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Old 06-16-2015, 12:20 PM   #1
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feels like a missfire fault codes getting annoying.

hi,

oil covered engine due to aos vent line issue, now resolved.

oil cleaned up,
every connector in the vacinity cleaned with electrical cleaner,
maf cleaned, throttle body and intake cleaned,
new bosch plugs and coils fitted.

fault codes,

p1340 - camshaft position with respect to crankshaft bank 1 below limit value
p1341 - camshaft adjustment bank 1 exceeds limit value
p0150 - o2 sensor ahead of catalytic converter bank 2 signal implausable,
p0130 - 02 sensor ahead of catalytic converter bank 1 signal implausable,
p1126 - oxygen sensing adaption lower load range bank 1 exceeds limit value,

so cleaned cat electrical connections again today, not much difference.
looking at the codes all is bank 1 except the other o2 sensor, if the o2 sensors were the cause then i would expect to see the same codes also for bank 2?
so im thinking bank 1 cam solenoid? or is it possible to have jumped a link on just bank 1?

it starts fine but idles lumpy, its lumpy if i use too much throttle untill about 3k revs, worse uphill, would this hapen if bank 1 cam solenoid stuck in the position it would be in if the car was under heavy acceleration?

could the o2 sensors just be dead because its been burning oil due to the aos? can i swap them with the ones after the cat to see if fault follows them or are they a diferent type?

should i pull bank 1 cam solenoid and check it?

any ideas
cheers
barks

Last edited by barks; 06-16-2015 at 12:29 PM.
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Old 06-16-2015, 12:49 PM   #2
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I ordered new O2 sensors for my car. The sensors themselves look the same externally, but the manufacture numbers are different and wires are different lengths. You probably won't be able to switch them around due to the wires not being the same length even if they are the same sensors.
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Old 06-16-2015, 01:02 PM   #3
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ok, thanks for reply,

anyone know if its possible that a bad maf can affect only bank1?
would it be wise to unplug maf, reset codes and drive it, then see if same codes come back?

cheers
barks

Last edited by barks; 06-16-2015 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 06-16-2015, 01:52 PM   #4
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You have a ROW spec car in the UK. Unlike in the US, there is no bank 2 interrogation using the diagnostic system - my Australian delivered car is the same. Don't ask me why.....
I think you need some specialised, professional advise on this.
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Old 06-17-2015, 10:41 PM   #5
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i cant believe that if the timing was out on bank 2 it wouldnt tell me?
but if thats true then the same issue could be with bank 2 and both caused by o2 sensors.

unplugged maf seams a bit better,

i looked to see if i could swap the front and rear o2 sensors and they look the same.
looking under the car i only have 2 rear cats?

manifold-curved straight through pipe with an o2 sensor in it-rear cat with o2 after it-silencer

ive read that faults codes can differ with dme revision so checking that to make sure.

if the mechanic that did the compresion test didnt dissable the ignition system would it be possible that an arcking coil pack could have trashed the dme ?

regards
barks
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Old 06-18-2015, 03:30 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barks View Post
i cant believe that if the timing was out on bank 2 it wouldnt tell me?
but if thats true then the same issue could be with bank 2 and both caused by o2 sensors.

unplugged maf seams a bit better,

i looked to see if i could swap the front and rear o2 sensors and they look the same.
looking under the car i only have 2 rear cats?

manifold-curved straight through pipe with an o2 sensor in it-rear cat with o2 after it-silencer

ive read that faults codes can differ with dme revision so checking that to make sure.

if the mechanic that did the compresion test didnt dissable the ignition system would it be possible that an arcking coil pack could have trashed the dme ?

regards
barks
If you unplugged the mass air flow sensor and it runs better doesn't that mean the mass air flow sensor is the issue? Did you try cleaning it?
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Old 06-18-2015, 09:39 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by barks View Post
hi,

oil covered engine due to aos vent line issue, now resolved.

oil cleaned up,
every connector in the vacinity cleaned with electrical cleaner,
maf cleaned, throttle body and intake cleaned,
new bosch plugs and coils fitted.

fault codes,

p1340 - camshaft position with respect to crankshaft bank 1 below limit value
p1341 - camshaft adjustment bank 1 exceeds limit value
p0150 - o2 sensor ahead of catalytic converter bank 2 signal implausable,
p0130 - 02 sensor ahead of catalytic converter bank 1 signal implausable,
p1126 - oxygen sensing adaption lower load range bank 1 exceeds limit value,

so cleaned cat electrical connections again today, not much difference.
looking at the codes all is bank 1 except the other o2 sensor, if the o2 sensors were the cause then i would expect to see the same codes also for bank 2?
so im thinking bank 1 cam solenoid? or is it possible to have jumped a link on just bank 1?

it starts fine but idles lumpy, its lumpy if i use too much throttle untill about 3k revs, worse uphill, would this hapen if bank 1 cam solenoid stuck in the position it would be in if the car was under heavy acceleration?

