Boxster 986 frost issues

[DaveBBOXSTER]

My Boxster 986 in the frost often has frost on inside screen plus hood and drips water

BUT today I put key in ignition and the car wipers were on plus would not switch off and the heated door mirrors were on...STRANGELY they both were not turned on by myself. The only way the wipers could be stopped was to pull out fuse...and the heated mirrors wouldn't turn off and taking fuse out didn't stop the light being on, in the switch itself in dash; even with no key in car the light is still on but the glass in mirrors isn't warm!
Tried to get dash switch out but couldn't as the fear of breaking rear wiring clip worried me.
I guess this is an electrical fault or issue related to water in the car?

ANY IDEAS WHAT TO TRY Please?

[Paul]

Check for water under your seats, could be a wet CLU.

[rick3000]

Does your 986 have a rain sensor? I would so check the ignition switch, which can cause odd electrical issues, in addition to the immobilizer under the driver's seat as Paul suggested.

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Thank you Paul
- I did have a flooded CLU under the passenger seat (it's a UK car) a few years ago (as a bad split in the plastic roof screen let in water and the whole of the floor on the N/Side was in water)...had to remove seat and carpet and dry it all out...I have felt under there but seems dry.
Thank you Rick
- not sure if my 2000 year 986 has a rain sensor; I'd guess not as it's not listed as an option code in the spec. Not checked ignition switch for signs of damp...should I spray it with WD40 or open it up to dry it out?
What is funny (NOT REALLY) is the "on" light staying on the mirror heater switch EVEN with no ignition on and it staying lit EVEN with the fuse removed...Just makes no sense to me.

[DaveBBOXSTER]

UPDATE - Just gone out to check if light on mirror heater switch was still on. Looked in the light was off...
Tried to open drivers door (very gently) and the door glass stuck / didn't drop slightly (as it should) so I didn't force door open BUT the mirror heater light instantly came on! I pushed the door back an inch or so to shut it and light mirror switch stayed on...

[particlewave]

Sounds like your CLU/immobilizer is failing, possibly due to previous water damage (though, with the frost inside, you almost certainly have water intrusion right now).

Start by replacing the ignition switch. They are cheap (less than $20), so just replace it rather than messing with it. If the switch doesn't fix your issues, pull out the CLU, open it and inspect for corrosion or mineral deposits (especially on the connectors and pins).

I'm 95% sure this is going to be a damaged CLU.

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Thanks particlewave,
Yes you may be right that the CLU is at fault...although the CLU and all around it is very dry and I even put a fan heater into car interior this morning and dried the whole interior area and took it for a 10 mile drive to heat it all up it drives as great as ever. BUT the heated mirrors are on when the car is running and the wipers would stay on (regardless of the switch position) so had to leave 25 Amp fuse out.
BUT a new symptom was found in that the radio worked but cut off after say 10 minutes with 4 loud beeps (as if to warn me or say it was stopping - never ever had that before) Kept putting it on about four times to check this fault had not gone.

I am reluctant to change the ignition switch and confused about needing a new set of keys or even how to get it out. I don't understand how it could be faulty if the car starts and runs OK? But I would rather it be that than the CLU they are £600 new from Porsche in UK also I looked at second hand ones when the thing was flooded before and it needs to be set up with the keys at Porsche...

[78F350]

Originally Posted by DaveBBOXSTER

... I am reluctant to change the ignition switch and confused about needing a new set of keys or even how to get it out. I don't understand how it could be faulty if the car starts and runs OK?...

You don't have to do anything with the keys. The switch that goes bad is not the part the key goes in. It's the other end inside the dash. Review this article: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Boxster_Tech/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch/86-ELEC-Ignition_Switch.htm
...and search the many write-ups that we have had on the forum for tips.

[barkinfool]

Symptoms sound like it is the ignition switch & not the ECU (which would be much more costly). Take your time & you'll be able to change the switch - it is definitely a common failure & something anybody can fix! Good luck & let us know if that solves the problem.

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Thanks for the last two replies - much appreciated. I did look up on here about the ignition switch and seems a good fix to try first as it is cheaper...
Will heed your advice and try that and report back.

[mikefocke]

And after you have this issue resolved, consider an outside car cover given your climate. I've had significant ice or as much as a half meter of snow on my car cover and when I clear off the ice/snow and remove the cover the top/roof and everything inside the car is pristine.

