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Old 08-16-2011, 12:20 PM   #1
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Worn paddles make noise and can give cam deviation values outside the limits (+/- 6 degrees), but I have never seen one cause a code per se.
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Old 08-27-2011, 10:18 PM   #2
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Still having same issue with DuraMetric... Help Anyone...

So now to recap, had issues using durametric to get a reading off the camshaft position 2 deviation under available actual values (NOT THERE! NOTHING) Cam Deviation 1 shows up.

I purchased a new sensor and changed out bank 2 cam position sensor (THE ONE BEHIND DRIVERS SEAT, RIGHT?). There is still no reading for bank 2 dev. I have checked the connection and wiring looks good. I have not tested sensor, but it is brand new. What else woulkd cause the sensor for bank 2 deviation to not show up in durametric?
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Old 08-28-2011, 07:53 AM   #3
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As the Durametric is reading it from the DME, the ECU must not be getting the signal. You may need to check the entire circuit from the sensor to the DME plug for continuity. For that, you will need a digital multimeter and a wiring diagram specific to your model and year in order to find the correct pins on the DME plug. If the wiring checks out, your next suspect is the DME itself.
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Old 08-28-2011, 09:12 AM   #4
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Ok, I noticed a strange phenominon. When I start the bank 2 camshaft under actuations, the car sputtered and died. I tried the same with Cam 1 start, and nothing happened. What is that about? are the actuators are working at least? Am I right in this? Why would 1 not do anything. Is this normal? Is the car sputter and dying normal if you start cam shaft actuators. Is it bad to start those actuators while the car is running?
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Old 08-28-2011, 11:01 AM   #5
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When you activate the VarioCam units, you should hear a click, after which the idle may change a bit; but it should not die, and you should see the cam values move on the Durametric display.
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Old 08-28-2011, 01:54 PM   #6
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When I actuated bank 1 nothing happened to the engine while running, I can hear a slight click I think when the engine isn't running.
When I clicked Bank 2 start while running, she sputtered hard and coughed out.

Another odd occurance, when I turn on AC she runs better and the CEL goes solid. If I turn it off CEL stays solid for about 2 minutes then starts fladhing again. Is it the sensor not adjusting, and the AC kicks up idle closer to the existing default no sensor running range?

I found what pins go where (25 on Connection) and how tho test the connection and the sensor. Yup climbing the learning curve, thanks for helping me narrow it down. If you had to guess statistically, what direction should I test first? start at DME and move towards sensor or start at sensor going back to DME? Just wanting to rule out most likely candidate issue first.
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Old 08-28-2011, 02:43 PM   #7
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Direction is unimportant as you would be looking at continuity, which is a loop. Once you confirm continuity, meaning that the wiring is intact, next look at resistance, which should be very low. I would also look at checking the wiring to a ground source, looking for a possible short.
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