This & That

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by 78F350

Thanks, my picture doesn't show it well, but in person and with the small chips of Arctic Silver Metallic paint still on her bumper, I have no doubt.



I first tried with a spray can, but messed it up. When painting it is Very important to make sure that all the paints and solvents that you use are compatible and mine weren't. The re-paint was done with a spray gun. The paint I used was a single stage acrylic, meaning that there is no need for clear coat over it - it has the gloss as one of it's components.

I set it back on the car today to see how well the color match was. Tomorrow, I'll finish mounting it. I'm really happy with the color and how well the paint laid smooth. I'm going to have to polish the original paint now.

Thanks for sharing this. I`d like to do a very similar paint job on my SAAB convertible, the rear bumper has some deep scratches and looks very ugly. Would you recommend anything special to use to patch them up before sanding and painting?

[78F350]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

... Would you recommend anything special to use to patch them up before sanding and painting?

I have a Polyvance Plastic Welding kit that came with some material called FiberFlex welding rods. It's a fiber reinforced plastic. I have also used the kit to repair cracked and broken under-belly panels. This page has information and a video of a bumper repair similar to how I have done it:
https://www.polyvance.com/video/bumper-repair/fiberflex-bumper-repair-3
On a bumper cover, I prefer doing a 'plastic weld' type of fill to using a body filler such as Bondo.

I did some plastic welding with a soldering iron before I bought it, but really like the temperature control and materials included with this kit. Repair a couple plastic panels and it has paid for itself:

[78F350]

Next up for body work is THAT. The paint on the rear was obviously a re-spray that had been done at some time in the past. About a year ago some of the clear coat started to peel from the repair and there were some fine cracks in the paint. Yesterday, I started sanding off the bad clear and Dremmeling out the cracks. The cracks were almost 1/4" through body filler before I got down to metal. That's not good. I had guessed that it was only a little over a millimeter thick.


I had planned to just use filler after digging out the cracks. Now I think I should try something different. I happen to already have a left rear quarter panel cut from a car that I scrapped a few years ago. I have never done a body panel welding-type repair, but I think that it will be the best way to proceed.


...and to think I started 'cleaning' these two cars up to sell because I have too many other projects that I want to get to.

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by 78F350

I have a Polyvance Plastic Welding kit that came with some material called FiberFlex welding rods. It's a fiber reinforced plastic. I have also used the kit to repair cracked and broken under-belly panels. This page has information and a video of a bumper repair similar to how I have done it:
https://www.polyvance.com/video/bumper-repair/fiberflex-bumper-repair-3
On a bumper cover, I prefer doing a 'plastic weld' type of fill to using a body filler such as Bondo.

I did some plastic welding with a soldering iron before I bought it, but really like the temperature control and materials included with this kit. Repair a couple plastic panels and it has paid for itself:

Thanks, lots of useful information. Looks like the "Bondo" is what I will need for this job.

[piper6909]

Very impressive patch job!

[itsnotanova]

Looks good. FYI, these butt weld clamps come in handy for joining two pieces together with a butt weld and they're dirt cheap at Harbor Freight. https://www.harborfreight.com/butt-welding-clamps-8-pc-60545.html?cid=paid_google|||60545&utm_source=goog le&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_content=&gclid =CjwKCAjw_-D3BRBIEiwAjVMy7PHEKdqhNP9q3eMJs-6Triql6ylnMDMI6--3hQAhzAYN8yp1AyhMXBoCB0kQAvD_BwE

[78F350]

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

Looks good. FYI, these butt weld clamps come in handy for joining two pieces together with a butt weld and they're dirt cheap at Harbor Freight. ...

Those clamps look very useful and super inexpensive. I may have use for them again soon:

https://youtu.be/cbLXpMSgRDs

I couldn't help but pick up another project.

[BRAN]

Originally Posted by 78F350

Those clamps look very useful and super inexpensive. I may have use for them again soon:

https://youtu.be/cbLXpMSgRDs

I couldn't help but pick up another project.

I can totally understand that emergency.

[Qingdao]

Why is it that like every 914 is either dilapidated or AMAZING. I mean I haven't seen like a daily driver 914; maybe I'm too young.

[RedTele58]

Good man. Everyone needs a 914 project.

Here's mine.

[78F350]

Rick, I'm going to have to check out your 914 next time I get out there. I've got the pair of them home now and it looks like the black one is solid enough to rebuild. I joined 914World.com and I'm going through the PelicanParts forum; Lots of stuff to learn. It doesn't belong here at the 986Forum, so I've started a thread on GRM under my name AAZCD: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/build-projects-and-project-cars/learning-about-porsche-914s/174425/page1/#post3045604

The 914s as purchased:


Now, back to the Boxsters. THIS is sold and awaiting pick-up in a couple weeks. THAT has a few things that I still want to fix up before putting it for sale. I ended up doing almost a complete paint job in my garage to fix the old paint. Everything, but the clamshell and trunk lid. It was a 'quick and dirty' respray, but it's a big improvement over how it was. Pics later when I get the whole car ready.

