Seal removal on Dual Row IMSB

[Mig]

Originally Posted by Troutman

I don't think you're going to replace that bearing regularly are you? It's not a set of brake pads.

For instance my 2.7 has circa 80k on it and it's 19 years old..still on the original bearing and clutch/flywheel, I know this because I have a FPSH from the PO. RMS was changed in 2000 under warranty.
Changing the bearing is not something to be taken lightly, it's a big expensive job and it can cause other problems bashing a new bearing into that precision part called an IMS.

On a car that's worth £5k I'm struggling to justify replacing what appears (and I know what that means) to be a perfectly good bearing with another product for £700 and the risk entailed with removing the old one and fitting the new one. Remember..these engines were not designed to have that bearing replaced.ever!
These bearings didn't fail very often (mine is 1%) and something else caused them to fail, lack of grease and no oil or misalignment, could be an unbalanced IMS, who knows!
No matter what I do, I can't win (unless I keep the car for another 10 years and it doesn't fail and I save £700.. big deal!)

Thanks for the help anyway.Much appreciated.

Replacing the bearing with just another bearing doesn't fix the underlying issue of the grease in the bearing being washed away by the engine oil.

Yes, I will be replacing,mine on a regular basis. Plan is to replace it next summer. I do my own work and won't be bashing in the new bearing. (I've seen some of those videos on YouTube).

Yes, these engines weren't designed to have the bearing replaced, but that doesn't mean that it can't be done safely.

If you don't want to replace the bearing regularly, then I believe you need to invest in a solution whereby the bearing is fed by oil (DOF, EPS, or LN Solution).

[Boxstard]

Originally Posted by Mig

Replacing the bearing with just another bearing doesn't fix the underlying issue of the grease in the bearing being washed away by the engine oil.

Yes, I will be replacing,mine on a regular basis. Plan is to replace it next summer. I do my own work and won't be bashing in the new bearing. (I've seen some of those videos on YouTube).

Yes, these engines weren't designed to have the bearing replaced, but that doesn't mean that it can't be done safely.

If you don't want to replace the bearing regularly, then I believe you need to invest in a solution whereby the bearing is fed by oil (DOF, EPS, or LN Solution).

When oil can wash away grease in the bearing, it can also lube the bearing. I know that oil can get inside the IMS hollow shaft. With fresh oil and 'thoughtful' driving (keep rev higher, avoid condensation/ fuel contaminants in oil from short distance driving without engine fully warmed up, etc.), bearing can still be reasonably lubed without grease. My thought anyway...

It's more of a design issue of the single row bearing, which may be replaced regularly... but I would not do so with the dual row bearing. Rather than spending money on bearings, my contingency would rather be a whole replacement engine.

[Troutman]

Lots of new parts arrived today including the clutch, DMF and these...



and unboxed...



Thought I would fit a new thermostat while it was off and the coolant drained, went for the low temp one.

I put the new RMS in but it went from 10mm to 15mm its one slight tap so it's got to come out and a new one put in a bit more carefully this time.
Trying to find some pipe with a 56mm OD to pull the old (but perfect) IMS bearing out.
As I said before the kit I bought was rubbish, nothing worked..found out it was all from the Far East.

[Troutman]

I ordered a new IMS tool kit from Design 911 in Essex. 2 days later it arrived, they had sent the wrong one but quickly dispatched another correct one which was the only one they stock, the EPS tool kit not LN( which the bearing is ...from them!)
They stock all the tool kits from LN but not the Retrofit one.

Anyway it appeared to me the kit had been used already which I am discussing with them now..nothing wrong with that..it just shouldn't be full price (£200).
Bearing came out easily enough, there was lots of black oil behind it but it appears to be very solid , no play at all, and quite stiff to turn. By this I mean if you hold it by the centre bolt and try to spin it, it won't. It does turn but you have to do it, it doesn't roll at all but it's smooth. The outer seal is very hard to remove, it's in very good condition.
Here it is



You can see old grease still coming out at 11)clock position.



I am getting a RMS tool made up from plastic by the same chap who made my exhaust stud drill guides, this will ensure it's 13mm and dead square.
All these tools will be available for hire (in the UK) when I've finished this.

It's quite amazing to think that the whole IMS, chains etc are all supported at the flywheel end by that tiny centre bolt. There must be some force from the cams that the bolt has to deal with.