Another IMS bearing thread

[thom4782]

Charles and Jake:

Wow, I just saw your Gen 2 page on the IMS Retrofit website and I’m blown away. It's the most innovative IMSB advance I’ve seen since you guys released the IMS Solution. Most importantly, Gen 2’s angular, dual row design directly takes on and solves the single row’s thrust and radial load carrying capacity problem that I’ve been calling to attention of forum readers for some time now.

Thom

PS: How does Gen 2's price point compare to the IMS Solution and the original single row Retrofit?

[Jamesp]

Interesting, The bearing looks wider than a single row. Does the outer bearing shell stand proud of the IMS shaft?

[Jake Raby]

Originally Posted by Jamesp

Interesting, The bearing looks wider than a single row. Does the outer bearing shell stand proud of the IMS shaft?

No, watch the video and you'll see that the custom dual row bearing fits flush with the end of the IMS bearing housing.

Accomplishing this was far from easy, in many ways this development offered more challenges than the IMS Solution did.

The magic comes from The Faultless Tool..

[Walter White]

Do you cut a new groove in the IM shaft for the lock wire?

[Jake Raby]

Originally Posted by Walter White

Do you cut a new groove in the IM shaft for the lock wire?

Nope, and totally un-necessary. The position of the groove and the diameter, tension and design of the internal wire lock were all developed to specifically park in the optimum position for bearing retention. The Dual Row bearing when properly fitted to the Single Row shaft requires exceptional force to remove, which can only be accomplished with the Faultless Tool which provides support at both the IMS flange and the bell house equally.

No machining necessary, this is a total in-car retrofit when utilizing the Faultless tool. Thats why its an entire retrofit system.

[Jake Raby]

Thom4782,

The Gen 2 arrangement is priced at 799.00, whereas the IMS Solution is 1759.00. The Faultless installation tool thats required to fit the Gen 2 dual row bearing into a single row shaft is a very high quality piece thats built like a Panzer and that cost 729.00.

The good news is the Faultless tool will last for thousands of installs, so while it is costly, people will love to add it to their tool box, because of what it does and how awesome it is, carrying out extractions and installations of all IMS Bearing technologies developed by our group.

With the Single Row Pro bearing kit, the challenge of fitting a dual row IMS Bearing to a single row shaft is no longer a mystery.

While the Gen 2 will never offer the same characteristics as the IMS Solution, it's 1,000.00 price point difference will bridge the gap in regard to more load carrying capacity at a much lesser cost. The IMS Solution remains king of the IMS game for those who have the money.

Two Rows Are Better Than One.

[Bfan]

Thanks Jake. I am amazed - again

[Steve Tinker]

Now lets see the "opposition" jump on the bandwagon & start the diatribe scramble to poo-poo this great idea.....

[Jake Raby]

Originally Posted by Steve Tinker

Now lets see the "opposition" jump on the bandwagon & start the diatribe scramble to poo-poo this great idea.....

It would have been so much better for them if they would have chosen to work with us, rather than against us. Best friend or worst enemy; there's only two choices when dealing with my breed. We never quit, we never give up and we live for resistance.

Thanks Jake. I am amazed - again

Just wait till you see what I have saved for last.

[Jager]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

Just wait till you see what I have saved for last.

DVD's on how to rebuild a M96?? I have been patiently waiting.

[Walter White]

James, I use a very sophisticated graphics program that takes a very powerful computer and extensive training. MS Paint. I am Paint certified.
Can this be done with the engine in the car?

I have another question for you. Is it possible to get a wrench on the IMSB bolt nut when the flywheel, clutch and tranny is installed if there were an access port in the bell housing. Or is the flywheel just too close. Is there any recess in the back of the flywheel that might allow access to that nut with a wrench when the flywheel is in a certain position.

[Jamesp]

Originally Posted by Walter White

James, I use a very sophisticated graphics program that takes a very powerful computer and extensive training. MS Paint. I am Paint certified.
Can this be done with the engine in the car?

