Woody's build thread - Page 10 - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

Smallblock454 · 07-11-2016, 08:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by itsnotanova

My theory is that the gasket maker I used to secure the crappy spacer gave enough space and cushion to allow vibration that worked the lug bolts loose. I also believe the aftermarket lug bolts that came with the spacers were not long enough.

Hello Woody,

first i think you had a lot of luck. No big damage to your car, to you or to other people.

I think you're absolutely right. From the pictures it looks like there is some kind of black stuff on the spacer - maybe this is the gasket maker?

It is extremely important that there is no paint, primer or anything else between disc, spacer and wheel. Only bare metal is allowed. Even rust should be removed and the fine lines on the wheel where the wheel fits to the brake disc should always be kept clean.

Overtorqued wheel lugs can also be a problem. There where a lot of very big crashes caused by overtorqued wheel lugs of non pro drivers on the Nürburgring in the last years.

Corvette looses rear wheel (lugs overtorqued): https://youtu.be/G-6S8lVBYno

My recommendation is to buy safety relevant parts always new. Wheel lugs, brake pads, break lines are for example parts i would always buy new. Even tyres – you never know what have happened to them before - even if they look good. A friend of mine went to a race track in june (Circuit de Spa-Francorchamps in Belgium). He had bought used track tyres that were mounted on the car, because he had no opportunity to transport a second tyre set. At 270 Km/h (approx 170 mph) the right rear tyre exploded. He is a good driver with a lot of race experience and there was no traffic on the Autobahn, so he could manage to get the car under control and stop it without any damage. He had really a lot of luck this day.

So safety always first.

Regards, Markus

Smallblock454 · 05-22-2016, 01:51 AM

Hello Woody,

looks very nice and i think it also sounds good. So we need a dyno and a drone test and than please let us know when the serial production starts.

Regards, Markus

itsnotanova · 05-25-2016, 05:41 AM

Can anyone see the embedded video?
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qN4zbWMhMMo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

TrumpyAl · 05-25-2016, 06:35 AM

This is what I see...

Smallblock454 · 05-25-2016, 06:39 AM

Hello Woody,

i think it sounds very good. Not too loud, but loud enough – like a Porsche should sound like.

Embedding seems not to work, but here are 2 links:
From the outside: https://youtu.be/qN4zbWMhMMo
From the inside: https://youtu.be/kxJ-JqeXzSw

Regards, Markus

steved0x · 05-25-2016, 07:05 AM

DRGETZ · 05-25-2016, 10:50 PM

Thanks for sharing your pics and education Woody.
Checked out the YouTubes and the exhaust sounds great inside and out.
Can't see the embedded video but the link works.
Attached a screen grab so you can see what I see...

Thanks again Woody for sharing your build.
Respectfully,
Mitchell

Smallblock454 · 05-26-2016, 12:47 AM

Hello Woody,

i have a question when looking at you pictures. How did you install the triangular plate below the transmission? Is that still possible with that exhaust system?

Regards, Markus

itsnotanova · 05-26-2016, 06:17 AM

Thanks guys for the compliments. I'm surprised at how well everything went together and performed. My butt dyno says there's a substantial increase in power from 1000-3000rpm and slight increase after that. The sound tone and level was exactly what I wanted. Like Markus said, not too loud but loud enough. You also can somewhat control the sound level if need be by not going above 2500rpm. Like if someone with red&blue lights is nearby and you don't want to cause attraction to yourself. It's not much louder than stock under 2500. The sound level inside is completely tolerable and there's no drone. You barely hear the muffler over the engine noise until 3500rpm. The aluminum belly pan fits with no problem. I would say there's about the same or more room than the factory system.

I have two problems that I need to work out though. The first is that it does seem to effect engine vibration more. I blame that more on the WEVO engine mount than the exhaust. The wevo mount really isn't meant for a street car and it was tolerable with the factory exhaust. I'm thinking because my exhaust is so stiff, it transfers more vibration into the chassis. I have a factory engine mount I'll be installing to see if that helps. The second issue I have is cosmetic. I'm not a huge fan of the 987 base tip. I was originally going to leave it off, but I put it on and it really improved the sound. It also sticks out about 3-4 inches too far. I would have to do some modifications to that area if I try to get it tucked more.

I highly recommend this system if you can. Not sure it would fit on a tiptronic though

professorman · 05-26-2016, 01:57 PM

Love the build. This was a very good read. Congratulations on putting this together.

itsnotanova · 06-05-2016, 03:50 PM

I bought this wevo mount from a fellow member at a good price. I thought I would like it but ended up going back to a stock engine mount. The vibration was tolerable but strangely it was the noise it created that I couldn't live with. It made the engine sound like it was having a bad vibration or missing. It was unnerving. I replaced it and it really quieted the engine noise down inside the cabin. I also didn't notice any difference in performance between the two

Smallblock454 · 06-06-2016, 07:59 AM

@ steved0x

I think Woody knows what he is doing.

@ itsnotanova

Not the first report of a Wevo engine mount doing not what it is supposed to do.

