Boxster S 2001 electrics issue causing battery drain

[Ianbadams]

Hello. New to this and was wondering if anyone can help.****

I've been experiencing battery drain for sometime now. New battery put in and is good.****

What I notices is that around the sidelights/headlights/foglights switch there are small symbols which are back lit. Also the buttons for the front and back boot which sit in the door sill panel have small lights on them too. ****These lights remain on even when the car is all off and locked.****

I removed fuse C7 and this switched off the small symbol lights around the headlight switch. I think when this fuse is removed the battery drain is not occurring. However I don't know what this links to, ****in terms of why the small lights are remaining on when the fuse is left in?

Then noticed the boot button panel also was lit but don't know what fuse operates these lights?****

Anyone with knowledge of these and likely problem I'd really appreciate some help.****

Thanks, Ian****

[particlewave]

When was the last time you replaced the ignition switch?

[Ianbadams]

The ignition switch was faulty and changed earlier in the year, March time. This issue started in September.

Tonight when removing fuse c3 the boot button lights switched off (alarm set off aswell!) so identified that c3 switches those lights off and c7 switches headlamp switch symbols.

Someone has suggested that the headlamp switch is not switching off the interior light circuit?

Do you suggest issue with ignition?

[jcslocum]

These drains can be tough to track down. Here is some testing info

How to Find and Stop Car Battery Drains

There are also some good videos out there that you can watch.

[particlewave]

The lights around the headlamp switch are powered by fuse C7.
Fuse C7 is a switched 12V+.
If you have 12V+ on C7 with ignition off, your ignition switch is faulty.

[Lew]

This is how I check for Battery Drain

[Anker]

Useful tip/Thanks

[Lew]

If your problem is the ignition switch. This will help.


Replace Ignition Switch Porsche DIY

[Gelbster]

Stop !
Do the simple,fast Particleweave test on C7 in Post 5 above first.Otherwise you'll be going down endless rabbit holes.

[madmodz]

My speedometer miles, clock stays lit up after I turn the motor off. I figure its the ignition switch. Cheapest one I found was on ebay 5.78 free shipping:

BRAND NEW IGNITION SWITCH FOR AUDI PORSCHE VOLKSWAGEN | eBay

Audi wanted 69.00, bought one at Napa for 13 because they had it in stock.

[Anker]

They are supposed to stay on for 5 minutes, or if you lock the car. Do yours stay on for a long time, or forever?

Anker

[madmodz]

Originally Posted by Anker

They are supposed to stay on for 5 minutes, or if you lock the car. Do yours stay on for a long time, or forever?

Anker

It stopped shutting off, and stays on 24/7. I'm keeping a battery tender at night on it. I'm hoping the new one solves some other problems I'm having.

[san rensho]

Disconnect the negative cable to the battery and connect an amp meter between the terminal and cable. The background draw should be around .04. If its higher remove fuses one by one until the draw falls. Thats the circuit thats bad.

[Lew]

If you do it that way you loose you clock setting, etc. My way showing in the PDF (personal data file) I posted you don't loose you clock setting, etc..

[DarkStar]

Ahhhmazing, I was on my way here to start this very post. I too am experiencing issues. I've been experiencing this issue since I bought the car. But it's not consistent it can be fine for a year but randomly car won't start.... And this will last a week or so... And then the car is fine for a long while. I eventually replaced the typical, starter, Alternator, and a new Bosch AGM battery.

I do know that there have been relay issues. As in sticky relays or burnt out relays. I assume the previous owner had an Issue with a fuse and replaced the fuse for the top/windows with a larger fuse. It burnt out one day rolling down my windows so I replaced it with another not knowing it was extremely high volume what it required. The power wire for that switch melted. I ended up removing the dash and repaired all damages. Later in the year my blower started taking a while to activate. Eventually it stopped working. I found the relay was burnt.

Been thinking maybe fuses are getting sticky and causing issues. I was thinking of replacing all relays with new ones.

But I have to get this under control. I can't risk damaging my new AGM, I do have a 4 year warranty but still. Pushing my car down the street to jump start it before work isn't entertaining.

[particlewave]

The OP's issue was solved with a new ignition switch (confirmed through PM's ).

Josh: time to get the multimeter out and start testing circuits.

[jcslocum]

I would replace the ignition switch....again if it was done already. It's a $7 part, how good can it be!!

Invest in a can of Deoxit and begin methodically takin apart or taking out all electrical stuff and spraying the connectors. This is good stuff.

Find and clean every ground. 15YO car = the beginning of Electrickery issues.

[Gelbster]

Agreed Deoxit is good value. Here is a link for those in damp environments that discusses alternatives and techniques. The short version is "Use Deoxit":
Cheaper alternative to $15 Deoxit contact cleaner? - The Garage Journal Board

[DarkStar]

I had assumptions. As lights stay on constantly unless I lock doors. Sometimes things on the car don't work correctly Like the pass side door/alarm won't lock when I lock it from the door (remote has been damaged for a while)... Might try an ignition switch.