I have another question for you. Is it possible to get a wrench on the IMSB bolt nut when the flywheel, clutch and tranny is installed if there were an access port in the bell housing. Or is the flywheel just too close. Is there any recess in the back of the flywheel that might allow access to that nut with a wrench when the flywheel is in a certain position.

Should be able to be done with the engine in the car.

No way I can see of getting the the IMSB with tranny and flywheel installed. No place for an access port - its all load bearing/ primary structure

[Van914]

Jake,
Nice selfe!

[Jake Raby]

Originally Posted by Van914

Jake,
Nice selfe!

I didn't even have to photoshop it! Although I think I have gotten too much sun lately...

[Walter White]

After I exhaled I am not so high on grease anymore.



While testing the seals on the Nachi bearing, I was surprised to feel and hear any clunking from the bearing even with grease in it. I get a lot of that when spinning the bearings dry, but didn't expect any when greased, but there is still some of that going on even with grease. I assume it is bits of debris getting caught between the balls and race, or the cage getting in a jam.

After a couple hours, what started out as a golden honey-like grease has turned to black goo. I am now thinking the grease may not be as good a lubricant as a continuous flow of oil. So I think I will go back to the oil route.

One thing I do know, before my new bearing goes into my Box, it is going to be run in grease for 3 minutes, cleaned and re-greased, run for 20 minutes, clean and re-grease, then run for 3 hours on the test stand before being oiled and installed.

[Jake Raby]

So I think I will go back to the oil route.

If feeding directly into the bearing you might want to do a Patent search first.

Thats the case for anyone wanting to develop an IMS fix, don't assume that its not in existence just because you haven't heard that it is.

And no longer is something a quality product just because its patented, there are instances where the bad ideas are protected simply as flanking maneuvers.

[Jamesp]

[QUOTE=Walter White;381890]So I think I will go back to the oil route.QUOTE]

Grease is used successfully in many bearings. Ask just about any electric motor or wheel you know.

But if you want to go oil, try to skip the hoses and fittings and go straight to the source. You should be able to introduce oil directly through the oil pump drive key into the IMS shaft, and I have the start of an idea of how to do it with a very minimum of structural compensation to the drive key. Another item, I keep seeing things about sealing the IMS, a "lightly pressed" assembly. I do a lot of crazy things but making a pressure vessel that undergoes frequent thermal / pressure cycles (while bathed in oil and undergoing structural cyclical stress and strain no less) out of a lightly pressed assembly is not one of them. My sense is those forces are likely to take that assembly apart over time.

[Walter White]

Yeah, I don't really want to run pipe or tubing anywhere.
But I am pretty sure I want to feed my bearing indirectly with oil. The cooler and cleaner the oil the better.



I have been testing the partially open seal design and so far, measuring the oil that comes out, I calculate that 10cc/min or less may be enough. I may see if some design changes to the seal will reduce consumption. But the most important thing is to keep the oil moving through to keep the bearing clean.

I can't remember my exact calculations on the pressure of sealing the IM shaft but I think it was a difference of 30 psi from 0 to 300*F. So if the shaft were sealed with an air temperature of 70*F, the maximum pressure it would see is about +23 psi, and a minimum of about -7 psi. Since the plug would be near the end of the shaft, I think the sprocket assembly outside the shaft will provide plenty of support. I don't think it would be as stressed as if it were near the middle of the shaft. I think a plastic cam plug with some Loctite or similar adhesive would probably work. Maybe install two plugs, back-to-back.

[Jake Raby]

You need an engine in front of you. The oil path and the configuration posted are two different things.

Someone else has used this configuration to develop a component and made a critical mistake, actually more than one.

[Jamesp]

Originally Posted by Jake Raby

You need an engine in front of you. The oil path and the configuration posted are two different things.

Someone else has used this configuration to develop a component and made a critical mistake, actually more than one.

Too true. What is #6 om the schematic? that seems to be the place where the proposed oil stealing occurs, but the schematic has no detail in that area, and why should it? oil is not supposed to pass that barrier.