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Old 03-31-2009, 03:13 PM   #1
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"Bedding" new brake pads

While researching what brake pads to buy for my Boxster, I noted that many of you prefer to use the OEM pads available from Porsche (Textar) and Pagid pads. So, that's what I bought. I bought Textar pads as well as rotors and hardware from Sunset Imports for a fair price.
The Textar pads did not come with any "bedding" procedure, so I spent much time digging up dozens of opinions about how to bed new pads. You'd need a race track to follow some of the procedures that I found!!!
Confused, I contacted the corporation that makes both Textar and Pagid. They sent me the attached procedure which is really quite simple. For these brands, I would advise this procedure unless there is a specific procedure provided with the new pads, written by the manufacturer.
For what it's worth, I followed the procedure and my new front brakes are great. I was surprised to learn what they said about rear brakes..... See attachment.

Bob

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Old 08-20-2011, 07:05 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobiam
While researching what brake pads to buy for my Boxster, I noted that many of you prefer to use the OEM pads available from Porsche (Textar) and Pagid pads. So, that's what I bought. I bought Textar pads as well as rotors and hardware from Sunset Imports for a fair price.
The Textar pads did not come with any "bedding" procedure, so I spent much time digging up dozens of opinions about how to bed new pads. You'd need a race track to follow some of the procedures that I found!!!
Confused, I contacted the corporation that makes both Textar and Pagid. They sent me the attached procedure which is really quite simple. For these brands, I would advise this procedure unless there is a specific procedure provided with the new pads, written by the manufacturer.
For what it's worth, I followed the procedure and my new front brakes are great. I was surprised to learn what they said about rear brakes..... See attachment.

Bob
I am a newbie but where is the attachment Bob?
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Old 08-20-2011, 07:19 PM   #3
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Don't know!!!! I'll look it up on my other PC and attach it soon.

Bob
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Old 10-22-2011, 05:35 AM   #4
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Don't know!!!! I'll look it up on my other PC and attach it soon.

Bob

Hey Bob! What's your definition of "soon"? (I would be interested in reading their recommendations as well.)
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Old 10-22-2011, 08:07 AM   #5
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Go out and get the brakes as very hot as quickly as possible. Usually for me that means around five or six stops near threshold braking (no ABS) from 90 to 10. Then drive around for ten minutes somewhere you won't have to touch the brake pedal at all.
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Old 10-22-2011, 08:34 AM   #6
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Hey Bob! What's your definition of "soon"? (I would be interested in reading their recommendations as well.)
I'm retired.... "Soon" can be years!

Sorry for forgetting.....Here....

BRAKE PAD BEDDING IN PROCEDURE

New brake pads have to be bedded in upon installation. Correct bedding guarantees that new brake pads and new rotors work flawlessly together. In order to function optimally, organic brake pads must develop friction coal on its surface. This friction coal develops at a temperature of about 280 degrees C (537F). It is very important that this temperature is reached continuously and slowly. This process results that the temperature not only is penetrating the surface of the brake discs and pads, but also evenly through the whole disc and pad material. This is essential when using new brake discs, since the disc often shows signs of strains (due to the casting process and fast cooling) in the materials. A steady and careful warming and cooling process guarantees a good release of both materials.

The bedding in/brake in procedure should be done as follows:
Drive at around 35 mph (60 kmh) about 500 800 yards (solid discs about 500 yards, vented discs 750 yards) with slightly dragging brakes (a.k.a. light brake pedal pressure) (brake pressure < 5 bar). This process allows the brake temperature to slowly and evenly build up to 300 degrees C (572F).
Now if possible drive about 2200 yards maintaining same speed without braking to allow the pads and discs to evenly cool down. At the end perform a regular brake application from 35 mph to 0. However, no Panic Stop.
Now the friction surface evenly developed friction coal, the pads bonded with the disc surface, and tensions in the disc materials disappeared.
Only trained master mechanics should perform this procedure not the car owner.
This bedding process is only suitable for the front axle not the rear.
This is related to the brake distribution of front and rear axles. In order to reach 300 degrees C (527 F) on the rear pads you would have to drive several miles with dragging brakes. However, at that time on the front axles you will have glowing red, hot discs thus destroying the front brakes.
Final note please never forget to clean hubs and check wheel bearings. Also the brake fluid should be replaced at least every 2 years.
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Old 10-26-2011, 07:55 PM   #7
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Here is another bedding procedure from EBC:

Drive your vehicle steadily within the first 300-400 miles of road use only using the brakes violently in case of emergency. During this time use the brakes lightly and intermittently to achieve a matching between the pad and rotor which we call break in or bed in.

The speed with which perfect brake in will have occurred depends on how often the brakes are used. If you drive on a freeway or motorway and do not use your brakes for miles at a time, break in periods will be much longer. Using the brakes with caution during their early life will extend their wear life and greatly reduce the chances of rotor vibration or “shimmying”.

During the bed in time the pads will only contact the disc on a limited area until tiny irregularities in machining or misalignment of the pads against the rotor have been removed. You can easily see how far you have progressed with bedding in your new brakes by looking through the wheel spokes and evaluating pad contact. The rotor should look shiny and smooth across its surfaces from outside to inside in all areas of the rotor.

After you are confident that the pads and discs are perfectly mated, use the brakes on a quiet and safe road 5-6 times at medium pressure bringing the car from 60mph to 10mph. Drive the vehicle for a few miles to allow the brakes to cool and repeat this procedure.

During this final break in a brake odour will almost certainly appear and this is perfectly normal. This is known as green fade where the surface resins within the pad finally cure and burn off.
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Old 10-26-2011, 09:26 PM   #8
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I use CarboTech pads for the track and they really bite compared to the OEM pads.

Here is their bedding procedure for XP and AX Series Compounds :

All new brake pads require a bedding process, start this process by pumping your brakes a few times to assure proper installation. Once on track perform several moderate (medium) near stops (to a very slow rolling speed) to thoroughly warm up the pads and rotors. This should take 1-2 laps. This allows a thin layer of the pad material to be transferred into the micro-grooves of the rotor.
After the pads/rotors are warm, perform a series of hard near stops (to a slow rolling speed) until some brake fade is felt. This process should take about 2-4 laps (depending on the track). Once this occurs, then stay off the brakes (as much as possible) and bring your car into the pits/paddock to completely cool. Do not lock the tires during this operation.
Allow brake pads and/or rotors cool down to ambient temperatures; no less than 30 minutes. The total bedding procedure should not take more than 5-6 laps or about 10-15 minutes.

NOTE: The proper way to bed your brake pads and brake discs (rotors) is to bed them on the racetrack, NOT on the street.

Warning: Failure to properly bed in your pads could lead to friction material to chunk and break up resulting in poor pad performance and pad life. Improper bedding can also lead to overheating your pads and causing them to glaze over resulting in the car not being able to stop or slow properly.


Having said all that, I did it it on the street, with 7 or 8 runs from 80 down to 15, then a leisurely couple of miles with as little braking as possible.

I swapped cars at the track with a ZR-1 and the driver said, "I want my brakes to feel like this!"

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