3.4 Project Begins UPDATES!
 

12pm today the motor showed up from LA Porsche. It was put on a plane and arrived at JFK this morning and came to my house. Here are some of the photos that I took while it was in my driveway. If anyone wants other detailed photos of the 3.4 still in its carrera form please let me know and I will take the photos asap. I ordered some assorted gaskets from porsche today and there not going to come in for a few days so the motor will stay together untill then. Enjoy. I am going to try and do a real detailed write up on the whole swap and if I can get some video of things coming off and on I will be doing that also.


http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0282.jpg
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Now that you've got it, how much was it?

6400.00 shipped. I have the throttle body for it also. Just not pictured.
:dance:

Subscribed, can't wait to see the end result.

Great photos, cannt wait to see how it turns out,

Ed

:cheers:

Have fun
 

Its not as hard as it appears!

Agreed. It does not look too difficult. I do see some differences from todds writeup. I am going to focus on some details that I think will be beneficial to others that may want to do this swap.

Anyone have an oil dipstick, the housing? I forgot that I broke mine when I took the motor out.

I don't think this is exactly what you're after, but check it out: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/986M/POR_986M_ENGoil_pg1.htm#item2
You could always contact pelican or suncoast for the specifics. The Oil Filler tube is only $38, so the dipstick tube couldn't be that much.

yea, not that. I found one on ebay but it is for a newer year and a S. So I don't know if the placement will wind up the same in my trunk. Thanks for looking though, it's pretty cool that you even looked that far for me.

Jay

interesting. I cannot wait to read ur writeup!

So the project really begins...

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0264.jpg

Boxster 2.5 on the left Carrera 3.4 on the right

First off let me say these motors are heavy. 450lbs to be exact.

Below is the photo of the front motor mount mounting hole that is talked about in todd's swap. For some reason or another I do not have that on my boxster or the 3.4 motor. I am just pointing it out to show you. This is a photo of the 2.5 motor. The front motor mount is only bolted up with three 15mm bolts.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0292.jpg

The 3.4 has the same three bolt locations so there there was no reason for me to concern myself with the extra bolt location. The photo below shows the stock 3.4 mount.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0268.jpg

So I removed both mounts the 3.4 and the 2.5. The big difference is that the 3.4 is mounted with studs and the 2.5 is mounted with bolts. These need to be swapped. I just used a vice grip and spun out the studs on the 3.4 and used the 2.5 bolts. They were a perfect fit. The reason for this is the 2.5 mount is thicker than the 3.4 metal. Photo below to show what I mean.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0299.jpg

To be continued in a few minutes... Dinner time.. :)

Actually, all four mounting bolts are present on both engines, it is the cap screw to the right of your finger in the second photo. The old boxster engine mount on your 986 motor simply doesn't have the fourth mounting position. The first update of the mount many years ago was to add the fourth mounting position. I would recommend updating the front mount to the newest mount and use all four mounting points while you have things apart.

Also there are 4 mounting points on the 996 mount. Remove the stud of the one to the upper right in the photo and replace it with the cap screw at the same position on the front of the boxster motor. As you already found out the mounting studs on the 996 motor must be removed and you use the boxster mounting bolts.

It is too late now but you don't need to break open the AC system to remove the motor, just remove the compressor from the motor, that way recharging the system isn't necessary.
Have fun.

-Todd

Thanks for the update about the updated mount.

I had no real method to my madness on the breakdown of this all. So next I started swapping some things from Todd's write up. Here are some photos of some parts that were swapped, and all need new gaskets. 2.5 photos first then the 3.4 photos.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0271.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0272.jpg

So those two water outlets have to be swapped along with these also.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0274.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0273.jpg

Here are two more parts that have to be swapped. The first on is the cap that is on the water pipe on the 2.5 motor and then other is the water outlet from the 3.4 These also need new gaskets.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0304.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0305.jpg

Next I looked at the Oil Pressure Gauge sensor. If you want to keep it all in stock location you have to do some moving and plugging. I did not get to do this yet but I took some shots of what you have to work with. The sensor sits on the opposite side of the motor on the 3.4 than the 2.5 You could use the 3.4 sensor, I am just going to use the 2.5 sensor. If there is any question which is which the 3.4 sensor is the larger gold vdo sensor.