could the o2 sensors just be dead because its been burning oil due to the aos? can i swap them with the ones after the cat to see if fault follows them or are they a diferent type?

should i pull bank 1 cam solenoid and check it?

any ideas
cheers
barks
You should never clean the electrical connection plugs for the O2 sensors with contact cleaner, it can cause the sensors to stop reading.
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Old 06-18-2015, 11:58 AM   #8
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thanks for replies guys,

yes it was better with maf unplugged but not perfect, (maybe because it needs 2 o2 sensors).

i unplugged maf disconnected battery for 30 seconds and drove it 50 mile,
after which there were only 3 codes;-

p0102 - hot film maf sensor below limit value
p0130 - o2 sensor bank 1
p0150 - o2 sensor bank 2

so this would suggest the maf is throwing the codes i had before for bank 1 issues.?

couldnt swap the o2 sensors today as they are rusted in,

if a perfectly fine boxster had both o2 sensors disconnected how would it run?

cheers
barks
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Old 06-19-2015, 10:50 AM   #9
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hi,

plugged maf back in, reset everything and drove it 50 mile,
now i have both o2 sensors again and the p1340

so,,, the maf could be faulty throwing the p1340 code or when its unpluged the dme uses the default settings but when the mafs pluged in its trying to ajust the timing and fuel ratio but cant due to the o2 sensors.

looked at the o2 sensors real time,
the rear are both fine and giving a constant reading which is exactly what it should be.

the front o2 sensors which are throwing the codes are flat lined reading zero?? this seams odd to me not even reading 0.001 ect, i need to plug a new one in before i fit it maybe.

has anyone else had an o2 sensor reading zero?

signal implausable, if it was a connection it would say open circuit.

also the system stayed open even when warm, never closed loop. this will over fuel it surely

picking up the new vent line and connection piece in the morning then off to work to fit it, also replacing oil filler tube o ring whilst its in bits..

then will buy 2 o2 sensors and plug them in.

cheers
barks
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Old 06-21-2015, 07:37 AM   #10
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well, just incase it helps anyone, i picked up the parts from porsche yesterday morning and fitted them. new pcv (that porsche call connection piece), vent line from pcv to aos and oil filler tube o ring.

well what a s**t job! took 6 hours with an hour break to puke cause i eat bad fruit for breakfast!
only removed rh intake just left in situe but bolts out, very awkward to get new pipe in but did it,
who ever designed the bolt for the filler tube to go just under the alternator fixing wants there b****ks chopping off...

pcv was blocked solid as was the end of the vent line.
all back together no smoke, no oil leaks.

just the stumbling/ hesitation issue now,

just reset ecu and throttle body, see how it drives tomoz.

ill ask again, is it possible that when the mechanic did the compression test (who i obviously wont use again and only did because he had a ramp and i got him to measure how much oil was in there), as he didnt dissable the ign system and left the coils plugged in that if the coil pack arcked to the block it could zap the ecu or o2 sensors?

anyone?

cheers
barks
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Old 06-21-2015, 11:22 PM   #11
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barks...

1) The chances of damaging he ECU / sensors by "arcing" the HT side of the coil pack to the block is remote, as that is exactly what the spark plugs do - the 100,000v (or whatever voltage the coils produce) jumps the air gap of the plug to the block. Many times per second.

2) If your coilpacks are cracked / damaged, then they will arc to the block and cause a misfire when wet - again this does not normally cause damage to the ECU.

I'm assuming the mechanic did the compression test by removing all the plugs and left the coil packs "hanging" and not connected while he turned the engine over on the starter motor to get the compression of each cylinder. At least that's how I have done it in the past although I tend to ground the coil packs to avoid voltage buildup & potential damage to the coils.
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Old 06-24-2015, 12:28 PM   #12
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thanks steve,
he removed all plugs but left the coils connected to the loom hanging,

anyhow i replaced all plugs and coil packs with bosch just to be sure they were good,

i have now replaced both o2 sensors before cat and they have been reading fine since and the system now stays in closed loop so using the sensors for mix.

car runs much better but still a small amount of stumbling at low revs so ive ordered new vacuum tube and a four way to make things better incase small leak as i know the resonance actuator connection is very loose.

just a word of warning, if you replace the aos dont use a jubilee clip on the lower bellows as mine ripped and had to fit a new one, also got the right clip.

no smoke at all now even on start up fixed, also no oil anywhere fixed,

i occasionally get a noise on startup, sounds like a playing card held in a spinning bicycle wheel,
when i rev it clears but can come back on decelleration ? hope its not can chain tensioner?

could it be a sticking exhaust lifter, would a treatment of engine flush and new oil maybe cure it?

hoping its exhaust as its a bit crap with rear clamps missing, ive ordered some.

getting there,

cheers
barks

Last edited by barks; 06-24-2015 at 01:16 PM.
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