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Old 12-27-2014, 05:17 AM   #1
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Immobilizer

Date code on my Immobilizer is 2007 which considering the car is a 2001 likely means a recall/upgrade etc. Any Boxster Historians or other Wise Guy Comments?
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Old 12-27-2014, 12:42 PM   #2
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I just checked two boxes from an '01 base and one from an '02 S. They all had an 01 date stamp and were part number: 996.618.262.01.

My guess is that your original module had water damage and was replaced with a new one from the factory. If the Immobilizer unit is replaced, the DME has to be re-programmed for it, or both replaced as a set along with the key.
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Old 12-27-2014, 02:08 PM   #3
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That does make sense. Bought this car with the rear window missing and bad motor. I have dewatered it now and am considering my next moves. Finding the IM treading water was a disappointment. Thinking that buying a motor with ECU, IM & instruments might work. Also considering the Renegade LS swap. Advice?
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Old 12-27-2014, 04:43 PM   #4
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That does make sense. Bought this car with the rear window missing and bad motor. I have dewatered it now and am considering my next moves. Finding the IM treading water was a disappointment. Thinking that buying a motor with ECU, IM & instruments might work. Also considering the Renegade LS swap. Advice?
If the carpet was soaked, then the immobilizer is probably bad. It is possible to open it up and clean/dry it, but usually they are corroded beyond what a simple repair can fix.
The Immobilizer, ECU ('DME' in Porsche terminology), and key-transponder all have to match. The DME is the re-programmable part.
I expect that even with an LS swap, you will want to replace the immobilizer to get the locks, trunk latches, and alarm systems to work.

How do you know that the engine is bad?

I am by no means an expert, but somehow I managed to take a flood damaged '01 with a bad engine (rod poking out through the case) and make it into a decent car. All it takes is stubbornness, a large set of tools, and a small stack of $100s.
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Old 12-28-2014, 02:44 AM   #5
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immobilizer

I did open it and it was UGLY! It was so bad I just assumed it could not possibly have worked. But, after reading your post, I realized my rear truck latch had worked and my top goes up and down. I had assumed these functions were outside the control of the IM, but now am eager to reconnect and try.

Do you know if my air bags will trigger with the seats out and the IM installed with the key on?
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Old 12-28-2014, 07:59 AM   #6
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Do you know if my air bags will trigger with the seats out and the IM installed with the key on
Yes..................
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Old 12-28-2014, 11:52 AM   #7
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Yes..................
I'm thinking that "Yes" means that it will trigger a fault and your SRS module will require a reset, not that your airbags will explode. I bet that your SRS module already needs to be reset.

I'm pretty sure that I have powered it up without seats, but then again, I may have had them plugged in, but not bolted.

Disclaimer: JFP is a Pro and knows this stuff. I am more of a trial-and-error guy. Don't put your face or any sharp objects in the line-of-fire just in case.
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Old 12-28-2014, 11:56 AM   #8
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I'm thinking that "Yes" means that it will trigger a fault and your SRS module will require a reset, not that your airbags will explode. I bet that your SRS module already needs to be reset.

I'm pretty sure that I have powered it up without seats, but then again, I may have had them plugged in, but not bolted.

Disclaimer: JFP is a Pro and knows this stuff. I am more of a trial-and-error guy. Don't put your face or any sharp objects in the line-of-fire just in case.
You are correct, I meant that it will force the car to code for an airbag fault.
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Old 12-28-2014, 01:05 PM   #9
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No seats

I was able to start mine up WITH NO SEATS IN after a motor swap and it cranked right up. Got lots of error codes but was able to clear them all. But I also am no expert. Get a second opinion...listen to JFP !!
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Old 12-28-2014, 07:09 PM   #10
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Yes, you will set an airbag fault if you turn on the ignition with the seats removed, but that airbag fault won't stop the car from starting. You will need Durametric or a factory tool to clear that. Yes, that immobilizer module can probably be repaired. If not, it IS possible to take the data from the damaged module and program into another used module. BTDT in mine.
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Old 12-29-2014, 11:28 AM   #11
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WD40 and tooth brush.. I've successfully cleaned them and had them work for 4-5years after the cleaning (one car sold to an East coast customer and it still runs)
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Old 01-02-2015, 07:55 PM   #12
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WD40 and tooth brush.. I've successfully cleaned them and had them work for 4-5years after the cleaning (one car sold to an East coast customer and it still runs)
Well, there are lots of things you could clean them with, and if you are lucky enough to just be dealing with a little corrosion, that can work. I haven't been that lucky. I personally wouldn't use WD40 as it can wick into the fiberglass of the PCB making repairs more difficult. Of course you can't argue with success... The ones that I have worked on needed relays, trace repairs and removal of many of the components to get to the corrosion.
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Old 01-04-2015, 02:18 PM   #13
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Removed seats & carpet and vacuumed up water, now totally dry. Reinstalled everything including dried out Immobilizer. I have lights, signals, wipers and trunk locks. Does this mean my IM is OK?
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Old 01-04-2015, 03:04 PM   #14
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Does it start?
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Old 01-04-2015, 03:12 PM   #15
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Does it start?
Or, as you implied that the engine isn't working, Does the starter crank?
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Old 01-05-2015, 03:05 AM   #16
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Car arrived with dead battery that had no response to my charger. It was also full of water which I have drained. I am using another battery which is too small so the cables don't reach the posts. So, my battery leads are #10AWG which cannot handle starting current which is why I don't want to try starting it. However, I would still like to determine if my IM is working, hence my question. B/C I have lights, signals etc. if I knew if these functions were controlled by the IM, I could move on in my punch list.
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Old 01-10-2015, 05:45 AM   #17
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amazing

So I put the carpet and seats back in along with the UGLY Immobilizer and plugged everything back together. Sat in the car depressed clutch and hit the starter and got a distinct relay type click. I can't believe it but that saturated IM still works!

Next, I plan to remove the motor which I would like to drop together with the tranny. Any thoughts on this?
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Old 01-10-2015, 08:33 AM   #18
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So I put the carpet and seats back in along with the UGLY Immobilizer and plugged everything back together. Sat in the car depressed clutch and hit the starter and got a distinct relay type click. I can't believe it but that saturated IM still works!

Next, I plan to remove the motor which I would like to drop together with the tranny. Any thoughts on this?
Congrats! It sounds a lot like the project I did on my white '01. I don't know what sort of shop and tools you have available. For me, with the car on fairly low jack stands it was best to remove the transmission, then engine.

I used the 101 projects book which is mostly summarized here: Pelican DIY

Supplemented with some searches here at the forum and a few quick looks in the Bentley manual. Check out the start of Flaps10's engine rebuild DIY too. Post a new thread if you run in to problems.
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