Do you treat the roof with raggtop or something similar?

[DaveBBOXSTER]

UPDATE - Took off ignition switch yesterday...Spent over an hour attempting to get at the two grub screws from under the dash with no success. It turns out the UK spec Boxster, being RH drive, has the screws in a position that they cannot be seen or felt from under the dash. Eventually took off the RH side vent cover (with the light switch below) and could at least see the grub screws from above, BUT they were coated in a red blob of something (Loctite or sealer) and the slots were hidden too...after gently scrapping it off I released them just enough to get switch out NEVER EVER TAKE THESE OUT FULLY NO NEED - Even working from above with one hand in vent hole of dash it took 15 minutes, as access is really tight!
Managed to break the plastic side air vent catch getting the vent cover out it caught or I was too careless. Did a bodge repair by drilling the flap where the little plastic ball should be and inserted a small screw plus spacer nut so it opens and shuts until I can get a new cover. I may leave it until it fails, as it's not visible.
Fitted new switch today (£15) and the wipers now work via the stick and the radio stays on BUT the heated mirrors stay on and cannot stop them via their switch or by taking the 5Amp fuse out! HOW CAN THEY CONTINUE TO WORKWITH NO FUSE IN?

This shows switch


Bodge fix repair to vent flap
View through vent flap on RH Drive UK car

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Hi Mike F,
Yes I do have a cover that just goes over the roof section and did use it one winter and it was great (as the roof screen leaked as it was split at that time) BUT the wind blows and the cover plus ropes scratches the bodywork so it put me off ...I may do a cover with a duvet under to keep it warm! It is the cold air freezing inside that is the problem as it causes frost on the screen inside...

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Taken car out and the only thing now wrong is that the heated mirrors stay on and when driving the switch light is bright and it won't turn off at the switch...When stopped with ignition off and key out the switch light goes dim and the heating of mirrors stops. Am now thinking it could be the switch itself that is faulty? Looked behind cover but couldn't get switch out...will need to look that up.

STILL I CANNOT ACCEPT THAT the heated mirrors can still work with the fuse removed this makes no logical sense and is there a separate module or unit that controls the heated mirrors? mine is shown as 5Amp fuse \ Row C position 7 (from left?) referred to as "Terminal X" Why is it called terminal X? Seems strange that it just has a 5Amp?

Surely, if I take the heated mirror switch out or off it must stop working...If so it must be a broken switch!?!

[mikefocke]

I had a Noah fabric full car cover that fit over the entire car and had elastic at the bottom that kept the cover secure. (Think of putting on a fitted bottom sheet on your bed.) The inside of the cover had a soft fabric and, on an Arctic Silver car, I never saw any sign of wear or scratches (but of course the car must be clean when the cover is put on). Mine had the provision for a steel chain with lock to attach to some grommets for added security but I never used it and I suppose that the cover survived some significant storms in the 5 years I used it. Even had special pockets for the outside mirrors which I suppose added some security. Came with a bag which it fit in when folded and stored in the frunk.

In the summer, the Boxster got the garage, in the winter, it got the cover and parked outside.

www.calcarcover.com was where I got mine ($225 now) but I'm sure you can find something similar over there. It survived significant snow and ice storms over a 5 year or so period and was perfect when I sold the car. Was so durable I'd use a push broom to remove a foot of snow from off the cover and then go drive the car the minute the streets were warm enough.

New switches can be bad and the electrical portion can be installed slightly misaligned to the mechanical portion.

[particlewave]

The fuse for mirror defrost is D2. You could also pull the defrost relay, which may be causing the issue and should be checked, anyway. It is relay #4 in the cockpit relay panel (above the fuse box).

[mikefocke]

D2 is a 30 amp fuse.

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Removed heated screen switch but the glass stays hot. It did go off at one point during a 12 mile drive but came on again when switch was put back.
Checked CLU under seat and it seems 100% dry, clean and in good condition - picture attached.

All other bad symptoms gone except this heated mirror issue

[DaveBBOXSTER]

THANKS Mike and Particlewave,
Just went out and checked D2 30 Amp fuse it was OK and even without it in the switch was lit.

[DaveBBOXSTER]

Particlewave, just pulled the #4 block defrost relay out and NOW the switch light has finally gone out...THANKS
Does that suggest or mean it is causing the issue and is faulty and needs replacing?

If I can get a new one maybe worth trying