[huskyrunnr]

Thanks, very clear. I'll try that sequence when I get a chance. The Durametric faq has a different sequence for booting up.

The indy shop said "check valve" is stuck shut, and they want to replace that valve and the "diverter" for $700, which seems in line with other recent quotes I've seen on these websites.

That brings me to another point that makes the bar high for me to DIY. I have the Diagnostics flowcharts and for these codes, the exploded parts diagram calls these valves by entirely different names: Air change-over valve, electric change-over valve, and Non-return valve. I can only guess what is what and how to order based on the indy's diag. writeup.

My indy wrote that only two need replacing: "diverter" and "check". Why wouldn't all three be replaced? I'll have to call and ask I guess. It is like trying to ask a doctor something and all you get is the receptionist who is nice enough but is just as ignorant as me and cannot answer the question.

Eta: the nice receptionist let me talk to tech #1. Tech #1 said the electronic valve was ok,or probably ok, and the failures are mostly in the purely mechanical valves. They are trying to distinguish themselves from a dealership and not shotgun the repair. Sounds reasonable and they said fine on going ahead with replacing the e valve as well.

Very well respected shop in my area so I trust them, I just have to know the wheres and whys. Personality defect on my part I suppose.