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Old 12-04-2016, 04:03 PM   #1
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Fuel Pump Relay - Jumper- drain fuel tank

I just researched the problem of draining the fuel tank and found some misleading/confusing "information" .So here is what I had to do. I hope it helps others who are running down all the "it won't start" rabbit holes.
The conventional wisdom says the relay is in the 'Drivers footwell ' .More helpful would be to write - way ,way up behind the top of the clutch pedal-where no feet should ever be .
The directions give an alphanumeric location for the fuel pump relay but you can't see the markings even with a bright light and a very contorted neck. It is easy to find if you look for the only PINK lettered relay there
They say remove it. Actually ,it may be very,very stiff to remove .So wiggle it around & around while pulling and gripping tightly with your fingers. It is a very awkward spot so it may be better to do this by feel. If you still have problems, try removing adjacent relays to allow you to get a better grip on 'Pinkie'. Be careful to mark the location and orientation of any relays you remove !
When you get 'Pinkie' outit is easy to get it disoriented so , immediately mark it's lower side"BTM" . The top side has pink lettering on it.
You may want to remove the Fuel Pump fuse before you try all this? But don't forget to replace it for the drain/test !!!
Previous posts show a simple jumper wire to bypass the relay ,some with a fuse. For my 2001 Boxster S ,this hack proved unacceptable.
First, they forgot to mention that the relay panel for this particular relay has several 'dead' slots . It is very easy to fit the jumper to what looks like the correct holes but the pump will not run despite turning the ignition key on/off. What you missed is the slot at the very bottom of the relay socket - you can barely see it. It is oriented horizontally - just like the dead slot above it.You used the wrong slot! So be very cautious about concluding your pump is Kaput because the jumper does not enable the pump to run. If you can not see the relay socket base clearly(you can't!) ,remove the rlay below "Pinkie" " and you can see the issue perfectly. Remember to mark the orientation of any relay you remove.
SO now you have found the correct slots ,get ready to pump out the fuel.The Posts suggest that jumper connected with Key Off will disconnect the pump ,but KOn,EOff will allow the pump to run with the jumper in the correct slots. WRONG!
The pump will run IMMEDIATELY you connect the jumper with Key OFF. The pump is fairly quiet and you may not hear it humming if you are listening to Wagner- until you notice you are standing in a growing puddle of gasoline.Now you are just one spark away from immolation.
So when you make the jumper, I suggest you include both a fuse, a 30A enclosed toggle switch and plenty of cable so you can control the pump quickly and easily.
Some Instructions suggest connecting the drain hose to the fuel rail. There is no space to do so unless they mean using a special fitting for the pressure test connector. So first research how to find that fitting - it is 'just' a standard Schrader valve ?Remove the core? Just like a tire valve?
Instead, I disconnected the fuel line just before the fuel filter (Car is up on a 2 post lift) Then slip a hose over the (now) leaking line. Scoot up top, flip the switch and pump out gas. The tone of the pump changes(if you are musical) when it starts to run dry. Stop immediately.Estimate generously how many cans you will need for the (bad?) gas.
Don't think you can just refill now and 'alles sauber' ! I suggest you will need to drain the fuel filter, flush the rest of the system with fresh gas ,all the way through. I am still researching this part so would appreciate any practical experiences of doing so.I am thinking of just disconnecting the Return line underneath the car and flushing with fresh gas.
I hope these notes help the 'it won't start, there are no codes " victims. And I really hope it saves them needlessly buying a new pump and the finding they still have the same problem ! There is a Youtube video showing exactly that but it is just a commercial saying ' aren't we smart?" with little practical advice.
Now I need to wash the stink of gas of my hands and shirt!


Last edited by Gelbster; 12-07-2016 at 07:40 AM.
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Old 12-05-2016, 05:20 AM   #2
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So what i've learned today is:

Take attention of your pinky.

Listen to Wagner if you do any 986 repairs:


If you make a Jumper, integrate a fuse and a toggle switch, else kaputt.


Drain the fuel filter, but maybe think about if your car has one (mine has none - part of the fuel pump).

Regards, Markus
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Old 12-05-2016, 12:29 PM   #3
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My 1999 Boxster project car took s bit longer to complete than expected. Isn't that always the case? The fuel in the tank was 16 months old and I didn't want to take any chances. This write up saved the day. I drained 10 gallons out without spilling more than a couple of drops.

Porsche Boxster Fuel Pump Replacement - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article
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Old 12-05-2016, 12:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mig View Post
My 1999 Boxster project car took s bit longer to complete than expected. Isn't that always the case? The fuel in the tank was 16 months old and I didn't want to take any chances. This write up saved the day. I drained 10 gallons out without spilling more than a couple of drops.

Porsche Boxster Fuel Pump Replacement - 986 / 987 (1997-08) - Pelican Parts Technical Article
Unfortunately there are several details in that link that do not match my experience with a 2001 S .For example, Wayne wrote :"This will cause the fuel pump to turn on automatically when you turn the key in the ignition." NO it runs w/o ignition switch operated !
The article lacks other tedious practical details that I mentioned. Some of which may prompt you to needlessly buy a new Fuel Pump.
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Old 12-06-2016, 04:43 AM   #5
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I have a lift so this makes it easy for me but I usually raise the car to the right spot to put a 5 gallon gas can on a chair. My cans all have tubes that loosely fit over the fuel line disconnect close to the rear left tire. I usually disconnect the battery and hook up a battery charger to the +&-. With the battery disconnected and the jumper wire in the relay, I can control the fuel pump by plugging in the battery charger. I'll sit there and watch until the fuel tank is empty. The second I hear/see the tank is empty I disconnect the battery charger.
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Old 12-06-2016, 05:40 AM   #6
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Use one of the emergency jumper gel cell batteries that auto parts stores sell. They have an on/off switch.

Anker

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bad gas , drain fuel tank , fuel pump relay , stale gas , won't start



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