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Old 02-13-2012, 07:30 AM   #1
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Rear axels rebuild. O1 S

Since all the axel boots in my car was torn up and I’m at 76k, I decided to perform a full rebuild including new CV joins and all 4 axel boots. At the same chance, I removed the secondary cats and planning on installing the bypass pipes. So if the cats are out, I thought it would be a good idea to remove the whole axel assembly from the car and work it on the bench.
Everything worked out smooth until I got to remove the axel from the wheel hub.
Man… this thing is stuck. After some lubrication and heavy persuasions from my hummer, the RH side came off. The LH side is still stuck and won’t budge. I hit it as hard as I can and it won’t even move a bit.
So, question # 1: can anyone give me a useful tip before I go and purchase a 10lb sledge hammer?
Question # 2: once I get it out, what can I put on it before I get it back on, to help me remove it in the future?
Last question:
On the axel I managed to remove from the car, I noticed that the outer CV joint (the non replaceable one) sounds like it’s got sand in the grease, when I move it around.
Any ideas of how to wash away all the old grease before applying the new one?
Thank you all in advance.

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Old 02-13-2012, 08:30 AM   #2
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1) buy a brass plumbing fitting and use it as a buffer between your sledge and the axle; this way the brass will deform instead of your axle.

2) you can soak the cv in solvent to clean it, but inspect for damage caused by the grit. if you have to replace i recommend buying used as opposed to new oem (too expensive) or jobber (poor quality).
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:05 AM   #3
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thanks TRK

1. Well, I used the old nut before pounding the axel. (It looks like a pancake now) but using a brass cup is not a bad idea, the original nut has grooves on it so the edges tend to claps. I hope with the brass cup I will have more surfaces to work with.
2. What kind of solvent should I use?

Thanks again

Last edited by Meir; 02-13-2012 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 02-13-2012, 05:28 PM   #4
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Got it!

I guess half a can of PB blaster over night did the job.
Still needed to hammer it pretty hard.
Now i need to figure out how to clean all the old grease.
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Old 02-16-2012, 10:04 AM   #5
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update

manage to get 99% precent of the grease out of the joint.
usually i don't do commercials for free .... but this stuff is amazing.

let it set for 10 minutes and you get a high quality of CV joint milkshake.
left the joint very clean but a little bit oily.
didn't want to use water as instructed, so i washed it couple of times with carb cleaner.
let it dry over night, and today i'm going to assemble it.
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Old 02-18-2012, 07:54 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meir View Post
I guess half a can of PB blaster over night did the job.
Still needed to hammer it pretty hard.
Now i need to figure out how to clean all the old grease.
I like to soak dirty greasy parts on diesel fuel inside a pan for a little while and everything cleans out pretty easy with a wire brush..

.

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