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http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0280.jpg

I took a photo of the plug to fill where the old sensor was. These plugs are on both motors just on the opposite sides.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0279.jpg

Next I took off the intake manifolds. There is no real magic to this, just becarefull of the different vacuum lines not to break them. After I took them off I removed the oil filler tube from the 3.4 and removed the oil dipstick tube from the 3.4 I did not replace them yet with the 2.5 fittings. I have not taken the other motor apart yet to this point. I don't know if you have to do this but I pulled the alternator pulley and bolt to move it over a tiny bit to get to one of the 10mm bolts holing in the oil filler tube. The oil filler tube and dipstick need new grommets too.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0319.jpg

Here is a photo of the solenoid that Todd spoke of, the one that you have to run a wire from.. TODD I NEED A PIN :) Also a picture of the actuator and the internals of the plenum.

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http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0314.jpg

For now this is where I am at. I am awaiting gaskets from the dealer. All the parts in the photos are just mocked up for now for the photos and so I didn't loose anything. Todd informed me that I can use a clutch from a non-S 987. I am waiting for that too.

To be continued in another couple days..

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this is a REALLY great writeup. When you are all done, you should put all the photos/video together into some sort of large document. who knows, maybe you could sell it....

as these cars age, become cheaper, and there are more high mileage 986s that need motor transplants, there will be more people willing to do a swap.

I know that if I have my car long enough - and needed to do a new motor - and I decided to pay the money to do it - I'd for SURE spend the little extra to do what you did and put a 3.4L or 3.6L into my car. I have a 2.7 base - so I think I can only do a 3.4L... like you are doing.

your car is going to be FAST when you are done. you are going to go from about 200hp to about 300hp. :) overall weight of your car should not change much if at all - right?!?

you should outrun a new 987S. for a lot less money spent.

is that price for you rmotor standard or did you get some smokin' cheap deal?
$6400 for the engine doesn't sound too bad given the quotes I have heard just for stock motors! even if I had to do this and paid a pro/independent to do the labor - you could be OTD for under $15k - and probably add in some headers, ehxaust, new clutch while you're at it....

keep us posted on your project!!! what is your anticipated date of completion?

I am only following Todd's write up that was done a long time ago. He is the man! The things I am posting are some of the things that I did not know needed to be done. I have headers and exhaust already for the car so that is all going back on. I am actually running out the door now to go order my clutch and more gaskets. Check back later on. I am going to maybe do some more work on the motors tonight and take more photos.

The price I got was not some insane price I don't think. You can find these motors on ebay for around 7k. And for your car you would want to do a 3.6 or a 3.8 I believe. Don't trust me on that. Thanks for the comments. Check back later on this evening after 9pm NY time. :)

As for completion. I would say in and running in the next 2 weeks. I need to find someone to reflash my ecu with the 3.4's. I don't know who I am going to use yet for that. I don't want to spend 1k on a reflash.

If you can't find anyone local I can help you out with the programming and provide you with the pin you need for the DME connector.

-Todd

The pin I do need. As for the programming I do not have anyone local here. I live way out on Long Island NY about an hour and a half east of NYC. There are many porsche shops but no tuners. If you could PM me and let me know what your thinking. Thanks again for all your input.

