Lowering and geo question

[pothole]

What I'm really trying to understand is - if I got with H&R, what will be my limitations regards geo?

Will I not be able to get any negative camber on the front? Will I have to run tons of negative camber on the rear?

This is pretty much the opposite of what I want. I want to dial out as much of the understeer as possible, so I want to max out the front camber and keep the rear camber under control.

[jsceash]

What about the tires rubbing the fenders. This probably the biggest reason I've held off on any system. What do you do about that and whos coil overs don't require rolling your fenders.

[Topless]

Originally Posted by pothole

What I'm really trying to understand is - if I got with H&R, what will be my limitations regards geo?

As you lower the car, negative camber increases and the car tends to toe out. Getting 2-3 degrees negative camber while maintaining zero toe up front is the holy grail. Lowering the rear a touch is ok but it is easy to go too far and not achieve zero toe without adjustable control arms. Too low in the rear and handling goes out the window.

The simplest way to improve negative camber is by adding GT3 arms in front instead of changing springs as thstone has done. It does cost a bit more than springs but you can really dial in ideal settings in front. By only adding lowering springs you will lower the nose a fixed amount but your alignment results may be less than ideal.

I don't understand your term "geo setting". Are you asking about steering geometry and bump steer issues?

Jsceash,
Tires rubbing wheel wells is more of a wheel/tire issue than suspension issue. You can stuff 275s front and rear without rubbing if you choose your wheel offsets carefully.

[DFW02S]

Originally Posted by Topless

...
I don't understand your term "geo setting". Are you asking about steering geometry and bump steer issues?
..........

Geo = alignment.