986s autocross alignment

[j.fro]

Ditto on the other posts. Max negative camber all around, toe out in front, toe in on rear... But EQUAL side to side. Find a shop (chat with local PCA, SCCA, Cars & Coffee for recommendations) that knows both the Boxster and race alignment. The tech doing the job will make or break your alignment. To really be spot on, get bags of sand, dog food, whatever and put your weight in the driver's seat/ side.

[Seal Grey Sasha 986]

Thanks for the input, guys. You're all pretty much pointing towards the set-up I was considering, but I just needed some re-afirmation. One question that I have though, considering how much camber the rear can adjust to compared to the front, couldn't maxing out the rear still result in understeer? I know the toe angle has allot to do with it as well (along with pretty much everything else). I'm looking at the print-out from my last alignment now... I had -.1 front, and -1.5 left and -2.2 right (bent, leaking strut, hence the new struts) and 0 toe front, .15 total positive rear. Thanks for the tire recommendations as well...that's on my list for next season, and I'm always open to suggestions for better rubber

[Seal Grey Sasha 986]

Originally Posted by j.fro

Ditto on the other posts. Max negative camber all around, toe out in front, toe in on rear... But EQUAL side to side. Find a shop (chat with local PCA, SCCA, Cars & Coffee for recommendations) that knows both the Boxster and race alignment. The tech doing the job will make or break your alignment. To really be spot on, get bags of sand, dog food, whatever and put your weight in the driver's seat/ side.

Jeffrey, you're always fast at my PCA autocrosses, so your opinion is one I value. Any suggestions for a good shop to give me guidance? Do you still do alignments in your garage? I'll finally be starting my job at BMW in the next week, and one of my mentors used to be a mechanic for the Synergy Porsche team, so I'll be picking his brain as well...

[GatorLapis]

...The tech doing the job will make or break your alignment. To really be spot on, get bags of sand, dog food, whatever and put your weight in the driver's seat/ side.

Couldn't agree more... Use a performance shop that has been in service for years. Make sure they use a reputable alignment machine like hunter's and ask when it was calibrated. Less than 1 year is a max. If you go to a Dyno shop they will charge you 200 plus if you go to a shady mechanic it will be 59.99. The guys I go to charge me 80.00 plus tip for a one hour alignment with me sitting on the drivers seat.

[Yellow986S]

For track alignment I have always gone with
Front: -2.8 camber and toe Out
Rear: -2.3 camber and toe Out

Any reason why you guys run toe Out in the front and toe In at the rear?

I thought the toe out in the rear would help with turn in.

[JayG]

Originally Posted by Yellow986S

For track alignment I have always gone with
Front: -2.8 camber and toe Out
Rear: -2.3 camber and toe Out

Any reason why you guys run toe Out in the front and toe In at the rear?

I thought the toe out in the rear would help with turn in.

Nice settings, but those won't happen with a stock suspension
Around .9 front and 1.8 max rear is all you get

Yes, zero toe in the front and a smidge of toe out in the back

[j.fro]

Toe out in the front helps with turn in. Toe in in the rear keeps the car more stable at speed.