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Old 12-10-2010, 04:48 PM   #1
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new coil packs, running rough?!?!

hmmm, just fitted new coil packs but the car now runs rough on tick over?!?! it ran fine before but swapped out the old packs for new and it runs like a bag of ****************? it's fine with revs and there is no cel light on so "waz up" as one lizard said to the other! any ideas? packs are bosch not beru.

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Old 12-10-2010, 09:24 PM   #2
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This is just a guess, but if they're all installed correctly (fully seated and plugged in), it may take some driving for the DME to readjust.
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Old 12-11-2010, 04:08 AM   #3
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Thumbs up

Thanx Randall, I did everything by the book so I'll drive it around for the rest of the weekend.
By the way Randall, how many miles has yours done now? is it still on 109K? I know you've had yours longer than I've had mine, any major trouble yet?

Last edited by jonnycool; 12-11-2010 at 04:11 AM.
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Old 12-11-2010, 01:05 PM   #4
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Just clicked over the 109k mark at the track this last weekend. Visit www.iwantaporsche.net to read about all my repairs, of which there have been many
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Old 12-11-2010, 01:25 PM   #5
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its not a good idea to drive it if it is missing. cat. damage is possible
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Old 12-12-2010, 06:00 AM   #6
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I started it from cold yesterday and left it to tick over for about 15 mins while I put my old wheels for the winter, it ran really smooth all day, I started it today and did'nt let it warm up and it started missing again and threw the cel so I'll wait till it's stone cold again and see what happens (could be a trip to the garage)
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Old 12-12-2010, 06:07 AM   #7
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what code?
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Old 12-12-2010, 07:02 AM   #8
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i dont know the code, last time it came up right bank misfire, i just fired it up again and it ran fine until i touched the throttle and the revs die from say 900/1000 to 600 then the misfire happens. I'll double check every connection tomorrow before I book it in.
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Old 12-14-2010, 02:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnycool
hmmm, just fitted new coil packs but the car now runs rough on tick over?!?! it ran fine before but swapped out the old packs for new and it runs like a bag of ****************? it's fine with revs and there is no cel light on so "waz up" as one lizard said to the other! any ideas? packs are bosch not beru.
If the car was running fine before you worked on it, then it stand to reason that the work you did was faulty.

If it were my car, the very first thing I would have done would have been to pull out each coil pack, and then reinstall them, making sure I head and felt all the clicks as they snap into place.

BC.
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Old 12-15-2010, 08:50 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bladecutter
If the car was running fine before you worked on it, then it stand to reason that the work you did was faulty.

If it were my car, the very first thing I would have done would have been to pull out each coil pack, and then reinstall them, making sure I head and felt all the clicks as they snap into place.

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so how come it's running fine now??? I hav'nt touched a thing after installing the packs, all I have done is took Randalls advice and let the DME do all the work. it's pretty hard to hear a faint click down an air tight tube and unless you push them in at an odd angle then they usually hit home first time. THE problem arose when depressing the THROTTLE!

Now running the car from cold on tick over until warm before driving here's what my finding are

first day,(after initial ups and downs) hesitant, flat spots all over, smelt rich.
second day, not too bad, flat spot 3500rpm. holding back above 3500rpm.
third day, very smooth idle, pulls passed the 3500 very strongly

now all I have to find out is what it drives like from cold, but I may stick to the warm up first tactics for a while.

Last edited by jonnycool; 12-15-2010 at 08:55 AM.
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:29 AM   #11
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day 4. warmed the car up to take it to the garage to have the check light turned off only to find that the car had turned it's own check light off!! It has turned itself off before but i thought it was a one off, infact in the time i've had the car it's turned 2 flashing and 1 previous check light off. I only had to have it turned off by the garage once.
The check lights were all coil pack related, has anybody else experienced the car turning it's own check light off?
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:57 AM   #12
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if the car is still running rough/missing bladecutters advise still is the best. a history code might help,i dont think the car is going to fix itself
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:29 AM   #13
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please read before posting, The car runs GREAT!!!! have you read any of this post? is my english that bad? pity as I don't know any other language!
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Old 12-17-2010, 08:47 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by extanker
if the car is still running rough/missing bladecutters advise still is the best. a history code might help,i dont think the car is going to fix itself
This is the whole point of posting my findings, THE CAR HAS FIXED ITSELF!

Over a period of days the car has rectified itself!!! even to the point that it has turned it's OWN check light off.

I'm just wondering if it's because the car is a first year of production car that it does this? did porsche change the newer one's to cash in on turning the light off for you even for minor problems?
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Old 12-19-2010, 06:25 PM   #15
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Interesting situation. I just changed my plugs and had a similar scenario. it ran like ******************** for a day or two, especially when it was cold. i got flashing CEL. then i noticed when it hit about 190 degrees it ran great. the more i drove it, the better it got. I'm wondering if the DME really does figure it all out over time. right now it runs poorly cold, but great hot. did yours reach a point where it started running good both hot and cold?
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Old 12-20-2010, 12:44 PM   #16
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To be honest i'm a little reluctant to try it from cold. I think it has lost some initial start up information somewhere.
An idea I had was to disconnect the battery in the summer and let the DME do it's magic in normal conditions then when winter comes it may adjust itself to the colder weather? i,e give the car more fuel and tickover when driven cold?? It just seems to not give enough fuel and tickover as soon as you touch the throttle when it's cold! if you dont touch the throttle it run great ...weird huh!
I'm, going to ask my friend who owns a snap on modis to see if he can raise the cold idle a little to see what happens.
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Old 12-21-2010, 06:06 PM   #17
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yeah, i still can't get it to run good cold. frustrating. before i changed plugs the engine temp was much less of a factor. not sure what changed. i'm hoping over the next week the car adjusts to the changes.
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Old 12-22-2010, 07:41 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macyfilms
yeah, i still can't get it to run good cold. frustrating. before i changed plugs the engine temp was much less of a factor. not sure what changed. i'm hoping over the next week the car adjusts to the changes.
If your car ran good before the change, I still stand by the fact that you should double check your work.

When you change a part, like spark plugs, the car should run the same, if not better, than before the change. If the car was misfiring because of a bad plug, then it should run a heck of a lot better.

If the car was running bad before the change, and the part you changed wasn't the cause, then it should keep running the same, not worse. If you change the spark plugs, but the misfire is caused by a clogged fuel injector, there shouldn't be any change whatsoever.

Of course, if the clogged injector is cylinder 5, but you don't snap the connector back together on coil pack 2, then the car would run even worse than before.

If you are having driveability issues in cold weather, you should double check your work. I changed my spark plugs months ago, and it ran perfect from the first time I turned the key. If it didn't, I would have looked into it immediately, not hoped that the car's computer masked over the problem.

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Old 12-26-2010, 05:33 AM   #19
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ok i finally tried a cold start, car has been stood for a week covered in snow, the roads around here are still pretty bad so she ain't going nowhere!!
She started straight up as usual, left it for approx 1-2 mins then blipped the throttle. The tickover was perfect, no missing or spluttering just silky smooth tickover

I could see where you were coming from bladecutter but i knew everything was in place correctly (i'm a farmer plus we own a haulage firm) so i'm not a total noob round vehicles.

My friend said on some vehicles it takes quite a few miles/running time to sort themselves out, on this occasion it proved correct often though it's not always the case.

Well roll on the good weather I say, and a merry christmas to all

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