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Old 06-04-2010, 06:42 PM   #1
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Originally Posted by crios
No, never done a clutch, but I changed out my suspension...with patience, a Bentley manual, this website, it’s probably possible to do. I have to think about it. I'd guess I'd be looking at about 8hrs worth of work with the proper tools...for my skill level.
Crios; someone posted here a complete tranny (and engine removal) with pics and detailed information, if I can find it I'll post it here. Looks like a fun project (seriously) and you will save at least $800 - $1,000 IMHO
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Old 06-04-2010, 07:42 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilles
Crios; someone posted here a complete tranny (and engine removal) with pics and detailed information, if I can find it I'll post it here. Looks like a fun project (seriously) and you will save at least $800 - $1,000 IMHO
Crios;

Here is the link for the engine/transmission removal:

http://www.nutrod.com/Nutrod/Home.html

This guy took the time to documents every step for engine removal (and partial disassembling) with great detail however, you won't be going that far...

With the money you'll save, perhaps you may want to consider a new clutch..?
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Old 06-04-2010, 08:16 PM   #3
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I went through what you are describing earlier this year. I also did the IMS retrofit while in there along with replacing the clutch and RMS. If you take your time and follow the Bentley Manual it is not too tough of a job. Rebuild through Gbox will run $2400 to $3400 depending on what needs done (for an "S" 6 speed, yours may be less) plus shipping.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/32315-ims-rms-tranny-r-r-tips/?
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Old 06-05-2010, 09:40 AM   #4
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Thanks guys for all the help!!! I'm 99% sure I'll be doing it myself so this info is great!
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Old 06-05-2010, 10:23 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by crios
Thanks guys for all the help!!! I'm 99% sure I'll be doing it myself so this info is great!
Cesar, if you were in OC I would offer my help, sounds like a fun project.
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Old 06-05-2010, 02:32 PM   #6
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Due to the notion "you never know what you're going to get," I would strongly consider rebuilding your gearbox than just buying a used one. Not only will you know exactly what you're going to get back, it will likely work better than new. This is also a great time to consider swapping out the factory open diff for some form of limited slip.

As to the difficulty of the swap, it's not too bad. Rear bumper removed, exhaust removed, then pull the gearbox. I'd swap the clutch, replace the RMS seal, and do an IMS upgrade while you're in there, have a good look at your CV joints, then put it all back together and enjoy life for a while
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Old 06-06-2010, 11:42 PM   #7
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I plan on getting it rebuilt. I want to keep my car forever

Spent a couple hours working on it tonight. Jacked it up 2 feet off the ground (all fours), took the rear tires off, braces off, sway bar, and partial exhaust.

Tomorrow, buy some more tools, 10MM Triple square and Transmission Jack adapter, then at night (kids asleep, wife out of town) take off the total exhaust and some more support bars as well as CV Joints.

Tuesday, tranny comes out!

Wed, wife comes home, yikes
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Light Weight Flywheel | Tinted Windows and Windscreen
Painted Bumperettes | 550 Spyder Grille Kit


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Last edited by crios; 06-06-2010 at 11:45 PM.
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Old 04-01-2011, 09:06 AM   #8
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anyone know how high the car has to be for the transmission to clear?

My jack stands can reach around 17 inches. is that high enough or do I need new jack stands?
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Old 03-24-2014, 02:40 PM   #9
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I'm looking at doing a tranny and/or gear box rebuild, and would happily offer free assistance to one of you guys in So Cal who may be thinking along the same lines.
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Old 01-24-2015, 06:56 AM   #10
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Team,

I have a 2004 Boxster and am in process of removing the 5spd TX. Have removed everything as per the articles and am using the compressor (120 psi) and airtool but none of the bolts are budging. Is it normal, are they supposed to be that tight? Have applied PB Blaster over the late few days but to no avail. If I can't have B budging, I am wondering how I am going to remove D with the added loss of the socket extension?

Is it always that one has to use a long length ratchet or something and undo the bolts? The torque spec is not that high.

Any suggestion, comments will be helpful and appreciated.
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Old 01-24-2015, 07:21 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by PorscheFan5 View Post
Team,

I have a 2004 Boxster and am in process of removing the 5spd TX. Have removed everything as per the articles and am using the compressor (120 psi) and airtool but none of the bolts are budging. Is it normal, are they supposed to be that tight? Have applied PB Blaster over the late few days but to no avail. If I can't have B budging, I am wondering how I am going to remove D with the added loss of the socket extension?

Is it always that one has to use a long length ratchet or something and undo the bolts? The torque spec is not that high.

Any suggestion, comments will be helpful and appreciated.
I just swapped out my transmission over the holidays and found that the trans bolts were pretty tight. I used a 1/2" socket set and an 18" breaker bar to get them loose. Of course, its hard to say how tight is "tight" and how hard to push is "too hard".

To get to the upper bolts, I used every possible combination of u-joint + short or long socket + extension(s) to find the right setup that made getting each bolt out easier. You'll find that there is room to get to each bolt, you just have to find that good location and then match up the right combination of tools to reach.
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Last edited by thstone; 01-24-2015 at 07:28 AM.
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Old 01-24-2015, 07:50 AM   #12
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My experience is about the same as "Thstone" My advice is use as few linked socket extensions as possible. Each joint reduces the impact and torque by 10-15%. Use the socket and one extension were possible with your impact tool. Best advice is purchase a IMPACT extension set with at least 4 sizes to fit your most common applications (Money well spent). The shanks are stiffer and flex less and the squares are less likely to deform. Common chrome extensions that come with your standard sockets flex too much for a 1/2" high torque impact.
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