Best Induction System for 'S'

[JP-s-in st. louis]

same topic on 6speed check it out.

http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42756

[spgribben007]

After reading MNBoxster's reply I'm deffinitely interested in doing this mod. There are several places I've noticed that sells front strut braces and rear strut braces both never that I've seen as a set (front and back). Do I concentrate in getting the front strut brace or the rear or should I get both? I've learned soooo much on this site. Thanks, Steve

[Brucelee]

Personally, I would do them both.

Let us know what you think!

[MNBoxster]

Originally Posted by spgribben007

After reading MNBoxster's reply I'm deffinitely interested in doing this mod. There are several places I've noticed that sells front strut braces and rear strut braces both never that I've seen as a set (front and back). Do I concentrate in getting the front strut brace or the rear or should I get both? I've learned soooo much on this site. Thanks, Steve

Hi,

As Bruce says, do them both. Each helps tremendously, but the combined effect is greater than the Sum.

Installation is easy. Car on Level Ground.

Front: Remove Inspection Covers and Battery Cover. Loosen Battery Hold-down Mount (10mm) and move to front edge of Battery Tray to allow the CrossBrace to fit behind it (I also prefer to disconnect the Battery to eliminate the possibility of accidentally shorting the Terminals if the Brace or tool contacts them - not truly necessary, but a precaution). Align Strut Tower Brace Mounts with 2 of the 3 (13mm) Nuts coming out of the Strut Tower. Loosen the appropriate Nuts (leave the 3rd one tight to avoid loosing Camber Setting). Extend CrossBrace so that it will allow the Mount Holes to align with the top of the 2 Studs on each side. Place Mounts onto Studs and replace Nuts, tightening to 26 ft. lbs. (No more of the Studs can snap). Extend CrossBrace fully and tighten LockNuts (17mm?) Tighten down Battery and replace Inspection Covers and Battery Cover.

Rear: Put Top in Service Position. Pull back Foam Insulation covering the Strut Towers. Extend CrossBrace to allow Mounts to align with Studs. Remove the appropriate 2 Nuts (13mm) from each side and place Mounts over Studs. Replace Nuts and tighten to 26 ft. lbs. Extend CrossBrace so that Heim Joints can slip over Mounting Studs on the Brace Mounts (this can be a little tight), taking care not to pinch Convertible Top Cables. Tighten NyLock Nuts onto Strut Brace Mounts and tighten CrossBar Lock Nuts. Replace Top.

It should take you no longer than 20 min. per Brace, probably less. Good Luck...

Happy Motoring!... Jim'99

[2000SoCalBoxsterS]

I Agree. The Boxster is made for the curves not the quarter mile. Not much you can do with these cars to increase HP. Even for my 3.2L 250 HP S. You can spend $3,800 for the complete Fabspeed exhaust system plus they want another $1,494 for their performance flash program and claim a 35 HP gain. I can't really use all the HP I have now without losing my license so spending $5,200 bucks for 35 more horse is probably unnecessary. I will do the secondaryCat bypasspipes and GHL exhaust for slight HP pickup but mostly for sound, the strut tower braces and lower Ernie bar for the lower rear suspension, and lighten up the car with some Recaro racing sport seats and lighter alloy wheels and that will do it for me.

For those who missed it I give you the "Ernie bar"

Driving Impressions: Lower Stress Bar

[David N.]

$5200 huh? For less you can get a fantastic one-liter, and it'll smoke anything that can't run a sub-11 (and finding parking on it rocks!). AND it can turn, too!

-David