My Boxster says to use mobil 1 but....
I dont understand why everyone says not to use Mobil 1 but my car says to under the hood. How do I know the persons that put 75k miles on it were not using mobil 1 and if they were should I not continue. I live in Maui so temps are 80-90 year around.
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Ever consider how much Mobil paid to ensure that sticker went under your hood??
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The company that made mobile 1 when that sticker was applied was bought by Exxon and they have since changed the product so that it no longer lives up to it's reputation.
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Gotta love auto spell correct on the iPhone!
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At least as important as the oil you use is the interval you change it at
And here is an area where Porsche has, in effect, admitted they made a mistake in their original recommended interval and has lowered the interval. Since Porsche probably based their change judgment on the Porsche engines they see and they are probably mostly using Mobil 1, that tells me I shouldn't trust Porsche's original guidance in this matter. Instead, I prefer to listen to people who have their oil (or their customer's) analyzed and they tell us pretty consistently that Mobil isn't the oil it once was and to use another full synthetic and to change it as frequently as every 3 to 5k miles.
Get some ramps, find a hill, get a 15 quart oil drain container (Autozone $9.99) and learn to do it yourself (you'll need a filter, crush ring and a filter wrench that fits the Porsche filter cover) and buy your oil on sale to keep the costs down. If you use the search function here and search for the term "oil" you'll see many threads where opinions have been offered. |
Yeah, I will always do my own oil changes. I just dont trust anyone when it comes to cars. Too easy for someone to change half the oil. Or overfill the oil and do damage. I dont know I guess I have just seem too many automobile shop scams.
I will use what you guys said to use and see how that goes. I live in a Condo and only have a parking stall so it makes easy things you guys can do in your garage an impossible task. I have already learn a lot about my Boxster thanks to you guys. |
We were just discussing oil on another thread and Pennzoil Full Synthetic (Pennzoil Platinum) comes with high recommendations. I am also happy with Pennzoil Ultra (hyper cleaning full synthetic) in my DD.
I have also been told there is a major difference in the Mobil(e) (( :D )) One you and I can buy over the counter and what Porsche dealers get through Porsche parts system. |
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Not ture; the dealers have the exact same crap the parts stores get.............. |
Don't rule out using a quick change oil place.
If they have Porsche experience. I use one and bring my own oil and parts (filter, crush ring and a spare drain plug I cycle just so it is clean...they give me the old one in a plastic baggie). They give me $5 off for not using their parts. They do about 5 Porsches a month. I go over what we expect and what the torque values are. I monitor the fill and level. I take home the half quart/litre that is left for my lawnmower. My Porsches have never used a drop between fills.
You do have to be cautious driving onto their ramps. I do it at 2MPH. |
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I spoke to a dealer in SoCal and they told me the same thing.
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I live in Florida and use Castrol Syntec 10-40... :D
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one more on bringing oil, filter and filter wrench to an oil change shop. The only hassle is that I have to get them to let the car sit for an hour while the oil drains.
So I can't show up when the place is busy. Autozone frequently has the 5 for $25 on Syntec 10w40. Filters I can get for $10 each on Ebay or PAP-parts, etc. The oil change shop charges about $25. I don't like messing with ramps. Has anyone ever tried siphoning the oil out with the pumps they use in Mercedes service departments? Or is it just not possible with this engine set up? |
The pumps leave a lot of dirty oil behind, and depending upon the model year, not all Boxsters have dipsticks for the pump to pull the oil out.
You cannot do better than putting the car up in the air and pulling out the drain plug........... |
Blackstone's lab results on my 01's annual oil change and analysis for the third year in a row says my 0W-40 M1 is doing fine and recommends 11,000 mile oil changes.
83,000 miles of hard driving and the oil level still never leaves the full mark between annual oil changes. Just one guy's experience, but I see no reason to change at this point. |
Here is the break down of synthetic oil as I understand it. You have 5 classes of synthetic oil. The first 2 classes of oil are conventional oil that has been Hydracracked ( realigning of the oils molecules to make it better and more durable) with a synthetic addative to aid in burning and breakdown. The next 2 classes, 3 and 4, are also Hydracracked with more addative in them (not sure of percentages) to make them even better yet. The last class of synthetic oil, class 5, is a true fully lab made synthetic. The only oils that I'm aware of that are class 5 are Redline, AMS oil (short for ametures oil in my opinion), Torco t4-r and straight weight Mobil race oil. Mobil 1 is a class 2 at best. I personally use Royal Purple which is a class 4 because it is affordable ($9 a quart) and gives plenty of protection in my eyes. I cannot justify $15 a quart for some of the class 5 oils that are out there.
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