grinding going into 1st, 2nd and R...more also...

[Bavarian Motorist]

1. When I go into 1st, 2nd and reverse, it's not only very difficult and requires a lot of force to move the shifter, but there is a grinding feel/noise doing it. Every other gear is as smooth as butter.


2. When clutch is FULLY DEPRESSED in, at a stop, and the shifter is in R or 1st, there is a vibrating noise from the engine as if it is trying to engage the transmission. I don't believe it's supposed to be doing that when the clutch is depressed. It's as if the clutch isn't actually disengaging the transmission.

When moved to N, it stops entirely.


3. When moving in 1st, 2nd or R and I attempt to move the shifter into N from any of those positions, it is VERY DIFFICULT to do, and if I do manage it, there is a VERY LOUD grinding noise between the gear position and the N position.





Are all of these problems related? Does anyone know what they could be?


I brought her in yesterday. Hopefully will hear back Monday.


So now I'm stuck driving a camry.

[dapper_boxster]

great question

[ohioboxster]

Sounds like it needs a clutch to me.

[Bavarian Motorist]

Originally Posted by ohioboxster

Sounds like it needs a clutch to me.

I was afraid of that.


My hard driving has caught up to me.

[ohioboxster]

How many miles are on it now? Its a lease isnt it?

[Bavarian Motorist]

Originally Posted by ohioboxster

How many miles are on it now? Its a lease isnt it?

Leased.


Just under 6k. About 5950.


This was my first car I've owned w/ a manual tranny. Could be that or that I tried to teach my friend how to drive it...


One of the techs before told me the clutch isn't covered under warranty. Any truth to this?

[RandallNeighbour]

That's right... the clutch is a wear item like the brakes and tires.

Man, that's not many miles for a clutch if it is indeed the problem! If the dealer tells you that's what it is, consider telling them to give you the car back without replacing it.

Then buy the parts from Sunset and get a reputable independent mechanic to put it in. This will not void your warranty, but it may save you as much as a grand.

The problem is that on our cars, they have to drop the tranny to change the clutch. It's 8+ hours on the repair.

[eslai]

Doesn't sound like typical clutch wear though. Sounds like your clutch release fork, hydraulics or something else are damaged.

Could be due to abuse, could be due to defective parts. If it's the former, it's your fault. If it's the latter, it should be covered under warranty.

Either way, time for a trip to the dealer. Make them show you the flywheel if they try to blame you for driving like a hooligan. Look for cracks, heat marks, etc. If the disk looks normal, they really won't have much to blame you for.

edit: 5000 miles eh? Never mind about the flywheel--it's not going to show much wear. I bet they'll find something broken that is suspicious, in that it could be blamed on the driver, but isn't 100% concrete. They'll probably do a "good will" replacement of the part, but warn you that if it happens again you'll be in Trouble.

Let's see how close I am.

[Bavarian Motorist]

Thanks everyone. We'll soon find out.


I lost my credit card now. When it rains it pours...

[986 Girl]

As just a general statement.... you should always only let people learn how to drive manual on a clutch you do not care about. I've taught a number of people how to stick shift, and let me tell you... they can very easily cost you a new one.

Best of luck!

[Bavarian Motorist]

First off, I got her back today, and WOW she feels BRAND NEW. In fact, I don't even remember her feeling like this new.


They said some bolts were loose in the clutch line or something and it was fixed under warranty.


OK, I have a question --


My car has always had a low clutch engagement point. Very low actually (made it easy to drive to be honest). I have been test driving cars a lot lately and I've had trouble driving them because their clutch release points are so high.


Now that I got my car back, it feels as smooth as new, but also, the clutch engagement point is VERY high now! I honestly thought something was wrong w/ my car at first.


What can be the cause of this? Not that something is wrong now, but what can be different now?

[eslai]

Interesting. doesn't bode well that your car was delivered with strange clutch line issues. Sounds like "whatever it was" was screwed up from the get-go.

Document it. Something could go wrong later that would point to this problem as a fault. Can you give us the exact description of the failure and what they did to fix it?

The clutch point on Boxsters is very high in my opinion. I hate it. I'd rather it was low down by the firewall like every other car I've ever driven.

[Bavarian Motorist]

Certainly.



"A. CUSTOMER STATES CAR IS VERY DIFFICULT TO MOVE INTO FIRST SECOND AND REVERSE PUT INTO NEUTRAL LOUD GRINDING NOISE"



CAUSE: LOOSE CLUTCH BOLTS


(lists a bunch of things, including r&r transmission, exhaust sealing met., locking nut 8m, remove and install clutch eng/trans)




VERIFIED HARD SHIFTING R&R EXHAUST, R&R TRANS, REMOVE CLUTCH AND INSPECT, CLUTCH DISC AND PRESSURE PLATE OK, FOUND BOLTS TO CLUTCH BACKED OUT VERY LOOSE REPLACE ALL ORIGINAL PARTS ALL OK




B. CUSTOMER STATES CLUTCH ENGAGED IN GEAR RPM'S REV AND CAR SHAKES, PUT INTO NEUTRAL SHAKING STOPS


DONE SEE LINE A FOR REPAIRS







Thanks guys

[RandallNeighbour]

Bavarian, my mechanic told me that he could adjust the clutch release point if I found it to be too high or too low (after I had my clutch replaced last year). So, I would imagine the dealership can adjust this for you as well, and probably do it at no charge since they just messed with your car and its different now.

[Bavarian Motorist]

Oh, really? That's great.


This wouldn't have any negative effect on performance or anything, would it?

[eslai]

So, some moron at the factory didn't torque down your pressure plate (or what not, I don't know how the porsche dual-plate thing goes back together). That's... that's....fantastic.

Well, hopefully it's all taken care of now. If it had been me, I would have wanted to see the thing taken apart. I can't imagine 5000 miles like that not causing a problem. I'd have wanted a new clutch, or at least picture proof that the one they reinstalled was still "fine".

But if you don't know what to look at, it wouldn't help to see pictures so I guess you have to trust them. Irksome.

As to clutch pedal engagement point adjustment, my dealership told me that there wasn't a way to do that on these cars. I didn't really believe him, but I never bothered to look into it.

Any confirmation from anyone about this on a 987?

[Bavarian Motorist]

Thanks, eslai.


This is the 3rd time I've brought her in for transmission related problems. Twice they had to fix something.


Maybe If I drive like an ass for the next 5k miles something major will mess up and I will get to drive off in a new S model

[eslai]

If it makes you feel any better, they've replaced my tranny twice for a problem where it would pop out of second gear when coasting.

[Bavarian Motorist]

Originally Posted by eslai

If it makes you feel any better, they've replaced my tranny twice for a problem where it would pop out of second gear when coasting.

It doesn't bug me really. As long as they fix it.


I am having a real hrd time getting used to this new clutch engagement point.


I don't wanna blip the throttle too far before that point because I'm afraid that will damage the transmission, but it's hard to train myself to wait that split second longer for it

[wvicary]

This is a known problem with the early production Cayman..... pressure plate bolts assembled with the incorrect torque. I've only heard of a few Boxsters with this problem and no idea as how to change the release/engagement point of the clutch pedal.