Any progress on V8 engine swap options? - Page 5 - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

specboxCO · 02-09-2018, 12:46 PM

I used an electric PS pump from a mid 2000s Volvo s40. Cost me $20 from a junk yard and works great. Way easier to find than an MR2 pump. Hardest part was making the fittings for the rack. Had to silver solder AN fittings to the existing brass connectors.

The tensioner was from a 2004 v8 Touareg. Same engine, just slightly different layout with a shorter tensioner for better clearance. You may not need it, as I was trying to get away from needing the upper idler, but it put the tensioner on the wrong side of the belt that way and the clearance was really tight.

titaniumdave · 02-09-2018, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by specboxCO

I used an electric PS pump from a mid 2000s Volvo s40. Cost me $20 from a junk yard and works great. Way easier to find than an MR2 pump. Hardest part was making the fittings for the rack. Had to silver solder AN fittings to the existing brass connectors.

The tensioner was from a 2004 v8 Touareg. Same engine, just slightly different layout with a shorter tensioner for better clearance. You may not need it, as I was trying to get away from needing the upper idler, but it put the tensioner on the wrong side of the belt that way and the clearance was really tight.

Thanks for the Volvo tip! Lines are easy, I build bicycle frame for a living so been soldering bits together for over 40 years

I will look for that tensioner...

titaniumdave · 02-09-2018, 01:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by The Radium King

consider manual steering - i've converted my rack to manual and w 245 tires on the front no issues. otherwise, i've an electric PS rig that i'd sell.

Plan is to run endurance races with a number of drivers, figure 2 hour stints. Anything I can do to make it easier to drive will make us faster and more consistent, plus we will be running 245's all around.

PM with what you have for PS rig.

specboxCO · 02-10-2018, 07:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by titaniumdave

Plan is to run endurance races with a number of drivers, figure 2 hour stints. Anything I can do to make it easier to drive will make us faster and more consistent, plus we will be running 245's all around.

PM with what you have for PS rig.

What series are you planning to run in? I'm building mine for WRL endurance and NASA GTS.

B6T · 02-09-2018, 02:19 PM

That seems fair. Would it be powder-coated or at least painted for that price?

titaniumdave · 02-09-2018, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B6T

That seems fair. Would it be powder-coated or at least painted for that price?

Powder coated , yes.

titaniumdave · 02-10-2018, 11:25 AM

https://www.racelucky.com/

titaniumdave · 02-14-2018, 08:42 AM

Update, here is the front of the cradle with all mount points. I have picked up the motor on the OEM Audi motor mount location AND found I can attache to the motor where the idler pulley mounts! I am deleting the AC and PS pump so this works great for my car. The cool thing about is I can use a different spacer and this will sandwich the pulley into the stack and one can run all accessories. I think we are ready to go but I want to do one more test fit next week and make sure I didn't miss something. This also looks like it will be an off the shelf belt too, should have the belt on Friday to confirm.

titaniumdave · 02-14-2018, 08:43 AM

Images of the pulley mount location.

Gilles · 02-15-2018, 05:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by titaniumdave

Images of the pulley mount location.

Nice clean welds..!

titaniumdave · 02-20-2018, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gilles

Nice clean welds..!

Thanks, all feel quick and dirty to me. 32 year building bicycle frames has given me a bit of practice.

titaniumdave · 02-14-2018, 08:47 AM

Current design has gone back to one pick up point on the transmission/motor interface. I liked the idea of 2 points, the second gets very close to the steel suspension brace that connects the 2 sides of the sub frame and I think it's a 'belt and suspenders' feature. Fingers crossed, this is done...

78F350 · 02-14-2018, 05:20 PM

Looks good Dave. I probably was going to get rid of the PS pump and AC compressor anyway.
How is the positioning working out? Are you looking at an modification to the firewall, or just the top engine cover area? I cut my front firewall a little, but in retrospect, I probably could have hammered it out enough.

titaniumdave · 02-20-2018, 07:41 AM

I will do a test fit tomorrow eve and get pics of final installation. Once everyone know where the cradle will get you, then I'm happy to make more of them. Cross your fingers it's good enough.

titaniumdave · 02-20-2018, 01:48 PM

The belt run works! Off the shelf belt too, 600K7.

specboxCO · 02-22-2018, 12:28 PM

My belt routing is slightly different, coming up and over the tensioner after the crank pulley. I used a 6PK1220 belt.

titaniumdave · 02-22-2018, 01:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by specboxCO

My belt routing is slightly different, coming up and over the tensioner after the crank pulley. I used a 6PK1220 belt.

6 rib? I had the hardest time finding short 7 rib belts, D&D has a few option.

specboxCO · 02-24-2018, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by titaniumdave

6 rib? I had the hardest time finding short 7 rib belts, D&D has a few option.

I'm pretty sure my pulleys are 6 rib. 2001 AUX engine code from an A8. If not, with the reduced stress on the belt from only running the alternator, I'm sure it will survive.

B6T · 02-23-2018, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by titaniumdave

The belt run works! Off the shelf belt too, 600K7.

Not to poop on your parade, but are you sure that tensioner position is going to work?

When you reference the stock belt routing you'll see that the tensioner is the very last contact point on the belt before it goes back onto the crank pulley. This means the tensioner is at the point in the belt where the actual tension is the least, as the belt isn't actually driving any accessories. This leaves it to simply take up slack in the belt where the most slack would occur since the belt at that point is loosest as there is no tension from driving anything.

But when you route the belt as you have, the tensioner is now the first contact point on the belt, which means it is subject to the full tension resulting from driving all the accessories. This means that it will deflect and allow slack after the tensioner, allowing the accessories to slip on the subsequent pullies.

Does this make sense?

Sorry I was just staring at my own AWN V8 in the garage for the last hour so I had some time to think about exact this...

titaniumdave · 02-23-2018, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by B6T

Not to poop on your parade, but are you sure that tensioner position is going to work?

When you reference the stock belt routing you'll see that the tensioner is the very last contact point on the belt before it goes back onto the crank pulley. This means the tensioner is at the point in the belt where the actual tension is the least, as the belt isn't actually driving any accessories. This leaves it to simply take up slack in the belt where the most slack would occur since the belt at that point is loosest as there is no tension from driving anything.

But when you route the belt as you have, the tensioner is now the first contact point on the belt, which means it is subject to the full tension resulting from driving all the accessories. This means that it will deflect and allow slack after the tensioner, allowing the accessories to slip on the subsequent pullies.

Does this make sense?

Sorry I was just staring at my own AWN V8 in the garage for the last hour so I had some time to think about exact this...

This is the stock location, I just removed the AC and PS pump. I assume it works since this is how 1/2 million Audi's and VW have been doing it.