Ohlins R&T Set up Question

[bcrdukes]

Muskoka Minute,

At one point in time, I considered the Ohlins R&T and wanted the full meal deal with camber plates and all. In the end, I ended up getting the Koni Special Active shocks lowered on H&R sport springs. I am running a set of Vorshlag Motorsports adjustable camber and caster plates up front.

After dialing in a semi-street/track alignment with our mutual shop in town (you know which one I am talking about) and after driving around for a bit, I felt that it was too aggressive and absolutely unnecessary. To be fair, they did caution me, and I knew what I was getting myself into as the original plan was to hit the track with the regional PCA club, then COVID lockdowns happened so that never materialized.

I went back to a much more milder street setting and quite happy with it. If your car is only going to be for the street, lowering it may not be all the bees knees as its made out to be. My biggest regret was lowering the car - the car scrapes on parking lot speed bumps here in the city. Otherwise, I'm enjoying the car.

[Muskoka Minute]

Originally Posted by bcrdukes

Muskoka Minute,

At one point in time, I considered the Ohlins R&T and wanted the full meal deal with camber plates and all. In the end, I ended up getting the Koni Special Active shocks lowered on H&R sport springs. I am running a set of Vorshlag Motorsports adjustable camber and caster plates up front.

After dialing in a semi-street/track alignment with our mutual shop in town (you know which one I am talking about) and after driving around for a bit, I felt that it was too aggressive and absolutely unnecessary. To be fair, they did caution me, and I knew what I was getting myself into as the original plan was to hit the track with the regional PCA club, then COVID lockdowns happened so that never materialized.

I went back to a much more milder street setting and quite happy with it. If your car is only going to be for the street, lowering it may not be all the bees knees as its made out to be. My biggest regret was lowering the car - the car scrapes on parking lot speed bumps here in the city. Otherwise, I'm enjoying the car.

Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it.

So as of right now you are running a mild street set up with the car being lowered with the Koni's & springs.

How much did you end up lowering the car?
I think the Ohlins lower the car by approx 24mm
Do you know what the specs are for the current set up you have.
(If not I wonder if our mutual friends would have it on record)
What made you shy away from the Ohlins besides the price.

Appreciate any further input you can share.

Cheers! Bart

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by Muskoka Minute

(If not I wonder if our mutual friends would have it on record) Cheers! Bart

Muskota, with roughly 1" drop and the adjustable rear toe links you should be able to get close to the OEM specs on the rear (1.5mm toe and between -1.5 to -2 degrees of camber), on the front you should not have any issues..
and your car will look really nice :-)

[bcrdukes]

Originally Posted by Muskoka Minute

Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it.

So as of right now you are running a mild street set up with the car being lowered with the Koni's & springs.

How much did you end up lowering the car?
I think the Ohlins lower the car by approx 24mm
Do you know what the specs are for the current set up you have.
(If not I wonder if our mutual friends would have it on record)
What made you shy away from the Ohlins besides the price.

Appreciate any further input you can share.

Cheers! Bart

Hi Bart,

The H&R Springs I'm running are a 1" drop as per their specifications. I've seen a few Boxsters in the city that are likely 2"+ dropped and scrape when going over speed bumps to getting in to shopping plazas. Even with a 1" drop, certain speed bumps will result in a scrape of the underbody. Wasn't worth the heartache in my personal opinion.

I ended up going to Brett Hunter at Hunter Motorsports for the final alignment because he was available next day to slot me on to his schedule. Our mutual friend was 3+ weeks out and I didn't want to wait.

I'll post my specs and his notes, where the values are as follows:

Front Left / Front Right
Camber: -1.81 / -1.85
Toe: 0.02 / 0.01

Rear Left / Front Right
Camber: -2.50 / -2.50
Toe: 0.13 / 0.14

Notes on the alignment left by Brett: 986/987 call for more negative camber in the rear than the front. This alignment reflects that.

Due to limitations of factory adjustment, the rear is as close as possible to factory settings. The car cannot have less negative camber, and toe can not be closer to perfect (0.09.) Toe front and rear is within spec.

Previously, I was running some specs that some of the guys here on the forum known for tracking their cars heavily and it was too much for the street in my opinion. -2.5 camber in front and -1.9 in back, zero toe front and .016 degree total toe in rear. Unless this was a dedicated track car running high speeds, I would never do this on the street again.

As for the Ohlins, ultimately it was the price, and if I was going to commit to the Ohlins, I wanted the full meal deal, which meant a lot of expensive parts and labour, it was going to be a point of diminishing returns.

There are days where I wish I had the Ohlins, but I still am very happy with my Koni FSD setup. I just got a software tune on it and it's scary fast now.

[Muskoka Minute]

Originally Posted by bcrdukes

Hi Bart,

The H&R Springs I'm running are a 1" drop as per their specifications. I've seen a few Boxsters in the city that are likely 2"+ dropped and scrape when going over speed bumps to getting in to shopping plazas. Even with a 1" drop, certain speed bumps will result in a scrape of the underbody. Wasn't worth the heartache in my personal opinion.

I ended up going to Brett Hunter at Hunter Motorsports for the final alignment because he was available next day to slot me on to his schedule. Our mutual friend was 3+ weeks out and I didn't want to wait.

I'll post my specs and his notes, where the values are as follows:

Front Left / Front Right
Camber: -1.81 / -1.85
Toe: 0.02 / 0.01

Rear Left / Front Right
Camber: -2.50 / -2.50
Toe: 0.13 / 0.14

Notes on the alignment left by Brett: 986/987 call for more negative camber in the rear than the front. This alignment reflects that.

Due to limitations of factory adjustment, the rear is as close as possible to factory settings. The car cannot have less negative camber, and toe can not be closer to perfect (0.09.) Toe front and rear is within spec.

Previously, I was running some specs that some of the guys here on the forum known for tracking their cars heavily and it was too much for the street in my opinion. -2.5 camber in front and -1.9 in back, zero toe front and .016 degree total toe in rear. Unless this was a dedicated track car running high speeds, I would never do this on the street again.

As for the Ohlins, ultimately it was the price, and if I was going to commit to the Ohlins, I wanted the full meal deal, which meant a lot of expensive parts and labour, it was going to be a point of diminishing returns.

There are days where I wish I had the Ohlins, but I still am very happy with my Koni FSD setup. I just got a software tune on it and it's scary fast now.

Thanks much for that.

So is your car still lowered the 1" or did you raise it back up?

When did you decide to go with the tune? did our friend do it or did you do it yourself ?

Appreciate your help..