AC line failure Mode?

[jaykay]

I was in my engine compartment and noticed this. I haven't had a close look at what the hose/line does but it appears to be an AC coolant line. Are these insulated with and inner sheath inside or am I in trouble right now? Looks like a B___ to change.....probably a firewall access thing. Is there an in situ repair solution that would hold for a bit?

Anyway wanted to advise all to check rubbing of their shifter cables on this line. I will have have to pad or tie up the cables somehow.

[Meir]

i'm about to replace my sifter cables this week.
ill have a look and see if i have the same issue.
will update towards the and of the week.
thanks jaykay.

[jaykay]

Has anyone changed out an AC pressure line? I can see one end near the compressor. The other end goes down to the bottom right hand side of the car... And then presumably forward. Can the line he pulled out and inserted from the bottom?


What caps/fittings are needed to capture coolant during the change? I was thinking of changing it out myself and then getting a coolant charge after that

[jaykay]

Originally Posted by Meir

i'm about to replace my sifter cables this week.
ill have a look and see if i have the same issue.
will update towards the and of the week.
thanks jaykay.

You are welcome. What did you find?

[Meir]

Originally Posted by jaykay

You are welcome. What did you find?

holly s****t, completely forgot about it.
i still have the car open, so ill have a look at it tonight.
now, let me give you some pointers.
1. have a look at this diagram to have a better perspective of where everything goes.
Porsche Boxster Refrigerant Circuit Parts
parts 7 and 8 are the rear lines that goes from the compressor to under the car body.
2. there is no "nice" way to catch the Freon (the coolant as you call it) without the proper equipment. the Freon and the AC oil, are pressurized in the system, so if you will disconnect one of the lines with the system still charged, it can end up really ugly.
if you do insist on doing it yourself, the only place you can drain the system safely, is at the low pressure valve (located at the passenger side in the frank, next to the cabin air filter).


remove the black cup, place a rag on top of the valve, and gently press it with a thin screwdriver, just like you are inflating a tire.
as you can see from my picture, this process is pretty messy. also be careful not to freeze your hands (or any other parts of your body) .
looking back, this is definitely something you want a professional to do. you can go to the same guy you are planing to use to charge the system, and ask him to evacuate it. he might be able to save the Freon for you, and reuse it in the charging process, but i'm not sure about that.
3. replace the O-rings in any "link point" that you opened.
4. replace the "receiver dryer". this is the "can" located on the driver side next to the shock tower (part 3 in the diagram). as i learned in this forum, this "can" is collecting the moister from the AC system. since you opened the system, moister gets in. moister = rust, and you don't want that. you can get a good after market dryer for 20$.
hope it helps, and good luck.
Meir.

[san rensho]

I did what Meir describes on my Saab when I replaced a leaking hose on it. I just capped the openings as soon as i disconnected the hose to minimize the air getting into the system. After replacing the hose, I refilled it with 2 or 3 cans of R134 and it worked fine for years.

Not very environmentally friendly and not very accurate on the oil/refrigerant ratio, but what can I say. If I had to do it on my P-car, I would replace the parts myself, and then bite the bullet and have an AC shop evacuate and refill the system to make sure the refrigerant and oil are up to spec.

[jaykay]

Thanks guys I will have a look...maybe I can rig up a schrader lock to drain the system....its getting cold and wintery here. I have to hurry if I am going to tackle this! Yeah coolant...I was thinking about a gas cooled....at the time.

I think my no. seven line is gouged

[Meir]

Hi jaykay.
I looked at my car tonight, and no signs of wear at all. In fact, the shifter cables are not even close to touching the AC lines. The only thing i can see happen, is the two lines rubbing agains each other, bet in my car they are secure with a plastic clip( or something like that). From looking at your pics again, it looks like the damaged line is misplaced. I took some pictures for you, and will post them in the morning.
I hope it will help you figure it out.
+ 1 on what San said.
I recently replaced the AC evaporator in my car. Did all the work myself (saved 2-3k).
But took the car to the AC shop for evacuation and recharge (when the job was done).
Total cost of AC shop 260$.

[Meir]

not the best pics, but this is the one showing the plastic clip/holder:

this one was taken from inside the car, with the firewall removed:



hope it helps.

[jaykay]

Thanks. Yes shifter cables and lines are in different spots; maybe I can zip tie my cables away from the AC stuff.

So I take it an AC shop can evacuate and fill the system from the valve in the frunk.

I just have figure out how this line can come out

[Meir]

Originally Posted by jaykay

Thanks. Yes shifter cables and lines are in different spots; maybe I can zip tie my cables away from the AC stuff.

So I take it an AC shop can evacuate and fill the system from the valve in the frunk.

yes.

[/QUOTE]I just have figure out how this line can come out[/QUOTE]


i would start by disconnecting it from the compressor and from the bottom line, and try to pull it out thru the to engine cover.
it dose look a little bit crowded in there, so you might have to move some other parts a side.
you will definitely get a better picture once the line will be disconnected on both sides.
take a lot of pictures. it will help you put every thing back in place.