12-04-2007, 08:14 PM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Kansas
Posts: 58
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Brake Pad questions
I have a few newbie brake pad questions....
I have 33K miles on first set of pads. The rear pads look ok, front ones are getting low.
1 - Is it best to replace pads all around at the same time?
2 - Where can I find the hardware kits online (clip, bolt)?
3 - Where is a good place to buy OEM pads? looking at pap-auto.com, but would like to find a place that has the hardware as well.
4 - Rotors look good, so I am not replacing. But is their anything I should do to the rotors while I am in there? I read one thread about using a 40 grit sandpaper to rough them up.
Any advice would be appreciated.
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12-05-2007, 06:49 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: texas
Posts: 131
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Try Pelicanparts.com, ************************************************************ or ********************************************************************************************. I recommend Mintex red box semi-metallic cause they don't release much dust. The factory OEM brakes are terrible with lots of dust. At 33K miles, I would not replace the rotors. I don't see why you need new clips or other kits...just change the pads. The dealer will typically change everything under the sun (unnecessary) and charge 800-1000 for each axle but you can DIY the pads for $50 each axle, which is all you need.
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12-05-2007, 07:46 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Portlandia
Posts: 53
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Paragon Products and Pelican Parts are both good. I got pads from my local shop, though I am doing the work myself. I went with Pagid RS4-2-1 pads (known as blues).
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12-05-2007, 10:35 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 644
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Hi,
I, too, use Mintex brake pads. The only thing with these pads that I found during my install was that I had to make the little holes myself for the brake pad sensors. But other than that, they have been very good as Porschedude noted earlier ---less brake dust as opposed to the OEM pads.
1 - Is it best to replace pads all around at the same time?
I changed all four (4) pads shortly after I purchased my car. But that's me.
2 - Where can I find the hardware kits online (clip, bolt)?
3 - Where is a good place to buy OEM pads? looking at pap-auto.com, but would like to find a place that has the hardware as well.
Some do suggest buying new OEM brakes and hardware, but I just reused the hardware since I found them to be in very good shape and they were already available....but then again it's not my daily driver. Maybe on a future change over I'll include new OEM hardware that I would purchase directly from the dealer -- OR --I'm sure one of the other guys might have a reliable OEM distributor that they can refer.
4 - Rotors look good, so I am not replacing. But is their anything I should do to the rotors while I am in there? I read one thread about using a 40 grit sandpaper to rough them up.
As long as the rotors look good, IMHO, there's no need to rough 'em up. The only thing I would suggest is that you coat the hats & brims with high temp paint in order to avoid any future rust issues.
Hope this helps you out! Keep us posted!.
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12-05-2007, 11:48 AM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: texas
Posts: 131
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yeah, i dont know why they list Mintex as OEM but it doesn't matter...you can get that pad...it's good stuff. Also, you don't need to change the rear pads if they are still ok. you can use the old brake shims (to prevent vibrations) but you have to remove them from the old pad and perhaps super glue to the new ones...the old shims have a few dimples on the surface i had to flatten out with a mallet in order to use again. also, you don't need to remove the Brembo calipers to change the brake pads unlike a bmw.
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12-05-2007, 12:25 PM
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Lakewood, Ohio / Sedona, AZ
Posts: 305
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Try FCP Groton. They seem to have pretty good prices on things that you can't find easily or on flea bay. I have found Pelican to be a bit on the pricey side but te staff is very knowedgeble and friendly.
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12-05-2007, 01:04 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 644
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Hey dcompress,
Did a quick search on the OEM part number and here's what I found.
The brake pads can be identified by the following part number on the back of each pad:
"New Version: 986.351.930.14 , Old Version: 986.351.930.11, and
New version front brake pad set, part number 986.351.939.13"
BTW, if you're a stickler for OEM (re: I know some people who are and I respect them for it), then I would double check these parts numbers with your local Porsche dealer.
Last edited by dcporsche99; 12-05-2007 at 01:39 PM.
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12-05-2007, 02:13 PM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Kansas
Posts: 58
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Are shims the "damping plate" that sells for like $16? So if I bought new ones, that is $32/caliper. That is a chunk. Is it really feasible to use the old ones? Since rear pads are fine, maybe I will just do the front including new damping plates. It isn't a daily driver. Probably 3-5K miles a year. Rear pads will probably last 2 more years until the next brake bleed.
I will take the advice and go with the Mintex. I was just confused because Pelican description called them OEM, and all were saying the OEMs were crap.
On a side note, a bled the brakes last night (didn't realize the pads needed change until I got into the job) using a Motive bleeder and the ATF Blue. What a simple job with the power bleeder!
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12-05-2007, 04:06 PM
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 644
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Here's a decent link that I found useful before I bought my Bentley Service Manual: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/brakes/change_pads/
Basically, IMHO, if you feel the slightest bit uncomfortable with reusing the old hardware, it may be best for you to just purchase new ones....that way, you can ease your mind and not worry about it later on.
Anyway, I don't agree that the "OEM brake pads are crap". I just don't like how much brake dust they produce.
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12-05-2007, 05:25 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Chicago suburbs
Posts: 1,675
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No need to replace the rears if not overly worn. You will typically go through two sets of fronts for each set of rears. Also, no need to replace all four unless you are changing to a different compound. I would recommend bleeding the system, however. The fluid is hygroscopic and will absord moisture over time.
Missed a post, as I see you did bleed the brakes.
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12-06-2007, 06:32 AM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: texas
Posts: 131
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No need to buy new shims but read my earlier post below.
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