06-03-2016, 10:22 AM
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#1
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1998 Boxster Owner
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Tucson
Posts: 141
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Dropping the engine a couple of inches
I want to take my air box off to get better access to my fuel injectors and rail on the drivers side. I read on Pedro's site that dropping the engine a few inches helps get the room to remove the box. Are these the four bolts that I need to take off to accomplish this? Thanks, Tom
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06-03-2016, 10:39 AM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,512
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Hello Ton,
yes this is the mount for the front engine mount. But these 4 are bolts and screws. So if you're lucky the bolts come out with the screws.
Don't forget to support the engine while doing this. You an do this from the top or from the bottom. But if you want to remove the complete intake system i would recommend to support from the bottom.
Regards, Markus
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06-03-2016, 10:45 AM
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#3
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On the slippery slope
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Austin and Palm Springs
Posts: 3,797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smallblock454
Hello Ton,
yes this is the mount for the front engine mount. But these 4 are bolts and screws. So if you're lucky the bolts come out with the screws.
Don't forget to support the engine while doing this. You an do this from the top or from the bottom. But if you want to remove the complete intake system i would recommend to support from the bottom.
Regards, Markus
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Translation
Studs and nuts
FIFY
No big deal if the studs come out, just put them back in with a 7mm socket
__________________
2004 Boxster S 6 speed - DRL relay hack, Polaris AutoTop DIY
2004 996 Targa Tip
Instructor - San Diego region
2014 Porsche Performance Driving School
2020 BMW X3, 2013 Ram 1500, 2016 Cmax, 2004 F-150 "Big Red"
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06-03-2016, 11:11 AM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: LB, Germany
Posts: 1,512
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Thanks, JayG.
Last edited by Smallblock454; 06-03-2016 at 11:14 AM.
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06-03-2016, 11:48 AM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Orange County, CA
Posts: 1,955
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When lowering the engine be careful not to go too far, without first unplugging the connector at the firewall (behind drivers seat) otherwise you may end having a new electrical issue...
Good luck.
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06-03-2016, 12:51 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 91
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I replaced the front motor mount last week. Yes, start with those 4, but don't stop there. Remove the forward underbody plastic tray to access the hangars for the radiator hoses. Unbolt the clamps which support the hoses so you can lower the engine without stressing out the radiator hose connections.
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06-03-2016, 01:05 PM
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#7
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 150
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Just support engine first with a jack and remove the nuts .The studs stay put and the mount lowers on the studs. If a stud comes out with the nut don,t worry just put it back like a bolt when raising the engine back up. Good point about watch carefully for stretched wires and hoses while lowering though
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06-03-2016, 01:11 PM
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#8
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1998 Boxster Owner
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Tucson
Posts: 141
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Thank for all of the tips. Hopefully I won't run into any problems. But with the heat wave, my garage in now a toasty 95 degrees F.
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06-03-2016, 01:29 PM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 150
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I,m doing exactly the same on mine right now and am about to lower my engine to r&r the airbox . Hope I don,t need a new motor mount while in there. Sure is tight removing everything so far I have the injectors out and the drivers side manifold loose still not enough room though. Then 996 throttle body,987 airbox headers and 200 cell cats plus an underdrive pulley. All at the same time . lots of work this weekend.
Last edited by johnsjmc; 06-03-2016 at 01:31 PM.
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06-03-2016, 03:27 PM
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#10
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There Is No Substitute.
Join Date: May 2007
Location: West Coast
Posts: 3,253
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^If you've never replaced the motor mount and you have more than 70k miles, I would replace it while you are in there. You will already be halfway there, and if you buy the insert and press it into the existing mount isn't not a very expensive replacement.
As mentioned be mindful of stressing the radiator hoses when you lower the engine, I would be careful if you plan on lowering it more than 3". I supported the engine with a large scissor jack topped with a 2x4 to make sure there was not too much pressure anywhere. I would highly recommend a scissor jack, I felt that it gave me a lot more control to make small height adjustments, which was helpful when reinstalling the motor mount bolts.
Best of luck!
__________________
1999 Ocean Blue Metallic Boxster - blueboxster.com
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06-03-2016, 04:21 PM
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#11
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1998 Boxster Owner
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Tucson
Posts: 141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rick3000
^If you've never replaced the motor mount and you have more than 70k miles, I would replace it while you are in there. You will already be halfway there, and if you buy the insert and press it into the existing mount isn't not a very expensive replacement.
As mentioned be mindful of stressing the radiator hoses when you lower the engine, I would be careful if you plan on lowering it more than 3". I supported the engine with a large scissor jack topped with a 2x4 to make sure there was not too much pressure anywhere. I would highly recommend a scissor jack, I felt that it gave me a lot more control to make small height adjustments, which was helpful when reinstalling the motor mount bolts.
Best of luck! 
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Good advice. I'm using a scissors jack and 2x4 to do the support. I'm going to inspect the mount. I suspect it's shot. But I'll do the full replacement a bit later. Trying to diagnose a no run condition and need to get to the injectors. The air box goes back on after I hopefully figure it out. At that point, I have to lower the engine again, and then I'll replace the motor mount at that point.
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06-03-2016, 04:30 PM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 150
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I,ll inspect the mount while lowered ,realize its not very expensive.
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06-03-2016, 06:23 PM
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#13
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On the slippery slope
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Austin and Palm Springs
Posts: 3,797
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The mount insert is around $30-$35, but the new rubber shims are $25 each! And you need 2
the new inserts are a 987 part and are improved. The new shims are thicker than the old ones
here is my thread on changing mine
http://986forum.com/forums/general-discussions/61688-clunk-when-shifting.html
__________________
2004 Boxster S 6 speed - DRL relay hack, Polaris AutoTop DIY
2004 996 Targa Tip
Instructor - San Diego region
2014 Porsche Performance Driving School
2020 BMW X3, 2013 Ram 1500, 2016 Cmax, 2004 F-150 "Big Red"
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