Immobilizer got moist. no start, random other issues. car stuck!

[jcslocum]

Unlock the frunk with the small cable in the pass side wheel well. But the battery sounds good.

Get with Woody on here know as itsnotanova for a new immobilizer ecu, and key/ignition lock.

[hazardc]

I noticed some corrosion on the red wire on the smaller plug again.




I couldn't find the stupid wire, and obviously can't take the wheel off.

I tried that "screwdriver between the trunk release trick" and I must not be getting it. Does anyone have a picture of themselves actually DOING that? I don't see any "white thing" to move.

with everything working, I'm not yet convinced this is a loss... and if it is, it's going into the garage for the foreseeable future.

Good thing I start on 18 credit hours on Monday :ah:

Still in disbelief that water got in there, it's always been dry.... I've heeded the warnings.. I'm going to throw it in the vac with some heat and try to make sure the plugs are all nice and dry

I still need to get this f'n trunk open. This is absolute stupidity to have a car where you can't even get to the tow-kit if the computer-that-lays-in-a-bowl-with-no-drain-in-a-convertible gets wet.


Is there any reason to really think this thing is dead if it's operating all the other stuff correctly?

[78F350]

A few notes that may or may not help:
My second Boxster was a flood salvaged '01 that had sat with water-saturated carpet for a few months. The immobilizer/Central Locking Unit box under the seat had components that were corroded beyond repair. Some of the pins on the wire harness connector were also corroded.
-For the wiring, I got a new connector from Woody (User name itsnotanova) and spliced it on.
-With the box being unrepairable, I bought a used set off eBay (key fob, immobilizer box, and DME/ECU) for about $500.


-There is also a shop called ECUDoctors.com that repairs them and sells waterproof boxes. Porsche 996 & Boxster ECU Test and Repair, Immobilizer Removal, and Performance Tuning Upgrades - Specialized ECU Repair

-Here's a link to how I got the frunk open:
How to open hood when battery is good

-The padding under the carpet is like a sponge and it Will Not Dry on it's own. The moisture remaining there can corrode your CLU box again. The carpet has to be removed, or lifted while air is circulated underneath.
Oh no, another...

[hazardc]

UPDATE:

I got the frunk open.

At this point I've cleaned the unit out, there was some corrosion, but there wasn't anything too out of the ordinary. The thing passed the "smell test"




EVERYTHING works EXCEPT *NO START* and *FRUNK AND TRUNK ALWAYS LOCKED*




Fob works fine, i can pop the rear still, i can put the top up and down, I reset the memory on the windows after disconnecting and fully charging the battery.

I put the clu back in with the battery disconnected. It's OBVIOUSLY getting power and all functions work except that the car is obviously immobilized and I can't figure out *why* I can lock and unlock the doors just fine with key or keyless


Is there anyone who knows what fuses i should be looking at or where I should be checking for voltage?

Or ANY suggestions on this one? It seems intuitive that this unit is not dead, but the car has been immobilized. Can this be reset with the key?


Looking for

1) any possible procedures to deactivate the immobilizer with the key or whatever


2) fuses that should be checked

3) places voltages should be checked.




THANK YOU in advance.


I do not have a durametric.

[hazardc]

I have some corrosion on pin #4.. I know this is "immobilizer control" but where does it trace to?

[78F350]

Originally Posted by hazardc

I have some corrosion on pin #4.. I know this is "immobilizer control" but where does it trace to?

Pin A4 connects to A6 on the "signal transformer anti-drive-off lock". I think that's a small module that bolts on to the steering column.

[hazardc]

Originally Posted by 78F350

Pin A4 connects to A6 on the "signal transformer anti-drive-off lock". I think that's a small module that bolts on to the steering column.

Hmm... I'll try to trace it tomorrow. Do you have any experience with this diagnosis?

One other thing i noticed... my steering wheel doesn't lock.

So the three problems No steering lock, no start, no frunk/trunk unlock (keyfob opens rear.. using cable to open front)

One thing i noticed is i think the transponder coil is actually working now. it makes an audible click in the dash and in the rear of the car when i turn the key... I do not believe it previously was giving me that much.


I was really tired when I was working on it today, should have put a meter on the battery to make sure it wasn't draining again (there has been some parasitic drain during this.. i'm guessing when the alarm kept chirping)