifter Cable, just hit with a little WD!

My shifter, with the TS Short Shift Kit AND LINKAGE is TIGHT! No Play in ANY of it. Doubtful that could EVER BE SAID about the Factory plastic. Sounds like you know that. Got pic of YOUR DESIGN?
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:15 PM   #32
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Didn't see one on ebay? Anyone with direct links? I'd love to pick up a sts for the box!
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Old 10-07-2012, 09:01 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by Homeboy981 View Post
@Meir - sorry to hear you had such a bad experience. Mine is FINE! Here's why….I originally tightened the linkage to the plastic, as you stated, however, after looking closer at it - and having the same concerns you expressed…I tried something else. Perhaps I neglected to mention it but…

1). If you place the linkage OVER the plastic and use the allen bolts to "lock down" on the cable - THERE IS NO WAY IT CAN MOVE. I took it a step further and added BLUE LOCTITE to the Allen bolts BEFORE I installed it. Thought I was just being prudent. Apparently that was the difference between success for me and failure on your end. But PM me and I can give some other "tricks" to get you shifting again.

I LOVE the shifting in my car. Will re-check that piece - just to be certain, again. Have checked it twice (when I was re-doing console) and it was STILL SOLIDLY IN PLACE AND SECURE AS IF IT WERE FROM THE FACTORY - WITHOUT ANY SLOP!

Good luck!
Ok. I just sent a pm to meir before I read this. Are you saying that you covered the plastic thrwaded part with the allen screw end? So the plastic is still the weak link? Seems like a cheap design for porsche to use plastic adjusters on the linkage. Its destined to fail. Are there different cables? I would be shocked to find out that a gt2 or gt3 was similarly equipped
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Old 10-08-2012, 01:05 AM   #34
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The GT2 / GT3 parts are manufactured out of sintered alloy instead of plastic...
You can buy them as a direct replacement for the standard 986 / 987 part - but at a cost.
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Old 10-08-2012, 04:42 AM   #35
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This should settle any concerns on the issue of short shifters.


FVD Brombacher Online Shop - FVD424040 - Multi Adjustable Short Throw Shifter for 996, 986, 997 and 987 (all models) 99'-2012 - INTERIOR
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:49 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Homeboy981 View Post
@Meir,

One other thing is that the linkage DOES HAVE AN ADJUSTMENT (once OVER the threads) of about 2" of adjustment to the cable length using the threaded end piece. It has a lock nut - which I hit with Blue Loctite too! I DID NOT have to shave bits off the Shifter Cable, just hit with a little WD!

My shifter, with the TS Short Shift Kit AND LINKAGE is TIGHT! No Play in ANY of it. Doubtful that could EVER BE SAID about the Factory plastic. Sounds like you know that. Got pic of YOUR DESIGN?
Hi homboy.
yes, i am ewer of the adjustment screw. what i'm saying is you cannot adjust it when the linkage is connected to the cable on one side, and to the shifter on the other.
one of them needs to be connected. it is very hard to disconnect the linkage from the shifter, and messing with the Allen screws was a nightmare.
don't get me wrong, i got it to work, and i'm driving the car almost a year now with that setup. (ill post some pics of the design soon) i just think i can get better results with the OEM linkage, but will see about that.
BTW, once i decided i want to go back, i needed new shifter cables (destroyed the plastic tread on the original cable).
i found a set on eBay for 40$. now check this out...the cable i got from eBay is identical to mine, except the fact the tread at the end of the cable is made of metal (i will post a pic of that too).

Last edited by Meir; 10-08-2012 at 07:51 AM.
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:55 AM   #37
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Brad, i replied to your PM.
by the way from all the talking about the linkage, i forgot to mention that the SS kit is awesome. only regrets i have, is not installing it sooner.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:05 PM   #38
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Johnny, I dont know how you find all of this stuff. But, you always pull the coolest crap out of thin air. Too bad its 1k.
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Old 10-09-2012, 04:52 AM   #39
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Johnny, I dont know how you find all of this stuff. But, you always pull the coolest crap out of thin air. Too bad its 1k.
I picked one up the other day, along with a couple of more jars of Swiss Wax . Just tell FVD that JD referred you, and they 'll give you the special price of $981.00.
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Old 10-09-2012, 07:25 AM   #40
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I picked one up the other day, along with a couple of more jars of Swiss Wax . Just tell FVD that JD referred you, and they 'll give you the special price of $981.00.
i have some license plate bulbs i found for you in a bargain price:
2x Error Free White LED License Plate Light Bulbs 3SMD Festoon 6418 C5W | eBay
and the shipping is free :dance:

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