tie rod ends for 986

[Quadcammer]

the tool is like $40 at harbor freight and with it, replacing the inner takes roughly 20 minutes and its a piece of cake.

[kk2002s]

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

the tool is like $40 at harbor freight and with it, replacing the inner takes roughly 20 minutes and its a piece of cake.

+1 that is what I did as well and it was easy peasy. I don't think the inners really wear out so much but
they are cheap and since you are in there....
There are methods to using regular tools but I like the fact that with the tool you can properly torque the inner tie rod
I'm waiting for the day I can reuse the tool

[pilot4fn]

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

the tool is like $40 at harbor freight and with it, replacing the inner takes roughly 20 minutes and its a piece of cake.

Could you post a link or picture for the tool you used? I'll try to source similar tool here in Europe.

[Gilles]

Pilot, I used one like this one, and turned out to be an easy job..

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/21818/140135-volvo-inner-tie-rod-tool-cta-4014
.

[pilot4fn]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Pilot, I used one like this one, and turned out to be an easy job..

https://www.ipdusa.com/products/21818/140135-volvo-inner-tie-rod-tool-cta-4014
.

Fantastic, thank you Gilles!

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by pilot4fn

Could you post a link or picture for the tool you used? I'll try to source a similar tool here in Europe.

this is the one you want; beautiful tool, a little more expensive and worth every dime. The HF tool doesn't fit perfect and is cheap all around. considering it will be years, if ever before I do another tie rod, I left this up at my local shop for them to use. They were using the HF tool for the occasional inner tie rod. Rave reviews, enough cannot be said for a tool that is well designed.

you need to google for "OEM Tools 27178 - Master Tie Rod Tool" since the url will get blocked by our hosts.

and the hardest part of the inner tie rods is replacing the little boots. Do a little research and find the offset boot clamp pliers that crimp the clamp, (Lisle model 30600) they are about 15 bucks and you will never use them for anything else, but they work. I gave up the first time I did tie rods and just used stainless zip ties until I got these for the latest task.

[pilot4fn]

Originally Posted by tonythetiger

this is the one you want; beautiful tool, a little more expensive and worth every dime. The HF tool doesn't fit perfect and is cheap all around. considering it will be years, if ever before I do another tie rod, I left this up at my local shop for them to use. They were using the HF tool for the occasional inner tie rod. Rave reviews, enough cannot be said for a tool that is well designed.

you need to google for "OEM Tools 27178 - Master Tie Rod Tool" since the url will get blocked by our hosts.

and the hardest part of the inner tie rods is replacing the little boots. Do a little research and find the offset boot clamp pliers that crimp the clamp, (Lisle model 30600) they are about 15 bucks and you will never use them for anything else, but they work. I gave up the first time I did tie rods and just used stainless zip ties until I got these for the latest task.

Thanks for these tool infos. Is the offset clamp tools something that can be used also on the driveshaft boots installation if I end up rebuilding the driveshafts?

[tonythetiger]

Originally Posted by pilot4fn

Thanks for these tool infos. Is the offset clamp tools something that can be used also on the driveshaft boots installation if I end up rebuilding the driveshafts?

I didn't need it, and I didn't rebuild, I replaced using FEQ (chinese) axles. Never had any problem with them. The caveat with this is they are overpacked with grease, so you need to do a little cleanup 2k or 3K after installation and where they bolt to the transaxle, make sure the bolts are clean of grease, (sometimes they get coated when you push them through the holes) the transaxle bolt holes are clean of grease, you use Loctite on the threads and you torque them (39Nm?) properly. MAKE SURE, cannot stress this enough. You can search the forums for others that give this advice, and those that didn't heed it. Do it right or they will come loose, imagine what happens then, you heard?

[pilot4fn]

Originally Posted by tonythetiger

I didn't need it, and I didn't rebuild, I replaced using FEQ (chinese) axles. Never had any problem with them. The caveat with this is they are overpacked with grease, so you need to do a little cleanup 2k or 3K after installation and where they bolt to the transaxle, make sure the bolts are clean of grease, (sometimes they get coated when you push them through the holes) the transaxle bolt holes are clean of grease, you use Loctite on the threads and you torque them (20Nm?) properly. MAKE SURE, cannot stress this enough. You can search the forums for others that give this advice, and those that didn't heed it. Do it right or they will come loose, imagine what happens then, you heard?

Yes, good points. I have seen the posts when you swapped the FEQ drivesgafts. Mine are not in need of replacement /re-lube just yet - just planning ahead and not certain which way to go.