08-08-2012, 08:01 AM
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#21
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DIY extremist
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brooklyn
Posts: 348
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it's below the surface of the case, I believe. I was late for dinner already when it happened last night, so I just left before getting any more frustrated. I'll take some pics when I head back to the garage today. Fortunately, it shouldn't be too hard to remove due to the lube in the hole and the low torque that was applied getting it in (I hope,  ), and if I drill, I can cover up the other side of the hole. THe chances of having it on the road this weekend are slim, but I'm going to try.
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"Betty" -- 2000 Boxster S, Triple Black, loaded except PSM (sold to a good home)
"Veronica" -- 2008 Boxster S, Arctic Silver on Blue
"Maleficent" -- 2007 Cayman S, Red and Black, TPC Turbo 3.6L 460 RWHP, H&R RSS Coilover / TPC stage 2 suspension
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08-08-2012, 01:18 PM
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#22
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: US, Calif
Posts: 72
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Hopefully a reverse drill bit will work. I've even had luck with a dab of epoxy on a nail head and slowly backed a bolt out once. But, you're right, since it didn't go in and jam and just the sealant is holding it may help with it's removal. Hopefully it won't hinder it turning. Yes, take a pic I'm sure others have ideas as well. Good Luck! Once you're back on the road this will all be in the past....
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08-08-2012, 04:12 PM
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#23
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DIY extremist
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brooklyn
Posts: 348
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So, bad got worse..... The plan was to drill into it a bit and then use a screw extractor to pull out the bolt shaft. While I went to the store to buy the appropriate extractor, the guy I have been working with drilled into the bolt. When I returned, he had drilled into it, and had chewed up the threads on the top side of the hole (see pic), making it impossible to use an extractor (should've done it myself I guess).
So, now the situation is that there is a 9mm (as measured) hole drilled into the case, with part of the old bolt still stuck inside. While it may still be possible to get the old bolt out, I don't want to take any chances of getting metal into the motor by drilling through, so I think creating a new, shallower threaded hole may be the way to go here. I am thinking that I will probably go ahead and try to clean up the hole to remove the first 9mm of old bolt, then tap the next larger diameter of metric threads into that. This job is becoming a nightmare.
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"Betty" -- 2000 Boxster S, Triple Black, loaded except PSM (sold to a good home)
"Veronica" -- 2008 Boxster S, Arctic Silver on Blue
"Maleficent" -- 2007 Cayman S, Red and Black, TPC Turbo 3.6L 460 RWHP, H&R RSS Coilover / TPC stage 2 suspension
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08-08-2012, 04:14 PM
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#24
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DIY extremist
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brooklyn
Posts: 348
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this is the photo (it's actually the bottom r-hand hole)
__________________
"Betty" -- 2000 Boxster S, Triple Black, loaded except PSM (sold to a good home)
"Veronica" -- 2008 Boxster S, Arctic Silver on Blue
"Maleficent" -- 2007 Cayman S, Red and Black, TPC Turbo 3.6L 460 RWHP, H&R RSS Coilover / TPC stage 2 suspension
Last edited by black_box; 08-08-2012 at 04:17 PM.
Reason: photo orientation
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08-08-2012, 04:32 PM
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#25
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: US, Calif
Posts: 72
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Ghezzz, it did go from bad to worse. Do you know anyone that is a machinist? Might be worth having someone who works with this stuff daily come over and take a look. Might even be worth putting the car on a flatbed and taking it to a machine shop or someone similar. Hate to go to that length but at this point it might be better than having to pull the engine and punch a new hole. Again, just a thought. I feel for you, been there done that on past car projects.
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08-08-2012, 04:48 PM
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#26
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Theoretical propagandist
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 793
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You may want to call a shop that offers EDM (electro discharge machining) capability. Normally this can be found at diesel shops. They can mount of a portable EDM to the block and get this out then you can either keensert/helicoil or somehow refresh the threads.
Sorry to hear you are dealing with this...I hope you end up having a good outcome.
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When life throws you curves, aim for the apex...
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08-08-2012, 10:45 PM
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#27
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: France
Posts: 32
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Looking at the picture, I would try this:
With a flat screw driver, try to make it rotate, hitting it from the side very slowly on the upper part where the metal is thick.
