DIY: Setting Cam Timing on M96

[NewArt]

Yes, you have timed b1 and tightened the bolts so it is locked.

[Redboxsta]

Thank you Jesse

[Gelbster]

Check your work
When you think you have the settings perfect:
turn the engine over many times by hand- Jake suggested 20 times !
And then re-check the timing.
You may be surprised to observe that the timing marks have now moved slightly out of perfection.
If you think this is excessive worrying, just think about re-timing after it is all back in the car because you got a timing error code ! And that assumes your laziness caused no damage to the valves.
To stop the engine bouncing on the engine stand while I was cranking, I used a simple mechanical floor trans jack+big block of scrap redwood under the sump plate.It would have been smoother before I had put the spark plugs in ! Noob error.

The Inlet Camshaft Notch Angle controversy - The notch is just a rough indication you have the correct TDC position (pin it) when combined with inserting Porsche tool 9624 in the exhaust Cam half(actually 3/8 & 5/8) moon slots.
It is very difficult to eye-ball the exact angle of the Inlet Cam Notch with the engine in the car. Worse the Cam angle is 1/2 the crank angle. So fretting about 3 o'clock or 2.45 (90 degrees +/-) is not very useful
Better to use Durametric to give you an Actual Value. The Durametric value is in Crankshaft degrees. But it 'reads' the reluctor ring at the sprocket end of the cam not the actual Camshaft lobes position. So it is an indirect reading. Very unlikely the relutor ring is damaged/moved.Easy to visually verify with the Cam Cover off.
If you must eyeball the Notch to judge if there is a timing issue, remove 9624. Rotate the crankshaft to the position where the Notch is perfectly 90 degrees.The Exh Cam 1/2 moon will be slightly off perfect. Then measure at the crankshaft pulley how far BTDC the TDC mark is. The only relible "Go/no-Go gauge" is the 9612 tool. If the engine is in the car you'll have to remove the black 'puck' to use it to verify - because there is no direct line of sight for the EX Cam notches. See here for more:https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/51555-cranks-but-no-start-misfire/
The Porsche FSM diagram of the position & orientation of the Inlet Cam Notch is at page 15-23 & 15-69 for Bank 2, 4-6(faces inward). For 1-3 it is 15-23 & 15-51(faces outward). They all show the Notch slightly off 90 degrees.
If you have perfect Exhaust Cam timing(9612 tool fits) at the correct TDC position but the Inlet Notch is very different from the FSM - you have a problem !
The relationship between the Exh cam and Inlet cam is controlled by the short chain linking the Exh+Inlet sprockets There is NO adjustment.The only adjustment(4 bolts) is on the Exh cam sprocket, none on the Inlet Sprocket..It varies only with the action of the Variocam Actuator+Solenoid aka Tensioning Element. At idle the advance is not active.Above around 2k rpm it starts kicking in .Durametric should show you this on a graph.
What goes wrong?
The Solenoid fails or wiring/DME for it
The Actuator leaks/worn/dirt plug/sticks midway or does not move
The dreaded Deviation greater than +/- 6 degrees
The 4 Exh Camshaft Sprocket bolts became loose and timing slips.
Camshaft Position Sensor fails
You get the Bank 1 and Bank 2 Instructions(notch + half moon - muddled) !
That diagnosis is a separate Thread.
Here are some great photos from Nutrod to replace those lost from Insite/Image Host:
http://www.nutrod.com/Nutrod/Pics/Pages/Install_Head_4-6.html
This may also help"
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-forum/594122-how-to-set-cam-timing-on-996-a-2.html
If you get confused ,use a simple drawing like the one in this link to clarify your question:
https://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/51555-cranks-but-no-start-misfire/

[Blownvette]

I have a 2003 Porsche Boxster with a 2.7 l a 3 chain setup how do you line up the timing marks and where are they

[Newsguy]

I realize this is an old thread, but want to ask: has anyone done this successfully with the engine IN the car?
I've replaced the engine twice already (first replacement had intermix) and dread another round. I'd also like to drive the darn thing this summer!

[JFP in PA]

Originally Posted by Newsguy

I realize this is an old thread, but want to ask: has anyone done this successfully with the engine IN the car?
I've replaced the engine twice already (first replacement had intermix) and dread another round. I'd also like to drive the darn thing this summer!

