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Old 08-06-2009, 07:31 PM   #1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funkdefino
What test can be done or what do I tell my mechanic to find out if I have bad lifters?
Your mechanic should have a trained ear to recognize the tappet noises... A dyno run will show if the engine is low power, but you'll need other graphs from similar cars to know what is actually low power..

The only way to know is to pull the lifters and inspect them...

I know the main contributor to this issue, but will not post it, because it would start WWIII...
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Old 08-06-2009, 07:52 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake Raby

I know the main contributor to this issue, but will not post it, because it would start WWIII...

LOL ....NOT ANOTHER teaser from you - i smelled that coming......
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Old 08-06-2009, 07:55 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by spine911
LOL ....NOT ANOTHER teaser from you - i smelled that coming......
See, I get in trouble even if I keep my mouth shut..
Open the rear trunk of your Boxster and the issue is staring you right in the face.
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:00 PM   #4
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"m.... . "?
.
.
.
.
.
Sorry couldn't resist guessing!!
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:11 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake Raby
See, I get in trouble even if I keep my mouth shut..
Open the rear trunk of your Boxster and the issue is staring you right in the face.

It is Reverse Psychology - i bluffed ,and it "forced" you to give in a little of your tease....I just LOVE it when you start teasing us

(mptoledo), can i buy a numerical character to add to your guess??
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:19 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by spine911
It is Reverse Psychology - i bluffed ,and it "forced" you to give in a little of your tease....I just LOVE it when you start teasing us

(mptoledo), can i buy a numerical character to add to your guess??

We could play hangman!!



Dead body? close, maybe dead dinosaurs(sort of).
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:22 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by mptoledo
We could play hangman!!



Dead body? close, maybe dead dinosaurs(sort of).


Sounds Fun!

Dead body?......Dead dinosaurs?..... or, Fossilized "dead dinosaur" bones for Oil????
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:27 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by spine911
Sounds Fun!

Dead body?......Dead dinosaurs?..... or, Fossilized "dead dinosaur" bones for Oil????
Actually I think its krill, plankton and algae, if I remember my biology correctly.
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:12 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake Raby
Open the rear trunk of your Boxster and the issue is staring you right in the face.
A dead body?
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Old 08-07-2009, 07:26 AM   #10
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Jake,

You may have covered this but, why do you supposed the lifters are sticking? Is this a design issue with the engine. Can lubrication in any way deal with this?

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Old 08-06-2009, 08:29 PM   #11
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The basic reasons lifters stick, or their valves do, is that either 'gunk' clogs the valves or varnish accumulates on the lifter body, oil feed, or valve.

There are a few tried and true methods of cleaning/correcting these conditions, and I want to convey these, but in our litigation-happy culture, I simply cannot tell you what they are...

OK.. I will :

You can use a qt. of kerosene in your oil, or any of a number of additives such as SeaFoam, Lucas or Marvel Mystery Oil or you can substitute a qt. of ATF for a qt. of oil.

I do not recommend the first because of kerosene's effect of stripping the oil coating from the internals, creating additional wear while it aids the lifters.

Oil additives have varying formulas and achieve varying results, but no big downside to their use.

ATF has the benefit of first being a lubricant, but unlike motor oil, has a disproportionate amount of detergents in it's formulation, specifically to keep the valves of an auto trans clean, and last a long time in what is essentially a 'closed system'.

This is not a snake oil treatment, it is a tried and true method used by many enthusiasts and mechanics since hydraulic lifters were first introduced by Pierce-Arrow in the 1930's, just search the web and see how many times this is recommended as a cure, albeit not a cure-all.

Any of the additives mentioned above will dissolve varnishes and open restricted valves and oil galleries.

There are a couple of caveats though. It is best to add them to fresh oil and operate the engine for no more than 30 min. (after fully warmed) and not place the engine under extreme loading, though you don't want 30 min. idle time either.