[PaulE]

Excellent job on the Boxster rear quarter replacement! That yellow 914 looks like it had factory air conditioning, I think that was pretty rare. If you don't use that in your project, hope you can sell some a/c parts from it to recoup some money.

[78F350]

Time for an update...
I sold THIS in late July. It went to a good home and I'm looking forward to seeing how plans develop for some mods he has in mind.

Our text conversation went something like this:

Patrick, “Wait, am I buying This?”
Me, “Yes, it's This, not That.”
Patrick, “Oh man, I can't believe you're letting it go! I mean, I totally can believe that you are reducing the size of your stable, but THIS??”
Me, “It was a hard decision, but if two were going to go This and That were the best choice. Keeping just This or just That wouldn't be right. My plan is to keep the Other forever, Red will become This and the black one gets to be That.”
Patrick, “The black Challenge car?”
Me, “The black Challenge car for this year... not the black Challenge car from last year ...which will be the Challenge car for next year.”
Patrick, “Last years car getting the V8? This is a lot to keep up with.”
Me, “ Yes. This is actually pretty easy to keep up; That is the one that needs all the work.”

...Now I think he may get Florida tags for This and his 996, “That”.

THAT is ready to sell. It's not perfect and is not worth making perfect. At 150k miles it's a good daily driver car that can be improved, or driven reliably as it is. My daughter enjoyed it for a couple years, but drives a Cayenne now.
The last bit of paint work after replacing the quarter panel was getting the driver's door done. It had a big run/sag in the paint near the mirror and I had to sand it and do it over. It is much better now.





I had two codes causing a check engine light. P1126 cleared up after I found that the intake tube on the throttle body wasn't clamped tight. P0197 cleared after I replaced the oil temperature sensor. Replacing the temp sensor on a '99 wasn't as bad as I expected. I didn't have to unbolt the left intake runner.

Video: https://youtu.be/44xTIZyulcY

I've submitted the paperwork to transfer tags for my red '97 to be THIS and the black 2000 to be THAT. As long as there's enough Boxsters around, I might as well keep the names.

[78F350]

So, I listed THAT on Facebook marketplace for $4,000 being clear that it's a good driver, but not perfect. 4 hours later I had over 600 views and about 15 inquiries. A couple buyers seemed very serious, but my time availability is difficult this weekend. Pretty sure it is sold now, but waiting for Wednesday (day off) to close the deal.

[Qingdao]

Originally Posted by 78F350

So, I listed THAT on Facebook marketplace for $4,000 being clear that it's a good driver, but not perfect. 4 hours later I had over 600 views and about 15 inquiries. A couple buyers seemed very serious, but my time availability is difficult this weekend. Pretty sure it is sold now, but waiting for Wednesday (day off) to close the deal.

Someone is getting a deal


4k is what I paid for my wife's first 986... it was about the same condition, so I guess its normal. GLWS

[BruceH]

Love the text message - sounds like it could be a Seinfeld episode

[78F350]

THAT's buyer is coming this afternoon. I remembered that I had disabled the passenger side airbag for my grandson (disconnected and jumped with a resistor based on info from Rennlist). This morning I am swapping in some nicer (no cracks in the leather) seats and restoring the airbag function. ...plus found out that an H7 headlight bulb was out.
I never really had time to prep the car for sale until this morning.

[Homeoboxter]

Hope all went well with selling the car! I will have to do this mod on the airbag in my car too, once it runs. Do you happen to remember the value of the resistor?

[78F350]

Originally Posted by Homeoboxter

Hope all went well with selling the car! I will have to do this mod on the airbag in my car too, once it runs. Do you happen to remember the value of the resistor?

I think I used a 2.8 Ohm 1/4 watt. Various Porsche forums show from 2.2 - 3.2 Ohm works.
https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum/802831-boxster-986-air-bag-delete-pls-help.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/785847-passenger-airbag-connector.html#post10920866

[Homeoboxter]

Originally Posted by 78F350

I think I used a 2.8 Ohm 1/4 watt. Various Porsche forums show from 2.2 - 3.2 Ohm works.
https://rennlist.com/forums/boxster-and-boxster-s-986-forum/802831-boxster-986-air-bag-delete-pls-help.html

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/785847-passenger-airbag-connector.html#post10920866

Great, thanks for the info. I`m thinking of adding a switch to disable/enable the airbag on demand.