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Old 04-12-2009, 07:55 PM   #1
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Getting ready to do the dreaded coolant reservoir change

Started leaking on me last fall. Was able to get through the winter with the cooler temps but the last drive I took on a warm day it dumped a bunch of coolant out by the right rear wheel well. I've got a new tank on the way from Sunset Imports. Can anyone that has done this recommend any special tools that will make the job any easier?

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Old 04-13-2009, 03:14 AM   #2
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Get a long set of needlenose pliers and some screw type clamps to replace the stock spring clamps.
and a box of band-aids
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Old 04-13-2009, 02:35 PM   #3
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Ron

Did this job a couple of weeks ago, invest in hose clamp pliers



Then go for the clamp on the engine side of the firewall through the top, if you stand on the passenger side of car and face towards the front you can reach back with left hand and feel the clamp while holding the end of pliers and hook onto clamp while holding the plier handle in your right ready to squeeze close.

All other connections are via the trunk.

Also no need to drain radiator just reservoir.

Good luck.
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Old 04-13-2009, 03:39 PM   #4
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Travis, thank you! Just the kind of info I was looking for. Looks like my local Sears has one.

Did you re-use the squeeze clamps on the new res or go with the screw type that j.fro recommends?
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Old 04-13-2009, 04:47 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 986_Ron
Travis, thank you! Just the kind of info I was looking for. Looks like my local Sears has one.

Did you re-use the squeeze clamps on the new res or go with the screw type that j.fro recommends?
I actually re-used my clamps as they were in great shape and really could not see it being easier to try and use a screwdriver to get it off if there were to be a next time.

Also one more tip for you, the three hose connections from the trunk side to the reservoir - make sure to mark them as to where they go or layout as removed, diameter of the inside of hose are different.

Once all clamps off, hoses disconnected and screws are out you will have to pull HARD to remove (make sure all are disconnected)

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Old 04-19-2009, 12:17 PM   #6
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Got the tank, and hose clamp pliers. Ready to go, but it's raining today and don't have room right now to pull it in the garage. One final question for you Travis, am I going to have to get at this from underneath or can I do everything from above?
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Old 04-19-2009, 01:36 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 986_Ron
Got the tank, and hose clamp pliers. Ready to go, but it's raining today and don't have room right now to pull it in the garage. One final question for you Travis, am I going to have to get at this from underneath or can I do everything from above?
Everything is from the top

If you run into any issues and need to chat send me an email tm8545 AT gmail.com and I can give you a ring.

It is really not that hard, just a PITA to reach, but not more than a 5 Beer job
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Old 05-01-2010, 12:31 PM   #8
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Well, it will be a year tomorrow since I did my coolant reservoir change. Thought I'd post up some pics.

Coolant tank part number 996-106-447-08 was $185.74
New cap was $13.56 plus freight
Both were ordered from ****************************************************

Here's the new tank. You can see they do away with the oil dipstick hole in the new one.



Here's the latest reservoir cap on the left and the old one on the right.



Start by disconnecting the trunk light wiring.



And trunk latch cover



Remove the interior pieces.





I started out just removing the rear and side pieces but ended up taking the complete trunk liner out in the end.

These are the remote clamp pliers I ended up buying.



Disconnecting the individual hoses one at a time and swapping them over to the new tank.



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Old 05-01-2010, 12:33 PM   #9
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Here is where the remote clamp tool really comes in handy, the hose in the engine compartment.





Just before pulling the old tank, you can see where the coolant was going.





The old tank



And the new one



Trunk wall feed through plate.





New tank going in, attaching the hoses to feed through.

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Old 05-01-2010, 12:35 PM   #10
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Final stretch, new tank in.



I got fairly bruised up reaching in to the engine compartment trying to get that one pesky clamp off...




All in all this took me about 3 or 4 hours with plenty of beer breaks. I used the following writeup to help me with the swap. I could knock this out in a couple hours if I had to do it a second time, and it was nice saving what I'm sure would have been hundreds of dollars in labor.

http://www.dietersmotorsports.com/tech/tech9-03-2003.htm
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Old 04-02-2013, 05:04 PM   #11
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Could it be the reservoir hoses?

I am following the instructions to replace the reservoir -- thank you for the nice work -- and after removing the carpeting I noticed that most coolant is accumulated under the hoses by the wall feed through plate. Is it possible that the hoses might be the problem?

I do not have the heavy accumulation of coolant as shown in the picture but coolant is spread half way through the trunk with most under the wall feed through plate.

Should I still proceed to remove the tank? Any advise would be appreciated.

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Old 04-03-2013, 05:18 AM   #12
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Thanassis,
Rent a tank pressure tester from autozone. This will help you find the true source of the leak. If you have coolant in your trunk, the tank likely has a small leak...but it's always nice to verify!
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:55 AM   #13
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My cooling system recently went and I wish I replaced the tank as well as the pump and thermostat, just so that I dont have to worry about it in the future. The mechanic insisted the tank was fine, but now its allowing condensation through the bleeder so I need to fool around with it.

Does the cooling system need to be completely flushed and bled if you change out the tank? Can you just remove the coolant in the tank and hose and just replace when complete?
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Old 04-26-2013, 10:16 PM   #14
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sorry if this is obvious but with the new tank, no need for dipstick at all than? does it seal it shut? kinda like the dip stick as a secondary check.
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Old 04-27-2013, 06:48 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by embryoguy@mac.com View Post
sorry if this is obvious but with the new tank, no need for dipstick at all than? does it seal it shut? kinda like the dip stick as a secondary check.
What dipstick? The only dipstick I'm aware of is for oil and has nothing to do with the coolant tank. They are next to each other and share a thin plastic cover... That is all.

I hope you're working with detailed instructions.
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:22 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by embryoguy@mac.com View Post
sorry if this is obvious but with the new tank, no need for dipstick at all than? does it seal it shut? kinda like the dip stick as a secondary check.

I think for the older models that still have a dipstick you should make a hole like there was in the old tank mounting plate so that you can re-install the dipstick. That's what I did anyway. The location for it is marked on the new tank.
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:37 AM   #17
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Are the new tanks made any better or supposed to last longer?
How many miles or years should you expect to get out of an original tank?
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:39 AM   #18
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My bad, I did not realize the newest tanks had a blank where the dipstick used to be. I would definitely keep the dipstick!!!
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Old 04-27-2013, 08:04 PM   #19
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You can also push into the engine compartment the rubber holding the electric harness and that will give you more room to get your hand in/out to reach to the clamps. I just finish this project a couple of months ago. When you are finished, just pull it back in being careful not to brake any cables... Recommend a long sleeve shirt or nitrale gloves to cover your arms... Good luck.
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Old 07-15-2013, 01:41 PM   #20
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Hi, does it required a new coolant level sensor by installing new tank?

thanks

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