Wheel bearings are hard

[steved0x]

I've got the tool hooked up, and dang it is hard. I've been down there all day getting to this point so I am going to take a break until tomorrow.





If anybody sees anything I missed, holler or if it is just hard, tell me to suck it up. I may go get a 22mm(or whatever size, I have to refresh my memory) 1/2 drive socket so I can use my big breaker bar.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by steved0x

I've got the tool hooked up, and dang it is hard. I've been down there all day getting to this point so I am going to take a break until tomorrow.

Steve,
I am really sorry for you... I replaced my bearings a few months ago and still sore....

First, the tool that you are using is not the right one, to get the spindle out with the inner bearing race you will need to borrow (Autozone or Kragen) a 5lb sledge hammer, the smaller won't do it, you also need the adapter that bolts into the wheel studs.

I had to borrow from Autozone the sledge hammer and also a puller (adapter) and use them together as the holes on the sledge hammer are too close together and you need to space them so the hub comes straight.

Once you separate the bearing, you will need a dremel to cutb a slot on the inner race so you can split them.

Good luck, (and I am feel for you)

[steved0x]

Another approach might be to use my original lug bolts and use them to press out the hub.

I think the tool I am using is right, I just need to rest up a little and get back to it tomorrow.

O'Reilly has the slide hammer/puller thingy if I get to desperate.

I saw a video, otc hub grappler, for use with an impact gun

[jakeru]

Be sure to lube the the threads on your tool, Steve, and also lube the washer. Moly cv joint grease (the dark gray/black stuff) works great as an extreme-pressure grease for this sort of application. Also, if the threads are dirty with old grease, you could try cleaning them and re-greasing.

I wonder if spraying some penetrating fluid in the gearing race crack might help.

I've done wheel bearings on other cars but not yet on the Porsche. And, yes, getting more torque with a longer lever/breaker bar could also make it go much easier.

If worst comes to worst, I suppose you could also remove the hub(s) from the car, and take it to a shop with a hydraulic press.

Hope this helps, and best of luck!

[steved0x]

I lubed the tool with a little redline CV-2 grease. I am hoping not to have to remove the carrier but at this point only the strut is holding it up I don't want to disconnect the ebrake

[steved0x]

Originally Posted by steved0x

.

Ok... Thought. Maybe my backing plate is too big and I am trying to pull out the hub and bearing together which is a no go since there is a plate capturing the bearing in front? Looking at the directions again I saw where it looked like the big nut on the end was used by itself with no backing plate to draw the hub out. I'm headed back to the internet to watch video and reread the various sources and instructions again...

[steved0x]

ST_B90_Instructions

No backing plate for hub extraction... Doh...

Go to page six, the anchor isn't working for some reason...

[Meir]

LOL!
i was about to tell you that. as i was going over my pics and re-sizing them, i noticed i did not use the plate. use the method as described in page one.

[Meir]

not the best pic, but clearly without the plate. use only part#2

[steved0x]

No wonder it was so hard for me, glad I stopped

[Gilles]

Steve, hopefully the video works, it shows my son helping me with the sledge hammer on the last bearing as my back took a vacation...

https://www.facebook.com/gilles.deprevoisin.3/videos/10207381200081047/

[Meir]

i updated my old thread, so have a look and don't hesitate to give me a call if needed.
just don't forget the retaining plate

[steved0x]

Much easier now that the tool is correctly configured, you can see the ball bearings peeking out.

I think I have to remove one of tge wheel studs to finish the extraction, I need to anyway to adjust the parking brake when I put it all back together.

I'm stopping for now because we are going to church now, for my cousin's granddaughter baby dedication.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by Meir

i updated my old thread, so have a look and don't hesitate to give me a call if needed.
just don't forget the retaining plate

Meir,
I also forgot the retaining plate and had to remove the brand new bearing with the sledge hammer...

Then I installed the bearings with the magnetic strip outside and had to remove them again.. to make a long story short I had to buy seven bearings to replace the four corners... "famous wrong moves"

It was was bear of a job (for me anyway..) not technical, just plain hard.. I am glad it's over

[steved0x]

Magnetic strip, Gilles do you have a 987? I wasn't aware we had a strip. Is that why we are to install the number side facing the hub? I though the teeth on the axle did all the speed/abs/tc sensing.

[jdraupp]

Great thread, I know I'm eventually due for this and wishing I wasn't.

Just curious. Why is it that the rear bearings are always changed and not the front?

[Meir]

Originally Posted by steved0x

Much easier now that the tool is correctly configured, you can see the ball bearings peeking out.

I think I have to remove one of tge wheel studs to finish the extraction, I need to anyway to adjust the parking brake when I put it all back together.

I'm stopping for now because we are going to church now, for my cousin's granddaughter baby dedication.

Steve.
Don't remove any wheel studs. Spin the hub or position the horseshoe sideways to get clearance.
Anyway, it looks like you are few threads away.

[Meir]

Originally Posted by jdraupp

Great thread, I know I'm eventually due for this and wishing I wasn't.

Just curious. Why is it that the rear bearings are always changed and not the front?

I guess it has to do with the fact that this is the driving Axle, and the tires are much bigger. Don't know about you, but I just love going hard into a corner :dance:
I can just imagine what the poor bearings have to go thru every time I'm doing that

[Meir]

Originally Posted by Gilles

Meir,
I also forgot the retaining plate and had to remove the brand new bearing with the sledge hammer...

Then I installed the bearings with the magnetic strip outside and had to remove them again.. to make a long story short I had to buy seven bearings to replace the four corners... "famous wrong moves"

It was was bear of a job (for me anyway..) not technical, just plain hard.. I am glad it's over

This us defenetly a jub, the require a lot of patients and attention to details.
I thing that the fact it also requires physical effort, makes you loos it when you get tired.
Add to that the lack of detailed instructions online, and the chance of making a mistake is pretty high.
Next time, I definetly need to make a video.

[Gilles]

Originally Posted by steved0x

Magnetic strip, Gilles do you have a 987? I wasn't aware we had a strip. Is that why we are to install the number side facing the hub? I though the teeth on the axle did all the speed/abs/tc sensing.

Steve, yes I have an 07 Cayman S (a Boxter w/roof..lol)

The first time I installed the rear bearings the PSM freaked out and JFP kindly asked "did you installed the bearing with the magnetic sensor facing the right way..?"

One side of the bearing has a magnetic strip that the sensor uses for the ABS, and Pelican sells you a gizmo for it, but someone on the forum recommended to use a thin metal strip and I used a small engineers ruler (the kind they give away at the trade shows) and is very easy to find which side is the magnetic one.

Please note that you should remove the sensor before removing the bearing because is very easy to break and it costs about $100...

Good luck with your project, it will be a nice workout...