I would always recommend the OEM or after market OEM engine mounts. Where the original engine mounts do have a color system like the color dot schemes on springs, which show what dampening factor they have. See also: Changed Motor Mount @ 95k

Regards, Markus

Regards, Markus

steved0x · 06-06-2016, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smallblock454

@ steved0x

I think Woody knows what he is doing.

@ itsnotanova

Not the first report of a Wevo engine mount doing not what it is supposed to do.

I would always recommend the OEM or after market OEM engine mounts. Where the original engine mounts do have a color system like the color dot schemes on springs, which show what dampening factor they have. See also: Changed Motor Mount @ 95k

Regards, Markus

Regards, Markus

I'm not sure, look how far off that swaybar is.... Just kidding

I am giving him a hard time

grc0456 · 07-03-2016, 05:15 PM

Nice! I agree, AX is a hoot. I had to go out and buy my own helmet for my 3rd time coming up on the 24th. I am running on street all season Conti's, stock 2.7 engine and suspension - and I don't care. It's soooo fun.

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grc0456 · 07-10-2016, 07:57 AM

Sorry, man. But you totally just prompted me to check mine after I had the wheels off for caliper painting last weekend.

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BruceH · 07-10-2016, 08:38 AM

Sorry to hear of your misfortune, it could have been much worse. This is a good reminder to check the torque on each lug nut on a regular basis. Thank you for sharing. The aftermarket wheels look great on your car IMO. I'm not a fan of 19's for ride quality alone as you found out. I went from stock 17's to 18's but the ride did not suffer with Michelin Pilot Sports.

jcslocum · 07-10-2016, 01:01 PM

Woody, the issue was most definitely the goo you put between the spacer and the hub. Lug bolts do not really stretch much when tightened and depend quite a bit on the friction between the head and the wheel for staying tight. Once the good dried and then began getting squished more by the loading of the wheel the space it was taking up and the bolts were loose. You're lucky there was nothing more that happened!!

I did design work for Cat on the D11 dozer tracks when it was a new machine. The plates (grouser plates) for the tracks are bolted on. We did lots of testing to determine the proper torque value for the special bolts used to hold the grousers on. We determined that 4500 Ft Lbs was the right amount and did lots of testing to make sure they would stay in place and could be taken off easily when service was required. Well, they were supposed to mount the grousers on the assembly line and then paint the assembly. Well they changed that to paint the undercarriage and the grouosers before mounting them. Well, the first D11 to get to the field with these tracks fell apart in about an hour. That got the scramin call that out design and tools were NFG and we must fix this immediately. Well this was not so esy to do as the PAINT was the thing creating the problem. Once the paint wore away, the bolts were loose and fell out.

Nine8Six · 07-10-2016, 02:45 PM

This stinks if you ask me Woody

Let's have a look at the lugs, found them?

The OD or ID threads out of 4 should be stripped (either lug or hub side). You see, the chance that this happen (all 5 coming "loose") is 1 in a trillion. If you can't find damage on any of the threads themselves, my advice to you Woody is call your nearest trusted police rep :/

That's 7~8 threads (times 5 = 38threads). Given the amount of rust and debris in there + weights I'd say chances are more than a trillion lollll Its a LOW speed wheel (1,200 RPM max?)

Never seen that or heard anything like it.

Forgot to renew you unofficial corporate protection tax, perhaps?! Are you cheating your wife man???

(ps thanks god u r okay bud)

silver-S · 07-10-2016, 05:26 PM

I assume you were required to follow all the PCR safety inspections and test your lug nut torque at the autocross, right? If not, your region's AX people are being negligent in the safety department. And so were you. This is nothing personal against them -- I get the impression that laxity in AX safety inspections is pretty common. And then the people running get complacent and ... uh oh.

I keep a Harbor Freight torque wrench and deep socket in my AX box and use it religiously. Cost of the tools was under $20 (on sale) and even if the numbers are 5% inaccurate, it's still a worthwhile investment, IMO. And your experience makes me think I should be checking my lug nuts AFTER running autocross, as well.

But if you DID check the torque at the AX and they still came off, clearly some of those parts you were using should have been sent to the recyclers.

itsnotanova · 07-11-2016, 05:00 AM

Thanks for your concerns. My wife was making fun of me for days after it happen because I was walking around with my head down about it. Now I look at the situation as a blessing. Things could have gone so much worse than they did but all that really happen was I was out of about $300. I'm bringing it up now because I've been changing wheels and never explained on this thread why I changed from the black wheels. Silver-S, The wheel falling off happen before the auto-cross event. Not like the inspection for the practice event was very thorough though. They basically looked at my car for one second and stamped it good. By that time I had already been ultra paranoid about the lug bolts even if they had checked them. Now I'm checking them like every 100 miles. I've been driving around with a fire extinguisher and torque wrench on the passenger side. Fred, I'm guessing three of the lug bolts had already come out and there were only two holding the wheel on when I went for a spin that day. I think I found the last bolt to come off and it had stripped maybe 8mm from the hub as it came out. I didn't go looking for the other bolts

I weighed the rear wheels of all my wheels with tires.
The factory 987 17 inch wheel/tire 45#
The black knock off 18 inch wheel/tire 55#
The arena red knock off 19 inch wheel/tire 60#