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Old 09-16-2016, 11:09 AM   #1
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Cam Position Sensor Replacement

I have searched the forum with little luck in finding an answer. I have an 02 Boxster S. I have the DTC P0343. Bank one Cam position Sensor. I thought I was lucky and the sensor would be in the front, behind the seats and easy to get to. Unfortunately it is bank one and I have since found out that is the right side looking from the flywheel end of the engine. So that places this sensor near the transaxle, correct? How the heck do you get in there? any help would be appreciated before I tear the whole top end out of the car.
Rich
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Old 09-16-2016, 01:08 PM   #2
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When the engine is cold & the rear is up on a hoist/ramps/jack stands - look/grope rearward of #3 spark plug. The sensor has 2 hex-socket head screws and a wire in the center. The wire is rather vulnerable to damage so check that before you buy a sensor ?
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Old 09-19-2016, 11:25 AM   #3
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Well, I was able to replace the cam sensor for bank 1. P0343. Now I am getting the code for the other sensor P0341. At least this one looks easier to replace.
Never ending it seems.
Rich
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Old 09-19-2016, 11:37 AM   #4
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Rich,
Rethink this .
Both cam sensors failed at the same time or in rapid succession ? What are the chances of this happening? Seems like there may be other issues like upstream connectivity. Poke around gently and use a very bright light looking for damage/disconnection/rodent droppings?
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Old 10-04-2016, 08:52 AM   #5
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Ok so an update on this work. Got past what I was able to do, I took the car into a reputable local shop. I asked them for some diagnostic time. They found the vari cam solenoid is not working. 10 hrs labor so in the bay area that equates to $1775 including the parts. Should I put this kind of money into an engine with almost 200k in mileage?
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Old 10-04-2016, 11:48 AM   #6
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There is one solenoid for each bank, so depending on your financial position you may decide to do both ?
Here is some background to help you understand the world's mot expensive solenoid !
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7C5E-yAlZwI
And for diy the left hand thread bolts to compress the tensioner are a great help !
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Old 10-05-2016, 08:00 AM   #7
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Did the shop verify there's no electrical issues? I was told I needed to replace one of my solenoids but it turned out to be a damaged wiring harness.
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Old 10-05-2016, 08:08 AM   #8
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Who said :"Seems like there may be other issues like upstream connectivity. Poke around gently and use a very bright light looking for damage/disconnection/"
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Old 10-05-2016, 09:50 AM   #9
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yeah man, you may be headed down the wrong path?

here is a crash course in how all this cam adjuster shizzle works ...

computer sends a signal to the solenoid.
solenoid activates the acuator.
actuator pushes on pads that adjust chain tension and modify camshaft postion.
camshaft position sensor sees this and sends a signal back to the computer.

any and all of this stuff can fail; wiring, pads, solenoids, actuators, position sensors. most of this stuff is expensive to access in order to diagnose (you have to open the engine to see it). some of this stuff is expensive to buy (actuators are $1000 each and you need two).

so, you have to look at all the signs and symptoms in order to make the right call before you spend big $. failed actuator - often green rubber in your oil. failed pads - often brown plastic in the oil. did your mechanic check your oil filter? error codes - you are getting 0341 and 0343 - do you know what this means? 'implausible signal' (read here - http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/21644-cam-position-sensor-po341.html) so, not too high or too low (which would be caused by failure of other components such as pads, solenoids, etc.) but 'implausible' - ie, open or closed circuit, or intermittent signal, due to faulty wiring, corroded connector, etc.

gelb is right.
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Old 10-05-2016, 12:06 PM   #10
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"gelb(ster) is right"
Gasp, praise from the King ! I am humbled and glowing :-).
Let's hope the P.O. finds a competent M96 Indie who can trouble shoot before he throws multiple $1000 parts at this - or dumps the car.
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Old 10-05-2016, 12:12 PM   #11
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Couldn't wiring integrity be tested using a Durametric? You could activate the cam and test for signal voltage at the connector?

Last edited by 911monty; 10-05-2016 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 10-05-2016, 01:17 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 911monty View Post
Couldn't wiring integrity be tested using a Durametric? You could activate the cam and test for signal voltage at the connector?
While you can activate the system using the Durametric, it is not set up- to read voltages. That would be better accomplished with a multi meter or Power Probe tool.
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Old 10-05-2016, 01:29 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by JFP in PA View Post
While you can activate the system using the Durametric, it is not set up- to read voltages. That would be better accomplished with a multi meter or Power Probe tool.
Yes, my bad attempt at brevity. That's what I meant when I said "test" for voltage. However it seems like a simple test for continuity and command from the DME.
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Old 10-05-2016, 02:29 PM   #14
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If the Durametric triggers the unit, you must have continuity; what it does not tell you is the triggering voltage, or the resistance in the wires, that requires other gear.
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Old 10-05-2016, 09:23 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by rczap View Post
Well, I was able to replace the cam sensor for bank 1. P0343. Now I am getting the code for the other sensor P0341. At least this one looks easier to replace.
Never ending it seems.
Rich
Quote:
Originally Posted by rczap View Post
Ok so an update on this work. Got past what I was able to do, I took the car into a reputable local shop. I asked them for some diagnostic time. They found the vari cam solenoid is not working. 10 hrs labor so in the bay area that equates to $1775 including the parts. Should I put this kind of money into an engine with almost 200k in mileage?
Did they say which side failed?
Or did they say both sides failed?
Did they use a PST or did they use some other diagnose tool?

If you decide to do one, you should replace both sides. At 200.000 miles i think that is a good idea to replace/inspect both. Maybe you get used ones from a low mileage engine and can replace chain tensioner rails with new ones – see Video from Gelbster.

Concerning what to do: 2004/2005 US cars don't have that f… solenoids.

Regards, Markus
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Old 10-06-2016, 05:04 AM   #16
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I have talked to the shop, they did all the tests to make sure this was the culprit. I really appreciate all of the responses. I am a rookie on this forum, but then again I am a rookie Porsche owner as well. I have been on many other forums and it never ceases to amaze me how helpful and knowledgeable the people are. You guys rock!
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Old 10-06-2016, 08:54 AM   #17
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I have all this equipment and use it. But I know very little about the quirks of the M96 despite many Posts and countless hours reading on the subject. I would give this 'needle in a haystack' task to a competent Indie because he will know where/how to check and will have worked on this problem before. I can't imagine the time wasted by starting with a wiring diagram and making a first stumbling attempt at this. Often he will discover other issues while probing. That is the hidden value of a competent Indie - if he is honest.
You'd be amazed how many issues we notice when doing routine servicing - we alert the customer and they are usually very grateful and often become long term customers. We have some who say -yes, they can do the servicing but they bring the car to us just because we look for things that may cause future problems. We even have a phrase for the customer when it is time to sell a problematic/doomed car "CarMax time !"
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Old 10-13-2016, 11:24 AM   #18
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Well the car is back, It ended up needing the whole cam adjuster. But now it passed smog I can drive it and I am a happy camper for sure. They pulled the sump to check for debris from the guide shoes and plus if there was any metal shavings from the IMSB. Seems for now I am good to go enjoy this car!
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