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Old 02-22-2011, 01:16 PM   #1
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Accusump Installed this weekend...

It was a pretty straightforward install. The hardest part was the plumbing of the line. I DO NOT LIKE BRAIDED STEEL HOSE!!! Looks good but a ******************** to work with. I noticed that some folks did a connector at the firewall but I just drilled a hole through the firewall and ran the hose through a grommet. I wired the electric switch into the rear wiring harness in the trunk and mounted the toggle switch in the trunk as well. I used the sandwich adapter and spin-on filter adapters from LN. They were really simple and seem like a good solution to me. The trade off is the much smaller filter, but I am going to buy them in bulk and change frequently. I also went with the LN oil pan extension and their magnetic drain plug. If this SOB blows up again, it won't be for lack of oil!!!



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Old 02-22-2011, 01:18 PM   #2
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Is the deep sump spacer still required when you have the accusump installed? How much work is involved for the install?
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Old 02-22-2011, 01:20 PM   #3
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I was seriously considering getting the Accusump, until I saw that LNE recommends changing the oil every 1200 miles. That's about $800 a year in oil changes.

Is that the Corvette oil filter, or does it have to be a smaller one due to the size of the adapter? Does it hang down as low as the oil pan with the LNE deep sump?
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Old 02-22-2011, 01:35 PM   #4
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If I recall it right, they recommend to change the oil FILTER not the oil every 1,200 miles. If you have the spin on adapter from LN engineering you probably lose 1/2 a quart (but it's still messy)
That's why i went with the B-K deepsump which adds 1/2 quart of oil to the sump
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Old 02-22-2011, 01:53 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisZang
That's why i went with the B-K deepsump which adds 1/2 quart of oil to the sump
But don't you still lose that 1/2 quart?
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Old 02-22-2011, 07:10 PM   #6
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No, the deep sump oil pan was not required for the accusump. The shorty filter does not hang below the standard pan. You do lose a little oil in changing just the filter, but I think less than 1/2 quart.
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Old 02-23-2011, 03:08 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_Yi
I was seriously considering getting the Accusump, until I saw that LNE recommends changing the oil every 1200 miles. That's about $800 a year in oil changes.




haha nooo! you read that wrong. they recommend changing the oil FILTER every 1200 miles. this is because there is no filter bypass for this style of accusump; if the filter gets clogged, the accusump won't be able to discharge properly.
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Old 02-23-2011, 06:45 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_Yi
But don't you still lose that 1/2 quart?
I meant that I installed the deep sump kit instead of the accusump
The additional 1/2 quart in the wet sump is supposed to give you enough oil to safe you from oil starvation as long as you're not on full slicks, then you will need the accusump
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Old 02-23-2011, 12:50 PM   #9
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Nice installation.....I like the cylinder off of the floor!

The Mantis sump is really deep. Would it do the same job as the accusump apart from nice oil pressure on start-up?

Would I be okay with just a sump on a skid pad and DE stuff. I don't think I will have slicks on my current street car
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Old 02-24-2011, 05:30 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by insite
haha nooo! you read that wrong. they recommend changing the oil FILTER every 1200 miles. this is because there is no filter bypass for this style of accusump; if the filter gets clogged, the accusump won't be able to discharge properly.
I did read that wrong. That's going on my list of wants. I'd love to be able to mount that somewhere underneath though rather than in the trunk.
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Old 02-24-2011, 06:25 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by jaykay
Nice installation.....I like the cylinder off of the floor!

The Mantis sump is really deep. Would it do the same job as the accusump apart from nice oil pressure on start-up?