Stop if you see that it is not moving,
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08-09-2012, 04:55 AM
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#28
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Winnipeg MB
Posts: 2,485
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Future reference on drilling bolts...
File the broken stud end flat. Center-punch the exact center of the stud. This is the most important step because if you are off-center by even a little bit then chances are you will get fuct when you drill. Start with a very small drill bit and work your way up to not larger than the tap drill size. Now run a tap through the hole. Smear some grease on the tap first so it holds the chips and doesn't drop them inside the case.
This method has worked for me flawlessly many times. I don't even bother with screw extrators as I have found that even the good ones don't work most of the time. Once I had one snap off in the hole. Now try and get the bolt out with a hardened extractor snapped off in there!
Good luck with the fix. Looking at your pic with that off-center hole I'm thinking that your only way out of this one is going to be an over-size hole and a heli-coil. I would respectfully and kindly suggest that you should farm that job out as you do seem to be in a little over your head here.
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'99 black 986
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08-09-2012, 05:23 AM
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#29
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DIY extremist
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brooklyn
Posts: 348
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Yeah Mark, you're right. I should've filed it down first. I did punch it myself, and it seemed pretty centered, but I guess not. Helicoil is probably the best way to go now, although I am nervous about going all the way through with it. Having 9 out 16mm of the original hole should be safe and is a lot less scary than drilling completely through the case and possibly dropping metal chunks in.
I did try the screwdriver trick, BTW, no dice.
Real question to me: WTF happened to the original bolt? I checked the torque wrench against another one that has a indicator instead of a click (by pulling and redriving a random bolt in a metal door frame), and it was true to within 1 ft-lb at 8ft-lb's. So the bolt that pelican shipped me snapped with less than 8 ft-lb's??? That's crazy. I must be cursed on this job.
__________________
"Betty" -- 2000 Boxster S, Triple Black, loaded except PSM (sold to a good home)
"Veronica" -- 2008 Boxster S, Arctic Silver on Blue
"Maleficent" -- 2007 Cayman S, Red and Black, TPC Turbo 3.6L 460 RWHP, H&R RSS Coilover / TPC stage 2 suspension
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08-09-2012, 08:34 AM
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#30
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: US, Calif
Posts: 72
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08-09-2012, 05:06 PM
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#31
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DIY extremist
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Brooklyn
Posts: 348
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Went ahead and helicoiled it for the original size threads, with what was left of the old bolt still stuck in there! I did some measurements, and it's not possible that the old bolt is protruding past the case, but to be safe I dropped a big dollop of JB Weld behind the helicoil to permanently fix the old bolt in place and anchor the helicoil (due to there not being any fixed stop behind it).
__________________
"Betty" -- 2000 Boxster S, Triple Black, loaded except PSM (sold to a good home)
"Veronica" -- 2008 Boxster S, Arctic Silver on Blue
"Maleficent" -- 2007 Cayman S, Red and Black, TPC Turbo 3.6L 460 RWHP, H&R RSS Coilover / TPC stage 2 suspension
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08-10-2012, 06:06 AM
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#32
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: US, Calif
Posts: 72
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Yay! Sounds like it's coming back together. Good deal!
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08-10-2012, 06:11 AM
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#33
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Winnipeg MB
Posts: 2,485
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Wow. I admire your persistence. I'd be on meds and in counselling already if I'd gone through this nightmare. Good for you!
__________________
'99 black 986
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08-12-2012, 12:57 PM
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#34
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 303
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seconded ! i'd probably be down a few bottles of J.D. by now !
as a tip i have a guy named the thread doctor, he does a lot of work for local garages, including porsche (and other main dealers) and some porsche specialists, he's had to right a few wrongs by specialists with head bolts snapping off. wehn time comes to do my headers i will be calling him to remove the bolts and i know that due to corrosion they *will* likely not go as planned.
it really is worthwhile finding a thread speacilist in the area and keeping hold of his cardso when things go bad its a phone call and an hour labor bill for removing the stress.
glad to hear its coming together though
__________________
986 x2 6sp
2x Range Rover Vogue 4.6
2004 MX5 Sport 6speed Strato Blue (wifelet)
2x Range Rover Classic & CSK
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