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Old 08-04-2009, 03:56 PM   #1
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Temp guage - what is normal?

I have never run at the 180 line. Was b/w the 8 & 0, then changed the water pump and coolant now right thru the center of the 8.

Is this normal?
Or is there ways to bring the temp down?

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Old 08-04-2009, 03:59 PM   #2
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What model? The "S" has 3 radiators and should never have a problem with heat. I am a hair over 180 regularly and a just a little higher until the fans kick in. It never seems to vary to much 5 degrees from 181.
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Old 08-04-2009, 04:06 PM   #3
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if you're at the center of the 8 then you'd be running cooler than if you were between the 80... now if you're over the 0 then running a little hotter... if so make sure you keep your bleeder valve on a day or so to release any air in the system and then check coolant level and fill... after the day or so drop the bleeder valve back down...
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Old 08-05-2009, 05:41 AM   #4
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What everyone is overlooking is that the factory gauge is notoriously inaccurate and non linear; attaching an OBD II scanner with real time data capture capabilities will show that when most gauges are centered around 180F, the engine is actually more like 205-210F, or higher……….so don’t place much faith in what it is telling you………
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Old 08-05-2009, 07:09 AM   #5
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JFP, is there any way to increase the accuracy of the gauge; i.e. different sender or such?

I installed the LN low temp t-stat and the gauge reads lower than before, but my impression is that an idiot light would be about as accurate.

Regarding the coolant bleeder...when I changed my coolant, I drove over 250 miles with the valve open and topped occasionally with distilled water; now it's fine and stable.
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Old 08-05-2009, 07:47 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmatta
JFP, is there any way to increase the accuracy of the gauge; i.e. different sender or such?

I installed the LN low temp t-stat and the gauge reads lower than before, but my impression is that an idiot light would be about as accurate.

Regarding the coolant bleeder...when I changed my coolant, I drove over 250 miles with the valve open and topped occasionally with distilled water; now it's fine and stable.
The temp sender itself is reasonably accurate; it is the dash gauge that is the problem, which does reduce the gauge to little more than an "idiot light". I know of no reasonable way to fix it other than to go to aftermarket units.

We prefer to use a vacuum filling system, 5 min. and the system is ready for years of sealed running..............
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Old 08-05-2009, 10:45 AM   #7
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I agree with jeffs idiot light point, but would add, if you use it as a benchmark, it should always be consistent. Meaning If your car is always at 180, and one day its 190 (unlikely) well you don't know the real temp, but you do know you got a problem. For god sakes what is accurate on the Porsche display? Not the speedometer!!
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Old 08-05-2009, 02:38 PM   #8
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what is accurate on the Porsche display? Not the speedometer!!

I'll tell the cop that when I get pulled over...

"Officer, everyone knows how inaccurate Porsche gauges are"...too bad it reads high and not low.
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Old 08-05-2009, 03:33 PM   #9
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If you have one of the early cars, you can get an accurate coolant temp (°C) reading the climate control unit in diagnostic mode - it's code 6c.

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Old 08-05-2009, 05:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFP in PA
What everyone is overlooking is that the factory gauge is notoriously inaccurate and non linear; attaching an OBD II scanner with real time data capture capabilities will show that when most gauges are centered around 180F, the engine is actually more like 205-210F, or higher……….so don’t place much faith in what it is telling you………
I agree, the dash gauge isn't much better than an idiot light. After I recently changed my coolant, I drove with the AC diagnostic set at the coolant temperature setting and was surprised how high the temperature actually is. My temperature varies from 92c to 108c (197F to 226F) and the dash gauge stays at the high side of the 1-8-0 numbers. There doesn't seem to be much correlation between temperature and driving style. However, stop and go traffic definitely increases temperatures. I looked at my radiators today and saw that they need to be cleaned. That might help lower the temp a little but these cars do run hotter than you think.
I'm also thinking about getting LN's thermostat.
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Old 08-05-2009, 05:52 PM   #11
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How does one set the AC unit to display diagnostic stuff?

Step by step instructions and be sure to tell me what it will display, please!
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Old 08-05-2009, 06:10 PM   #12
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I've just completed installing the LN low temp thermostat & coolant changeout last weekend. My temp guage is metric so I have /80 as opposed to /180 on the display.
Previously the indicator needle lay straight thro the 8, but with the new thermostat it now runs on the left hand side of the 8, slap bang on the / mark.
But the biggest advantage is that the needle stays in this position even when driving in heavy traffic wheras with the original, the needle quickly crept up past the 0 mark of the /80. This leads me to the conclusion that the t/stat is fully opened and is now flowing fluid to the full cooling capacities of the radiators.
As a side note, the old coolant (8 years old with 67,000km or 42,000 miles) was still clear, no scale visible & the inside of the t/stat housing and pipework was perfectly clean too. So maybe the Porsche "lifetime" coolant really is top shelf stuff.....
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Old 08-05-2009, 06:21 PM   #13
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Randall,
Click on this link...
http://mike.focke.googlepages.com/undocumentedacdiagnostics
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Old 08-05-2009, 06:38 PM   #14
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My 2001

So I guess, I will need the OBD II scanner. Any recommendations? My other car is a A6 twin turbo and frequently lights up the check engine light. So probably a decent investment.

BTW I am needing a new cluster anyway (the old KM and frozen cluster trick) seen elsewhere. Will be interesting to see if changing the cluster changes the temp and by how much.
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Old 08-09-2009, 11:35 PM   #15
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[QUOTE:

I agree, the dash gauge isn't much better than an idiot light.

it isn't supposed to be. they made it non-linear around the operating temp so that the needle stays centered and owners don't keep going to the dealer with "my car's running hot/cold" or "the temp needle is always moving" when the temp is actually within the correct operating range.

most european cars are like this...
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Old 08-10-2009, 03:48 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave928
[QUOTE:

I agree, the dash gauge isn't much better than an idiot light.

it isn't supposed to be. they made it non-linear around the operating temp so that the needle stays centered and owners don't keep going to the dealer with "my car's running hot/cold" or "the temp needle is always moving" when the temp is actually within the correct operating range.

most european cars are like this...
They actually ended up with a non-linear, inaccurate gauge because they got it from the lowest bidder...................
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:24 AM   #17
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Accountants won out over the engineers again, huh?

Why is this the recurring theme at Porsche...perhaps a management change will turn things around. I love my Porsches just as much as the next guy, but these cheap shortcuts really irritate me when few a pennies more, they could have sourced the proper component.
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Old 08-10-2009, 03:55 PM   #18
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I agree...

I have a hard time stomaching the "only buy Porsche parts" retoric when I see the quality of some of corners cut. When I replaced the dash speakers, I just laughed - Nokia brand cardboard speakers in a 45K convertible.

Forget the sound quality (it is nonexistent) - but paper in a convertible where it could easily get wet? Whoose idea was that?
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:42 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmatta
what is accurate on the Porsche display? Not the speedometer!!

I'll tell the cop that when I get pulled over...

"Officer, everyone knows how inaccurate Porsche gauges are"...too bad it reads high and not low.
Doesn't work in Wisconsin, the cop just adds another fine for "driving with a faulty speedometer."

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