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Old 10-01-2015, 10:44 AM   #1
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Logging a cold start w/ Durametric?

Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I couldn't find help by searching the interwebs.

I have the SAI codes (p0410 p1411) on my 99 base and I was trying to replicate this test with the Durametric Enthusiast.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47862-help-diagnosing-possible-sai-problem/

Looks like this person was able to start the engine with the Durametric already logging actual values. I was not able to start the engine with the cable in and program booted up. Is there some trick to this?

In any case, as fast as I could get booted up, and before the air pump shut off, I was seeing the pre-cat sensor oscillate so I guess I'm not getting air to the exhaust.

Not sure I have the intestinal fortitude or know-how to remove the intake and go further so into the shop it goes.

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Old 10-05-2015, 09:23 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huskyrunnr View Post
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but I couldn't find help by searching the interwebs.

I have the SAI codes (p0410 p1411) on my 99 base and I was trying to replicate this test with the Durametric Enthusiast.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/47862-help-diagnosing-possible-sai-problem/

Looks like this person was able to start the engine with the Durametric already logging actual values. I was not able to start the engine with the cable in and program booted up. Is there some trick to this?

In any case, as fast as I could get booted up, and before the air pump shut off, I was seeing the pre-cat sensor oscillate so I guess I'm not getting air to the exhaust.

Not sure I have the intestinal fortitude or know-how to remove the intake and go further so into the shop it goes.
This is what I do:
1. Ignition to ON position.
2. Start Durametric and enter your settings.
3. Quickly start engine.
The engine must start quickly before the cable disconnects. This usually works.

It doesn't matter though since you've already determined that you're not getting air. Since your air pump is working, your change-over or diverter valve is probably not opening. I had the same issue. The diverter valve is under the intake manifold and is difficult to reach, so to test it, I just disconnected the air hose at the air pump, and stuck in a short 3 ft air compressor hose (with the quick disconnect removed) and it fit perfectly in the hose. With the engine off, you should not be able to blow into the hose. Turn on the engine while cold and the valve should open and you should be able to blow easily into the tube. If you still can't blow into the tube, the valve is not opening for some reason, either due to lack of vacuum or a defective valve. In my case, it was a small check valve which got disconnected from one of the crossover tubes. This supplies the vacuum to the AIR system so plugging it back in resolved my problem.
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Old 10-07-2015, 01:42 PM   #3
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Thanks, very clear. I'll try that sequence when I get a chance. The Durametric faq has a different sequence for booting up.

The indy shop said "check valve" is stuck shut, and they want to replace that valve and the "diverter" for $700, which seems in line with other recent quotes I've seen on these websites.

That brings me to another point that makes the bar high for me to DIY. I have the Diagnostics flowcharts and for these codes, the exploded parts diagram calls these valves by entirely different names: Air change-over valve, electric change-over valve, and Non-return valve. I can only guess what is what and how to order based on the indy's diag. writeup.

My indy wrote that only two need replacing: "diverter" and "check". Why wouldn't all three be replaced? I'll have to call and ask I guess. It is like trying to ask a doctor something and all you get is the receptionist who is nice enough but is just as ignorant as me and cannot answer the question.

Eta: the nice receptionist let me talk to tech #1. Tech #1 said the electronic valve was ok,or probably ok, and the failures are mostly in the purely mechanical valves. They are trying to distinguish themselves from a dealership and not shotgun the repair. Sounds reasonable and they said fine on going ahead with replacing the e valve as well.

Very well respected shop in my area so I trust them, I just have to know the wheres and whys. Personality defect on my part I suppose.


Last edited by huskyrunnr; 10-07-2015 at 08:11 PM. Reason: Explained
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