Secondly, immediately change the oil and filter afterward, draining it while still very warm (not HOT) before the gunk can fall out of suspension and varnishes redeposit on the internals.

Then, it would be prudent to do a short service interval of the 'new' oil of say 500 - 1000 mi. to insure that all of the additive and any remaining varnish and gunk is expelled from the motor.

I'm not trying to take the bread from Jake or Charles mouths, and I think it's great that they claim to have produced a superior lifter. But, I've never seen a hydraulic lifter that was immune to the issues suffered by the oem ones (though several may have greater longevity before succumbing). Nor do I believe we have any longterm 'fleet' data on their new device upon which to make absolute claims.

Then there are those who are budget restricted from implementing the flat6 solution and this method will offer them some relief, even if it may not be 'as good', it's still better than doing nothing, at a price many more can afford. And if performed every 25k mi. or so, should at least stave off the worst of it for many more miles than currently experienced.

[disclaimer] Do your research and adopt this fix on your own accord (placed here so that my wife and I may actually get to retire someday... that is unless HulaBwana finds another way of taking it away from us... )

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Last edited by Lil bastard; 08-06-2009 at 11:19 PM.
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:38 PM   #12
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You are no fun Mr. Lil bastard........mptoledo and myself are trying to play a little hangman here.

Kidding aside, i have to agree on the ATF method...Ive seen this used by my mechanic especially when "breaking in" newly rebuilt engines .
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spine911
You are no fun Mr. Lil bastard........mptoledo and myself are trying to play a little hangman here.

Kidding aside, i have to agree on the ATF method...Ive seen this used by my mechanic especially when "breaking in" newly rebuilt engines .
Yeah, what he said ^.

Hey what is atf? I am sure I got some serious sludge being 60k miles and the previous owner used " M.... 1 " ( I gave you your number) Anybody got a linky?
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Old 08-06-2009, 10:42 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by mptoledo

Hey what is atf? I am sure I got some serious sludge being 60k miles and the previous owner used "

It is just your regular Automatic Transmission Fluid...Ive seen my mechanic use this method several times after complete engine work; ATF is mixed with the engine oil to aid in faster lubrication upon initial start-up, and it also helps clean up the engine's internal parts.

The whole procedure is much like how Mr. Lil bastard described but my mechanic uses a 50/50 (ATF/Engine oil) mix.
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Old 08-06-2009, 11:00 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spine911
...The whole procedure is much like how Mr. Lil bastard described but my mechanic uses a 50/50 (ATF/Engine oil) mix.

HEY!...

Mr. Lil bastard is my father's name... R.I.P.

Just call me L.b.

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Last edited by Lil bastard; 08-06-2009 at 11:24 PM.
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Old 08-07-2009, 12:31 AM   #16
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so I can have my motor inspected and IF they hear/suspect the IMS is failing, I can fix it for $700 and avoid a blown motor??

why not just then have the IMS looked/at replaced every 30k miles or 50k as self insurance.. for those of us w/out extended warranties.... might be a good compromise....

can a Porsche dealer detect this with a "scope" like Jake can, or is this some "special" skill that only he and a select few Porsche m echanics can detect?
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Old 08-07-2009, 05:43 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Lil bastard
HEY!...

Mr. Lil bastard is my father's name... R.I.P.

Just call me L.b.


My condolences, but don't you assume the family name after your father is deceased? You know like Junior then becomes senior, and Ie. LiL Bast II becomes LiL Bast I ect.... So doens't that make you the one and only LiL Bastard?


RE: spine. Thanks, I finally googled "STuck lifters" and found a plethora of info and "home" remedies. As I hear no ticking or other noises, I still might try sea foam. The only problem I just spent a small fortune on castrol and filter. LiL bastard and much of the googling I did suggest changing your oil after and then again shortly down the road. So i may just save up for the lifter repair/replace and maybe an IMS replace. Who know!!
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Last edited by mptoledo; 08-07-2009 at 06:01 AM.
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