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Old 05-05-2010, 10:14 AM   #1
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changing the steering wheel

I have a three spoke steering wheel on its way to me to replace my original four spoke. From what I have read so far it looks like a fairly straightforward job to do the swap. Are there any tips or tricks I should know before I start? Will it really just wiggle off the column or will I need a puller? Thanks!

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Old 05-05-2010, 10:43 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_T
I have a three spoke steering wheel on its way to me to replace my original four spoke. From what I have read so far it looks like a fairly straightforward job to do the swap. Are there any tips or tricks I should know before I start? Will it really just wiggle off the column or will I need a puller? Thanks!

Mark
Make sure you mark the top of the steering wheel on the shaft before you pull it off. Otherwise, you could end up with the wheel being turned a little while the car is pointed straight.

It should wiggle off with some tugging. If you keep the nut at the end of the shaft while you're pulling, you won't hit yourself with the steering wheel when it lets go. There are a couple of delicate "fingers" that protrude from the wheel angle sensor behind the wheel. Make sure they're lined up when you put the new wheel on so you don't break them. It's part of my documentation here:

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/24367-diy-dashboard-assembly/page__p__127612__hl__dash__fromsearch__1&#entry127612

It's the black ring in most of the pictures of the steering column.
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Old 05-05-2010, 11:39 AM   #3
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You'll need to disconnect the battery for several (read 10) minutes before proceeding to be certain the airbag is deactivated - be sure to have your radio code in-hand. The airbag stays active for some time once the car is switched off to protect the passengers until they exit the vehicle. Also, you'll need a long T-30 torx bit.

The rest is straightforward, but be mindful of the airbag clockspring and don't disturb it's orientation.

Do not reconnect the battery until you are done.

Good Luck!

Cheers!
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Old 05-05-2010, 01:21 PM   #4
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-The airbag stays active for some time once the car is switched off

-If you keep the nut at the end of the shaft while you're pulling, you won't hit yourself with the steering wheel when it lets go.
(brings tears to my eyes just thinking about it)

LOL - good tips, not ones you want to learn the hard way!

Information like that is priceless. Got the code and I'll watch the spring. Thanks!
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Old 05-05-2010, 06:29 PM   #5
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Borrow a really big monkey wrench or the 24mm socket to replace that ginormous nut that holds the wheel onto the shaft... you'll never use the tool again so there's no need to own it!
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Old 05-05-2010, 07:26 PM   #6
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24 mm, eh? I know where I can borrow one of those. I see you have the same steering wheel on your car that I'm putting on. I've also got a set of sport seats coming with the wheel so the car should be a lot nicer to sit in very soon.

I'd like to give it the same brake/wheel treatment that you gave yours, but that will have to wait until next year at the earliest. The only other thing on the agenda for this year is a wind deflector if I can find one at a decent price.

Mark
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Old 05-05-2010, 08:02 PM   #7
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Jay Senoff's is quite effective from what I read on this forum... kinda shiny at an angle, but it does block wind well and may be cheaper than buying the cheesy center one from Porsche. My factory one rattles like crazy!
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Old 05-05-2010, 09:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RandallNeighbour
Jay Senoff's is quite effective from what I read on this forum... kinda shiny at an angle, but it does block wind well and may be cheaper than buying the cheesy center one from Porsche. My factory one rattles like crazy!
I cured the rattle/vibration issue by cutting 2 one inch strips of double sided foam tape and putting one on the lower edge of each side of the windscreen between the screen and the top of the rollbar.

You need to compress the foam to get the latches to engage, but it is this tension and the vibration absorbing properties of the foam which is invisible, but eliminated any rattle or vibration. Try it!

Cheers!
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Old 05-06-2010, 03:02 PM   #9
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Thinking about what you said, it occurs to me that I should go and get a sheet of lucite, cut it to shape (got a bandsaw) and wire-tie it to the roll bar so I can see if it is even worth the expense of buying the real one. I hear mixed reviews on the wind deflector - some say it's great, some say it hardly helps at all.
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Old 05-08-2010, 05:22 AM   #10
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Never drive without mine and the tip about the double sided foam tape is correct...I placed some years back; you don't see it and it eliminates all rattling.
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Old 05-08-2010, 05:46 AM   #11
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I bought an adhesive-backed sheet of black felt from Hobby Lobby for about a dollar and have been using pieces in all kinds of places to eliminate plastic squeaking. It works in the wind blocker, the roll bar hoop blockers, the dashboard pieces. My mirrors used to squeak where they contacted the windshield frame. The car has cables routed through plastic "fingers" in various internal trim panels that will sometimes rub against each-other, making noise. Sometimes the climate control and DSP panels in the dashboard would make noise too. I also used some of it to stop a popping behind the dashboard caused by the dash steel and the aluminum support bar rubbing when the chassis was twisted (one wheel up the driveway). The car is a lot more quiet thanks to that felt sheet.
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Old 05-08-2010, 09:52 AM   #12
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No, no - buy a 24MM socket! That way you'll already have it on the workbench when the time comes to install an underdrive pulley

Quote:
Originally Posted by RandallNeighbour
Borrow a really big monkey wrench or the 24mm socket to replace that ginormous nut that holds the wheel onto the shaft... you'll never use the tool again so there's no need to own it!
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Old 05-08-2010, 01:46 PM   #13
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Pelicanparts has a really good article from Wayne who shows you how to do it with one of those anti-theft steering wheel locks. I'd go there and read the article too.

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Old 05-08-2010, 03:45 PM   #14
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Thanks - that's an excellent guide, and the Club idea is a good tip. I'll use that.
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Old 05-12-2010, 03:42 PM   #15
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Got 'er done. No warning lights or airbags going off in my face, and it looks so much better than the old one. Thanks again for the help everyone.

Mark
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Old 05-18-2010, 08:37 PM   #16
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Wheel Not pointing straight

I also followed all these tips ensuring clock spring was not interupted and my new 3 spoke doesnt point straight when driving. Dealer says it has "nothing to due w/clockspring". Kinda makes sense since the shaft should align with wheel (STRAIGHT) before it comes in contact w/clock spring.

with that said, how can i fix this?

Thanks!
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Old 05-19-2010, 02:52 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jrdiesel01
I also followed all these tips ensuring clock spring was not interupted and my new 3 spoke doesnt point straight when driving. Dealer says it has "nothing to due w/clockspring". Kinda makes sense since the shaft should align with wheel (STRAIGHT) before it comes in contact w/clock spring.

with that said, how can i fix this?

Thanks!
Use these instructions and where it tells you to mark the location, mark it and then when you bolt the wheel back on, just bolt the wheel slightly to the left or right depending on how far your steering wheel is off center left or right.

http://www.whiteson.org/boxster/mods/obc/obc.stalk.pdf
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Old 05-19-2010, 07:33 AM   #18
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It's not always possible to get it dead-on-balls centered because of differences in the location of the slines from the various different wheels. It's possible that dead center doesn't line up with a spline.

In this case, go to an alignment shop or if you have the skill, adjust the tie rod ends on the front suspension to overcome the difference.

Cheers!
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