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Old 05-07-2014, 06:01 AM   #1
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Buttoned up my oil sump cover last night, added some oil today, leak checking?

I got my EBS baffle installed last night and got the sump cover back on. I didn't take any photos because I was by myself and I was afraid the Loctite 5900 was going to set up before I could get the pan on and torqued.

I added 3 quarts of oil today. I am going to let it sit and watch for leaks. Although if there are any I will probably add the rest of the oil and drive it to a shop to see if they can redo it for me

Does anybody know how long it would be before a leak would appear? Right away? After I drive it and get the oil hot/thinner?

I used a razor blade scraper to remove the old sealant, followed by using a brass bristled brush to remove the remainder of the sealant. Then I used a cloth with acetone and then a cloth with denatured alcohol. I was able to get both surfaces very clean.

Putting the bead of sealant was very hard. Maybe I didn't cut the hole big enough or something (the hole in the tip must be small to make a small bead but maybe the hole I made on the tube itself was too small) but it was hard as #$%^ to squeeze out of the tube. After my first attempt on one side I stopped, wiped it off with a cloth with denatured alcohol, opened the tip a bit more, and continued.

For me the best result was when I didn't stop and could make a long continuous bead. Stopping and starting was hard, the bead of sealant wanted to curl around. I went around the outside of the bolt holes first, and then went back and connected the line so it went on the inside of the bolt holes.

If there ever is a next time I will look into some sort of squeeze handle tool like a caulk gun or some assisted way to squeeze/force out that Loctite.

The good:
Except for the back edge of the pan, where the cover seems to very slightly overhang where it bolts onto the bottom of the motor, and so I can't see there, I can see a tiny continuous amount of the black Loctite 5900 sealant squeezed out all the way around. I don't see it where the bolts are (probably because the flange is wider there and my sealant was farther away from the edge at that point) but on the rest of the pan I can see a nice steady little amount of black sealant extruded from the flange.

The bad: I think I have a blister from pushing on that #$% tube of Loctite 5900

I let it set overnight and put 3 quarts in first thing this morning and so far no leaks. After work I am going to put in the rest of the oil and go take a little test drive
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:27 AM   #2
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The sump seal should be fine. Put the rest of the oil in and hit the road!
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:41 AM   #3
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The sump seal should be fine. Put the rest of the oil in and hit the road!
I am ready! It has been on the jack stands for abut a week and I am going through withdrawal...
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:50 AM   #4
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It will probably be fine. I am guessing, but I think most of us probably err on the side of putting too much 5900 on. It is difficult to get a really thin bead!
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:09 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by kjc2050 View Post
It will probably be fine. I am guessing, but I think most of us probably err on the side of putting too much 5900 on. It is difficult to get a really thin bead!
The spec is a bead 1.5mm thick. That is a very little bit. In this application, less is more.
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:12 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steved0x View Post
I got my EBS baffle installed last night and got the sump cover back on. I didn't take any photos because I was by myself and I was afraid the Loctite 5900 was going to set up before I could get the pan on and torqued.

I added 3 quarts of oil today. I am going to let it sit and watch for leaks. Although if there are any I will probably add the rest of the oil and drive it to a shop to see if they can redo it for me

Does anybody know how long it would be before a leak would appear? Right away? After I drive it and get the oil hot/thinner?

I used a razor blade scraper to remove the old sealant, followed by using a brass bristled brush to remove the remainder of the sealant. Then I used a cloth with acetone and then a cloth with denatured alcohol. I was able to get both surfaces very clean.

Putting the bead of sealant was very hard. Maybe I didn't cut the hole big enough or something (the hole in the tip must be small to make a small bead but maybe the hole I made on the tube itself was too small) but it was hard as #$%^ to squeeze out of the tube. After my first attempt on one side I stopped, wiped it off with a cloth with denatured alcohol, opened the tip a bit more, and continued.

For me the best result was when I didn't stop and could make a long continuous bead. Stopping and starting was hard, the bead of sealant wanted to curl around. I went around the outside of the bolt holes first, and then went back and connected the line so it went on the inside of the bolt holes.

If there ever is a next time I will look into some sort of squeeze handle tool like a caulk gun or some assisted way to squeeze/force out that Loctite.

The good:
Except for the back edge of the pan, where the cover seems to very slightly overhang where it bolts onto the bottom of the motor, and so I can't see there, I can see a tiny continuous amount of the black Loctite 5900 sealant squeezed out all the way around. I don't see it where the bolts are (probably because the flange is wider there and my sealant was farther away from the edge at that point) but on the rest of the pan I can see a nice steady little amount of black sealant extruded from the flange.

The bad: I think I have a blister from pushing on that #$% tube of Loctite 5900

I let it set overnight and put 3 quarts in first thing this morning and so far no leaks. After work I am going to put in the rest of the oil and go take a little test drive
I had the same problem. I haven't done this, but next time I drop the sump plate, I'm going to put the tube of sealant in very hot water for an hour or so before I seal it. Hopefully when its hot, it will flow better.
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1979 Lancia Beta Coupe
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1989 Porsche 944
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1989 (?) Alfa Romeo Milano
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:18 AM   #7
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Did mine a couple weeks back
I Let the 5900 sit 20 hrs before adding oil to harden. Then added 2-3 quarts and watched for a day
Then filled and have been keeping an eye to make sure
My 50ml tube from Pelican was so, so hard to push through that small opening. It was very hard to control the bead putting that much pressure on the tubes plunger
I put on the engine side while laying on my back under the car.
I will pull again at next 6 month, this time apply to the flange side
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Old 05-07-2014, 10:49 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kk2002s View Post
Did mine a couple weeks back
I Let the 5900 sit 20 hrs before adding oil to harden. Then added 2-3 quarts and watched for a day
Then filled and have been keeping an eye to make sure
My 50ml tube from Pelican was so, so hard to push through that small opening. It was very hard to control the bead putting that much pressure on the tubes plunger
I put on the engine side while laying on my back under the car.
I will pull again at next 6 month, this time apply to the flange side
I like your idea. I think that may have been easier than putting it on the plate...

The hot water is a good idea too.

Hopefully I don't have to redo it for a long time

I think mine set for about 12 hours before I put the oil in. I still haven't cranked it up.

1.5 mm... I think I was pretty close to that. When I connected my line of sealant to make a circle around each bolt hole I did all my overlaps toward the outer edge. I think I am good. I am going to take it out for a drive tonight once I get the wheels back on and get it down from the jack stands and get it nice and hot. I can't wait. I need to put a few miles on the tires and wear away the remnants of tire label etc. that is on there...
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:02 AM   #9
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Just checked and still dry as a bone under there
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Old 05-07-2014, 11:04 AM   #10
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Glad to know it wasn't just me getting weaker! The loctite gasket stuff is really difficult to squeeze out! Does warming it help?
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