Front wheel bearing on a '01S

[JFP in PA]

I was checking back on your post to see how you made out when I noticed something in your second picture; is that exactly how the tool is set up when you encountered the resistance? Reason I ask is that I just notice the center bolt in your pic is protruding out quite a bit (the large silver thrust wash is not in contact with the tool’s cup face as it is in my photo and the one below). If that is the case, something is not set correctly and you should disassemble the tool and reset it so that the thrust washer is up against the tool when you start to tighten it; that may help with your issue…….

[Frodo]

Too late...the task is accomplished and (probably) the damage is done. I noticed when I set it up: the piece you referred to (they call it the "Support Disc #5") would slide past the threads of the big bolt, but then butted up against a narrow lip that was the beginning of the thread-less shaft. That's why, in the second pic of my last post, you can see like 1 1/2" of shaft between the narrow support disc (black) and the thrust bearing (silver colored).

I cranked the hell out of the thing (adding a piece of pipe into the mix---making my breaker bar 2' long or better. Leverage is a wonderful and dangerous thing, ain't it? ). It turned, but only with A LOT of effort. I kept stopping, removing the crescent wrench (the stopper, on the inside bolt head), looking for progress on bearing movement, oddly never really seeing any. I hadn't gotten far before I realized that it was the 1 1/2" gap that was compressing, the bearing itself not moving a whit. At that point I realized something was not right but figured I was more or less committed---any damage done to the support disc was done, and wasn't going to get any worse by my continued effort. AND, once that 1 1/2" gap disappeared altogether and the support disc contacted the thrust bearing, something else had to start moving, presumably the bearing. That proved to be true, and ultimately the bearing came out cleanly.

Now, however, I have the support disc semi-permanently wedged onto the bolt against the thrust bearing:



It IS tight. I might be able to carefully beat it out with a hammer (buffered with a block of wood), but may just leave it for now until it becomes apparent I even need to get it off. As far as I can tell, I may in fact not need to do that, may still be able to use the tool as is. But I definitely could be wrong about that...time will tell. (My peanut brain can't think that far ahead!)

In all honesty, I don't know what went wrong. The support disc was oriented right, because it had a thin lip that fit nicely into the next piece (the wide spacer sleeve). It just seemed like the hole in the center was not quite as big as it should have been.

Oh well, onto the next step...

[Frodo]

BTW, JFP, I have to tell you: While I was cranking on the thing, working up a sweat, my son shows up in his Celica, wanting to appropriate some garage space next to the Boxster so he can adjust his end links or some such thing. (We’re constantly stealing tools away from each other.) Anyway, he sees what I’m doing, working my a$$ off, and comments “You really need to put the impact wrench on that, Dad.” I told him I was NOT going to do that, that the instructions with the SIR state categorically that “Positively DO NOT USE POWER OR IMPACT TOOLS,” that it will invalidate the warranty, etc, etc. (He doesn’t read instructions, wouldn’t follow them if he did.)

This continues for awhile, his impact wrench comments directed at me as I’m drippin’ sweat everywhere as I crank. You know, stuff like, “Dad, a real man would put down that breaker bar and go for the impact wrench.” On and on, me stickin’ to my guns, him raggin’ on me about my pig-headedness.

Anyway, so awhile later I was re-reading your post about my set up. I had previously seen the “Looks right” part, but had missed the second part (below your photo) in which you had to go valid his argument with your “Normally, I would use an impact wrench to get it moving.” I was the good loser, however, and did show him your recommendation…

I take it you’ve never broken a SIR tool this way??

[JFP in PA]

No, I have never had a failure with one of these tools. On new ones, some of the bits do fit tightly, but loosen up with use and wear. And, while SIR does say not to use an impact tool, it really does speed up the process of breaking the bearing loose as they do take a "set" to the car. Once the bearing starts to move, it usually comes out with a hand ratchet.

What you might want to do with yours now is to take it to someone with a hydraulic press and have them pop the center shaft out, then de-burr the problem area so the disc moves freely and this does not happen again. I’m sure the tool is fine, these things can really take a beating and still work, which is why they are worth owning, along with the fact that SIR makes adaptor pieces that can make the basic tool fit just about any make of car.

[WhipE350]

Frodo -

I assume you are way past this, but I found this link I had bookmarked. The method used would require an alignment/adjustment of the rear camber though.

http://boxcar-racing.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=a5b41085554217d7e6f13d6aa03569 1f&topic=562.0

Removing that eccentric bolt (if even eccentric in the front, think camber is determined by three bolts at top of strut housing) in the front though is a pain in the a-s if I remember.

Anyway just thought I would pass this on, cheers.

[Frodo]

Okay, time to swivel the socket wrenches from CCW over to CW and start puttin' things back together. Thanks to everyone for input, BTW.

General question: As has become apparent by my pics, and despite the benefits of having the SIR, I've got pretty much everything torn apart here. (My kid got involved, one thing led to another..you know the routine.) In 101 Projects for your Boxster, Wayne makes the broad statement,

It's important to note that you should always use brand new factory hardware when replacing your suspension components. Most of the nuts and bolts used in the front suspension have self-locking compounds impregnated into their threads..."

Now that was in the chapter on "Suspension Overhaul" and included dis-assembly of some items I have not taken apart, but I've taken apart a lot...



On the bolt holding the main part of the control arm (the wishbone, as 101 Projects calls it), for example---should that be replaced? How about the two long bolts that hold the brake caliper in place? What about Loctite? Would that serve the same purpose as the "self-locking compounds"?

Then there's the Red vs Blue Loctite issue. A number of sources here have recommended using the Red on the axle nut, but neither the Bentley manual nor 101 Projects even mentions using any at all: just crank it up to the recommended torque. Is using Blue as a compromise the cowardly way out? My kid counsels against the Red, makes it sound like I'll be essentially welding the piece on. (I'm exaggerating---he doesn't quite go that far. But you get the idea.) Just how tough is it to get off a nut that's been put on with Red?

[insite]

the only bolts you should consider replacing are for the brake calipers. the ends of the top caliper bolts are actually open to a pocket in the wheel carrier. water pools in the pocket and corrodes the bolt. when you unscrew it later, it will pull the corrosion through the aluminum & gall it. eventually, it will seize in the hole.

as for loctite? don't use it anywhere except the axle nut. i personally use red here, but if you hit the correct torque spec, it's technically unnecessary. i use loctite red on any rotating parts where the rotation moment can cause the fastener to back off. this would be the right side axle nuts & right side CV bolts.