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Originally Posted by jdraupp
And they were wrong.
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Actually not, given proper filtration synthetic oil can last almost indefinitely in terms of viscosity, the problem is the additives break down and no longer perform their intended function.
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This may be correct if you can run the engine up to temperature and get a good 20 minute run cycle. Otherwise you do more damage to start it than its worth. And as the reason I'm storing my box is due to inclement weather...so that's not feasible. Again, I get what you're saying here, but you haven't convinced me that my regimen is worth altering.
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This entire thread is confusing the function of oil in a stored engine. A running engine needs to be protected from thermal breakdown of the oil which creates varnish and other compounds to form. Detergents and additives are added to decrease the effects of shear and reduce deposits from thermal breakdown amoungst other things.
In a stored engine rust prohibition is the primary function of oil. It does not need to provide lubrication to reduce friction as there is none, it does not face thermal breakdown from high temperatures, it can however be subject to waxes forming and crystallization of certain compounds at lower temps.
This thread has talked about acidic compounds forming in oil. Motor oil has a ph of 6, gasoline is an alkane which is inert and thus has a ph of 7. So if you were to pour gasoline into your motor oil it would not make it acidic, it would make it more basic so the acidic problem referred to earlier is a non sequitur.
I submit that coating an engine internally with a kerosene and paraffin mix prior to
storage would do a better job than the most expensive royal purple if the Royal purple simply sat in the sump.
Look at the old jeeps that were shipped in crates and coated with cosmoline. The US army knew how to prevent rust and corrosion.
And JFP is a smart fellow, so smart he does not need you guys to tell everyone how smart he is for him.