Advice for my winter project

[feelyx]

Whip,
If yours is a double row bearing, will you send me the old one if I pay for shipping?
Also here is a suggestion on the RMS, if you roll the spring out of the seal carefully, unscrew the spring, cut 2mm off the big side of the spring, screw it back together, and carefully roll it back into place it will make for a tighter seal around the crankshaft.
Happy holidays

[WhipE350]

Originally Posted by feelyx

Whip,
....
Also here is a suggestion on the RMS, if you roll the spring out of the seal carefully, unscrew the spring, cut 2mm off the big side of the spring, screw it back together, and carefully roll it back into place it will make for a tighter seal around the crankshaft.
Happy holidays

Guess I need to see what you are talking about, not familiar with this at all!

[clickman]

Thanks for taking the time to post all your experiences here. I'm thinking of doing this job myself, but not sure how much I want to invest in special tools.

[WhipE350]

Originally Posted by clickman

Thanks for taking the time to post all your experiences here. I'm thinking of doing this job myself, but not sure how much I want to invest in special tools.

Hey no problem...some of the special tools I've made myself. I'll keep you posted...going to go play 9 holes then replace the oil fill tube and the RMS. Might also get the cover off the IMS and see what shape it's in.

[WhipE350]

Only got the RMS done tonight. Interesting project. I measured the existing one while in and it was between 10 and 12mm from the crank, it wasn't consistent. Made a little tool that would measure about 13mm. Bentley says to insert a little more then 11m so it hits a fresh surface on the crank. From the pictures below it can be seen that there is some surface to work with both on the crank and the block.

Some more thoughts and observations for those learning along with me and for those with more knowledge to comment on:

- The new seal has extra ridges on the outside, the inside (crank side) seems to have some extra ridges also and is just slightly different in design (see 3rd pic). If you are all familiar with the ridged seals that go under external doors in your house it kind of reminds me of that.
- While putting the new one on, make sure it goes on the crank side properly, it is easy to flop it over and do it wrong. I was reading elsewhere today where someone had that problem, I immediately saw what they were talking about....however once on it will be OK, Turn it back and forth a little and you'll see.
- I see why the shops have a special tool, these seals are squirmy little buggers, while gently tapping in they like to seat quickly on one outside edge and not the other. Before you go too far start over. Get it started on the outside edge completely before starting to tap it in past the point of no return. This happens because they are ridged and the fit is tight...well at least it seems that way to me.
- I used a little soft piece of wood to tap around and around to get it most of the way, then I used a perfect fitting piece of PVC to get it to the right depth. Since they do like to go in easier on one side then the other I generally used the PVC to just work the section that was not being so nice. In the end it was a perfect 13mm from crank side in. I will say that extra 2mm is very noticeable on the outside edge.
- Take your time, I can see it would be easy to seat it in too far.
- As a beginner on this it is amazes me that crank can spin on this for so long and not leak more. Also I'm not surprised that they ooze a little. I also can see how leaks could form.

Think I'll do the nasty messy oil fill tube next. My parts guy had that part handy, said they have to replace them all the time. Not a lot of room to get at it, but I"ll ******************** and gripe a bunch and get it done. Then do my best to clean up what only a few hundred drops can do over 57k miles...dirt magnets.

[feelyx]

Originally Posted by WhipE350

Guess I need to see what you are talking about, not familiar with this at all!

I will try and get you some pics of this today.

[WhipE350]

Originally Posted by feelyx

I will try and get you some pics of this today.

I was looking at the old seal and there is was the spring you are talking about. I didn't happen to look on the new seal before I put it in so I'm not sure how it can be made smaller (other then what you explain)...pretty cool idea though.

[WhipE350]

So last night and this afternoon were an adventure!

- Last night I managed to get the AOS out, I figured I would stimulate the economy and put a new one in while everything was out of car. Not sure if others found this job easy but I didn't and I had total access. The easy off hoses didn't behave, I've found with them you have to catch them just right and they do come off easy...I guess practice helps. I have to hand it to anyone that did this from the top of the car and reaching up from the bottom.
I wonder what happens to these when they fail...anyone know what actually goes wrong. So anyway if anyone needs an AOS with 57k miles on it I'll sell it cheap...for all I know it could have plenty of miles left on it.

- Also last night I finally removed my leaky oil fill tube...this is the worst job I have ever done. I assume there is a tool that releases the hose clamps that makes it much easier. Now that I have done one though I'm sure it would not be very bad next time. This tube has been the source of the minor oil drip.

- Now for the interesting part, this after noon I got my LN Engineering bearing and pulling kit. I went slow making sure everything was done correctly and I still think I messed up. I had to rotate the crank 360 degrees again to get the exhaust cam rotated 180 degrees so the tool to hold it in place would seat properly. No big deal there. Got the cover off the IMS and started the removal process. So I'm pulling out my double row and having to torque so much it just didn't feel right...then pop! Not the good pop, the center bolt in the bearing at it's weak point had snapped off! At this point fear and concern set in. Took a break made some calls, did some reading and went back to see what can be done. The LN kit also contains an "Easy Out" nut that takes a little work to get setup but it is very clever. The quality of the LN kit is really good, I'm glad I got it. I started over and crossed my fingers, my pride was on the line this time. So I torque it up good and was taking a 30 second mental break when I heard a little 'click' sound. I think the wire-loc had given out at this point because things started moving! So long story long...the bearing is out and it is time for a drink! I talked to a guy at LN and he said he had never heard of the center bolt breaking like that.
I think what happen is the center bolt fell inside the shaft before i started and probably never seated back correctly I was probably pulling on it at an angle...live and learn.

Here is a pic of the bearing, the center bolt, and Easy Out. It amazes me these double rows ever fail, they seem really well made.

One other thing, there was over a pint of old crappy nasty smelly oil in the ims tube. I assume it comes in from the other end.

Cheers.