Would I be okay with just a sump on a skid pad and DE stuff. I don't think I will have slicks on my current street car
I suppose if you are not doing any long sweeping right handers, then you can get by with just the deep sump. I was looking for some peace of mind that I am not going to sling another rod! You can never say never, but like I said, it won't be for lack of oil if I can help it.
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Old 02-24-2011, 06:31 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron in Atlanta
I suppose if you are not doing any long sweeping right handers, then you can get by with just the deep sump. I was looking for some peace of mind that I am not going to sling another rod! You can never say never, but like I said, it won't be for lack of oil if I can help it.
DO NOT drive Road America then.
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Old 02-24-2011, 07:44 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Byron in Atlanta
I suppose if you are not doing any long sweeping right handers, then you can get by with just the deep sump.
Hmmmm, wouldn't that apply to left handers as well (example turn 2 in Thunderhill)
The oil pickup tube is dead center in the middle.
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:32 PM   #14
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Hmmmm, wouldn't that apply to left handers as well (example turn 2 in Thunderhill)
The oil pickup tube is dead center in the middle.
No because the Boxster engine has a scavenger pump in the left rear.
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Old 02-24-2011, 01:21 PM   #15
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Bonus question, and no pun intended here, as I am just considering this as my next mod to get ready for the track season.
So if anyone pulls such high G that he's running into oil starvation problems shouldn't the next mod be the Motorsport AOS, see this thread:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/21641-will-a-motorsports-aos-work-on-a-boxster.

My decision is to wait until it happens again, so far I had it happen only once after existing turn 2 in Thunderhill: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkWsIT6C664
I was on Sport Cups then, this season will be on less sticky Dunlop Star-Spec so I hope I will be OK.

By the way: my other outstanding track mod will be the underdrive pulley, as I fried my PS pump last season
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Old 02-25-2011, 06:59 AM   #16
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chris -

a better route is to use a catch tank similar to this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CTR-80-206/

route the outlet from the oil separator to the tank & block off the inlet at the throttle. much cheaper & a failsafe solution.

shoot me a message when you get ready to do your accusump (save $$$)


Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisZang
Bonus question, and no pun intended here, as I am just considering this as my next mod to get ready for the track season.
So if anyone pulls such high G that he's running into oil starvation problems shouldn't the next mod be the Motorsport AOS, see this thread:
http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php/topic/21641-will-a-motorsports-aos-work-on-a-boxster.
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Old 02-25-2011, 09:47 AM   #17
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Ouch, are we saying that long sweeping rights will develop high enough g loading on ps2s (as in without slicks)? What sustained g loading threshold are we talking about? I might just put my i-phone up on my dash and set an alarm
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Old 02-25-2011, 10:11 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaykay
Ouch, are we saying that long sweeping rights will develop high enough g loading on ps2s (as in without slicks)? What sustained g loading threshold are we talking about? I might just put my i-phone up on my dash and set an alarm


exactly right. something slightly less than 1G can cavitate the sump over several sustained seconds. the oil pools in the head AWAY from the scavenge pump & causes a starvation issue at the pickup tube. this is MOST common with left handers in a boxster (right handers in a 996), but depending upon forward accel / decel, this can hapen in either direction. slicks exacerbate the problem, but it DOES exhist even on street tires.

porsche rectifies this for racing customers with its 'motorsport' upgrade, which is basically the same as the X51 oiling mod. they replace the scavenge pumps with versions that have exterior as well as interior inlets. a tube is run from the OUTSIDE of the scavenge pumps, across the valve covers, and to the other side of the motor. this way, the scavenge pumps can draw oil from either side of the motor. they also add the deeper sump w/ a bit higher oil capacity for good measure. some people modify the baffles as well.

at any rate, all of the above is pretty pricey and still leaves the door to other oiling related failures WIDE open. the accusump pretty much eliminates those problems.

i think the accusump coupled with the 3rd radiator kit & the 'S' oil cooler will get you about as close to dead reliable as this motor can be without cracking it open.
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Old 02-25-2011, 10:16 AM   #19
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here are some photos from chad996's (rennlist) car. note the X51 scavenge pump in the first photo & the gold foil wrapped hard line to the other side of the ead in the other photo:
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Old 02-25-2011, 10:37 AM   #20
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Okay thanks for this comprehensive response. I don't know how the oil system is arranged but from what you are saying oil pooling the opposing head initiates the problem and not sump sloshing. If this correct, a deep sump won't help if oil is trapped in the head. Is this correct?

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