It can be done, but it is the worst "ship in a bottle" project you have ever seen. Quicker and more accurate if you drop the engine.

[Newsguy]

Suspected as much, looking at the Bank 1 oil pump.
Thank you.

[Gelbster]

If it is difficult for JFP, for an amateur it is ......
If you read between the (many) lines in post 18 above you'll visualize a few of the problems.
In anticipation of the next (inevitable) time I must do such a job I used my 'ship-in-bottle' experience to justify the purchase of all the extra tools and equipment necessary to make engine/gearbox removal as fast,safe and easy as possible.
A hydraulic cart is an example of the equipment I indulged in.

[Newsguy]

I have a cart, and a lift. It gets tiring after the third engine remove and replace.

[evtechnician]

Hello,
The write up for timing the Camshafts does not seem to match my cars new engine. I have 2.5L VIN A 5th Digit Fits 97-99 PORSCHE BOXSTER 16915409. The engine is on the engine stand.
When I set up TDC cyl 1 ( the closest cylinder to the passenger seat) On the compression stroke I used a compression gauge and watch as the needle moves up and I lock the crank with the 8MM pin at TDC. The notches on the intake cams are pointed "in "not out as the write up suggests. At this point if I look at the Bank 1 exhaust notches they are parallel with the case . The intake notch is almost 90 deg but its pointed in. If I rotate the crank 1 turn the intake cam notch is pointed out at almost 90 deg and the exhaust notches are still parallel. This repeats if I go to bank 2 . Is the write up actually using the exhaust stroke ? Does anyone have the manual from Porsche ? to confirm this , does it matter . The engine was out of a running car. And i was just trying to confirm nothing moved when changed the IMS . I locked the gear behind the IMS flange with treaded screws and everything went smoothly . I just like to verify these things . Being a Porches newbie.

[elgyqc]

I used this procedure to retime my 2000 2.7 engine after changing the chain tenser pads. When I reinstalled the cams I eye-balled the timing thinking that it was close enough. When the assembling was finished I found that the sprocket was not properly placed and I couldn't turn it enough. I found that it is possible to reposition the sprocket in the chain without taking it all apart again. Before starting I put a mark the sprocket and a mark on the chain that I wanted the sprocket to be aligned to. Make sure you are going to adjust it in the right direction!
1) Remove the chain adjuster (that's the name in the PET, it is often called the tensioner)
2) Remove the 4 bolts, pull the sprocket off the end of the cam and drop it towards the crankshaft to get enough slack on the chain
3) turn the sprocket to align your marks before replacing it in the chain and reinstalling it on the camshaft.
4) reinstall the 4 bolts and the chain adjuster

Here it is after the adjustment. I think my original problem was that the chain aduster was not installed when I eye-balled it during the assembly and installing the adjuster moveed the cams.

[theiceman]

great thread and very informative.. but green loctite ?? that stuff is usually used as bearing retainer on stuff that is designed never to be removed.

are we sure about this ,? green is even stronger than red which requires heat to take out does it not ?

[Gelbster]

Incorrect.
Green Loctite 290 is a 'wicking" grade of medium strength thread locker.
https://next.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/products/industrial-adhesives/central-pdp.html/loctite-290/BP000000153486.html

[theiceman]

Originally Posted by Gelbster

Incorrect.
Green Loctite 290 is a 'wicking" grade of medium strength thread locker.
https://next.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/products/industrial-adhesives/central-pdp.html/loctite-290/BP000000153486.html

That is great additional info thank you.. (technically i was NOT incorrect but thank you for that curt response. i was confusing it with green loctite 638) I will proceed with my blue as it is all I have and in sure it will work fine as it is medium strength

The original article did NOT indicate which version of green loctite .

For those in the future please be aware ..

There is a green loctite 290 as posted below
There is also a green loctite 638 which is NOT to be used as this is bearing retainer and very very strong.

cheers all .

[theiceman]

Continue to use this excellent thread as a resource and have completed the task .. however .. have any of you noticed anything like this before ? .. as you can see , this will be somewhat difficult to set up lol..



fortunately i was able to get the alignment tool in on this side of the engine and it popped in fine.. but is a little unnerving .

Think hans had to many pints at lunch when machining some bits.