Is 3.2 m96 plastic oil baffle stock?

[Geof3]

Changing to the “Motorsport” baffle (x-51 I believe) is fairly simple. When I dropped my pan, one of the oil flap keeper tabs had sheered off at some point. So knowing that the doors are hinged and solid on the upgraded baffle is a tiny piece of mind. I did the baffle offered by Pelican, it isn’t the Porsche baffle. It comes with all the stuff to install, new bolts, proper pan sealant etc. I also did the oil pump update as well.

[Oldcarguy]

Originally Posted by Geof3

Changing to the “Motorsport” baffle (x-51 I believe) is fairly simple. When I dropped my pan, one of the oil flap keeper tabs had sheered off at some point. So knowing that the doors are hinged and solid on the upgraded baffle is a tiny piece of mind. I did the baffle offered by Pelican, it isn’t the Porsche baffle. It comes with all the stuff to install, new bolts, proper pan sealant etc. I also did the oil pump update as well.

Thanks Geof. I checked Pelican yesterday. They have the LN baffle, .5 quart kit and oil intake extension. I think I’m going to order these directly from LN or Pelican today depending on who has the best price overall. I have 108k miles on the car so I imagine the plastic baffle has about had it anyway. In any case, it’ll bring some additional piece of mind.

[Oldcarguy]

Just ordered the .5qt sump extension, oil pickup extension and x51 type baffle from LN on their Black Friday sale. Along with my new AOS installed last winter I should be good to go.

[Racer Boy]

Originally Posted by Oldcarguy

Thanks Geof. I checked Pelican yesterday. They have the LN baffle, .5 quart kit and oil intake extension. I think I’m going to order these directly from LN or Pelican today depending on who has the best price overall. I have 108k miles on the car so I imagine the plastic baffle has about had it anyway. In any case, it’ll bring some additional piece of mind.

I installed those parts in my 2002 when I was having a problem with gigantic smoke bombs under braking and in left hand turns at the track. (It didn't fix the problem, BTW. It was the passenger side scavenging pump that had been improperly indexed when the valve cover gaskets had been replaced). It is a straight-forward process to replace the parts, other than possibly having to do some trimming so the baffle fits correctly. Be cautious installing the new sump bolts, I half-stripped one. Fortunately, it doesn't leak.

I found that at 150,000 miles, my plastic baffle was in perfect shape, so YMMV.

[Oldcarguy]

Originally Posted by Racer Boy

. . . Be cautious installing the new sump bolts, I half-stripped one. Fortunately, it doesn't leak. . .

Will do, I have both inch/lbs and low ft/lbs torque wrenches. I’ll be sure to use them.

[Geof3]

Originally Posted by Oldcarguy

Thanks Geof. I checked Pelican yesterday. They have the LN baffle, .5 quart kit and oil intake extension. I think I’m going to order these directly from LN or Pelican today depending on who has the best price overall. I have 108k miles on the car so I imagine the plastic baffle has about had it anyway. In any case, it’ll bring some additional piece of mind.

One thing to note is, when installing it is a tight fit due to the better seals around the baffle. It has to go in dead on the money, it’s doesn’t leave any play at all. It will seem too tight, but it does fit...

[Oldcarguy]

Originally Posted by Geof3

One thing to note is, when installing it is a tight fit due to the better seals around the baffle. It has to go in dead on the money, it’s doesn’t leave any play at all. It will seem too tight, but it does fit...

Thanks, noted. Also, I’ll do test fitting as Quadcammer recommended prior to applying the gasket goop.

[husker boxster]

I bought an EBS and it needed some "adjusting" too.

[Oldcarguy]

Originally Posted by husker boxster

I bought an EBS and it needed some "adjusting" too.

IIRC thstone has a thread indicating the same, so I’m anticipating a ‘custom fitting’ session.

[Gilles]

Ok, I wanted to add a tip to all the good advise you already got..

If you cut off the head off 3-4 extra bolts (now studs..), you can use them to align the oil pan with the engine block during the final installation, this way you will not be making a mess with the sealant by moving the cover around.

If you cut a slot on the headless bolt (with a dremel tool), you can use a small flat screw driver to remove them from the engine and replace them with the correct bolt for final torque.

Hopefully my explanation makes sense, good luck!