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Old 06-23-2010, 10:58 AM   #1
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I live in Florida and use Castrol Syntec 10-40...
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Old 06-23-2010, 01:30 PM   #2
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one more on bringing oil, filter and filter wrench to an oil change shop. The only hassle is that I have to get them to let the car sit for an hour while the oil drains.
So I can't show up when the place is busy.
Autozone frequently has the 5 for $25 on Syntec 10w40. Filters I can get for $10 each on Ebay or PAP-parts, etc. The oil change shop charges about $25.
I don't like messing with ramps. Has anyone ever tried siphoning the oil out with the pumps they use in Mercedes service departments? Or is it just not possible with this engine set up?
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Old 06-23-2010, 02:12 PM   #3
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The pumps leave a lot of dirty oil behind, and depending upon the model year, not all Boxsters have dipsticks for the pump to pull the oil out.

You cannot do better than putting the car up in the air and pulling out the drain plug...........
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Old 06-23-2010, 04:27 PM   #4
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Blackstone's lab results on my 01's annual oil change and analysis for the third year in a row says my 0W-40 M1 is doing fine and recommends 11,000 mile oil changes.

83,000 miles of hard driving and the oil level still never leaves the full mark between annual oil changes.

Just one guy's experience, but I see no reason to change at this point.
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Old 06-24-2010, 07:34 PM   #5
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Here is the break down of synthetic oil as I understand it. You have 5 classes of synthetic oil. The first 2 classes of oil are conventional oil that has been Hydracracked ( realigning of the oils molecules to make it better and more durable) with a synthetic addative to aid in burning and breakdown. The next 2 classes, 3 and 4, are also Hydracracked with more addative in them (not sure of percentages) to make them even better yet. The last class of synthetic oil, class 5, is a true fully lab made synthetic. The only oils that I'm aware of that are class 5 are Redline, AMS oil (short for ametures oil in my opinion), Torco t4-r and straight weight Mobil race oil. Mobil 1 is a class 2 at best. I personally use Royal Purple which is a class 4 because it is affordable ($9 a quart) and gives plenty of protection in my eyes. I cannot justify $15 a quart for some of the class 5 oils that are out there.
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Old 06-25-2010, 05:21 AM   #6
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Interesting information about the 5 classes, never knew that. What class would Swepco 306 be ?

And, how can one tell which class an oil belongs to from looking at the container ?
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Old 06-25-2010, 01:07 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sppmo
I think you should use whatever brand oil you prefer. I personally don't think there is much difference in any brand. It's like THD (total harmonic distortion) in stereo equipment. Sure you can measure it but you can't hear it under a certain threshold.

I've had cars where I have not changed the oil in 50,000 miles and have not had a problem. But i'm sure people would say I am nuts.
OK your nuts.
I do run the Castrol 10w40 in the Boxster. All my other cars run the oil called "On Sale".
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Old 06-26-2010, 12:59 PM   #8
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Porsche has issued two TSBs on oils. One lists a whole bunch of oils by the country to be used in. The other specifies SAE 0W-40, 5W-40 and one or two 5W-50s.

Make sure API SL minimum, and ACEA A3/B3.

I used Motul 300V 5W-40 last year, a Group 5, maybe 4 oil that is very expensive. I'm going to Castrol Syntec 5W-40 this year to save some money.

OBTW LNE also makes a magnetic drain plug that I will be checking with upcoming annual change.
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