Jay

This is a useless photo that I stumbled over on my photobucket page from when the car was supercharged.. I just thought it was cool. More info on the swap below the photo. :)

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSCN0171.jpg

Tonight I took the 2.5 intake manifolds off and removed the harness from it. I also relocated the oil pressure sensor and plugged the whole from which it came from. Also replaced the hose from the top of the oil cooler on the 3.4 to the hose from the 2.5. Swapped the A/C lines but did not get to the P/S lines. I am not too sure on how one of them comes off so I am going to wait until some one can help or tell me on that one. Also Swapped out the wiring for the alternator, that was a direct swap also. Removed the oil filler tube from the 2.5 and I am still waiting on gaskets and O rings to put those parts back on. I started to plug in the boxster harness on the 3.4 while all the clips where still fresh in my mind. That is when I stopped for tonight. It is cold and the Kerosene makes me see things. LOL. Sorry that I didn't post any photos. I took a photo of the oil pressure sender but it is not that exciting to see. As for the harness swapping and all that. It is all straight foward for the most part so I left that out also. I don't want to re write Todd's PDF just share what I am doing and what I feel might be important to others who may do this.

J

That's awesome. Wish I was handy enough to do something like that myself.

Btw, are there any concerns about the 5-speed tranny being able to handle the extra power of the 3.4? I know a guy who has a 3.4 installed in his Boxster also, and he said he was on his 3rd 5-speed tranny already. He tracks his car though. I've driven his car, and the extra power is definitely a nice kick!

I assume you mean the hard line that connects directly to the reservoir. If so, hold the red ring evenly against the reservoir with the sides of a pair of needle nose pliers or the like. It is essential that it is evenly pushed in, while holding it against the housing, simply pull the hard line out of the housing. To reinstall, just push it back in.
Hope that is clear.

Boxtaboy,

I think your friend needs to invest in a trans oil cooler if he is going through transmissions like that (or driving lessons :) ). I have over 107k miles on my car with the original transmission. The car has been a supercharged 2.5, a 3.4, a 3.6 and a 3.6 X51 for most of those miles.

-Todd

Dang! :) He's actually a DE instructor! :D

that doesn't necessarily mean he's a good driver ;)

Does he advise "Go that way very fast. If something get's in your way, turn."?
:D

996 Fuel lines flipped around to boxster location on the 996 motor.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0275-2.jpg

Todd,

Do I flip them back around to stock 996 location and run a shorter return or do I leave them the way the boxster lines are placed and run a longer return?

I replied to your PM. If you want to use the 996 rails, you don't have to, you need to get an adapter and lengthen the supply line from the passenger side to the drivers side fitting. You will also need to fabricate a longer return line in order to work on the 996 rails. Using the boxster rails is easier, just cut off the mounting tabs and place them on top of the rails to work on the taller 996 intake.

Make sure you take off the 996 exhaust mounts before you put the motor back in.

-Todd

Ok. I finally got some of the gaskets that I ordered in. Below is a photo of the engine suspended by a non approved method by porsche :) This is what happens when you do not have a engine stand but have a lighting equipment company. I needed to get the motor off the floor to get the carrera mounts off it and the headers and also the water lines that run underneath the motor. We do not have water lines that run under our 986 motor just incase you were wondering. I was also able at this point to swap the lower water outlet in the other photo below with the motor in the air.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0277-1.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0278-1.jpg

I was able also to finish up the boxster wiring harness, P/S lines, oil filler tube, and oil dipstick base. Our Dipsticks are two parts, they just snap apart with the push of a tab.

Random photo of the trapeze setup.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0280-1.jpg

The P/S lines are pretty straight foward of a swap. To get to the lines it is easier to remove the A/C compressor than not to. You also have to swap over a small metal clip that holds a connector and is also a ground point. It also holds the P/S line. This needs to be swapped because the P/S lines are just routed a bit different. You also have to remove the pulley on the P/S pump to get to the one fitting that goes into the pump. Here are some photos of the pulley, little metal bracket and A/C bolts.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0290-2.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0287-2.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0293-1.jpg

Photo of the lower P/S line connection to the pump and the rear P/S line connected to the pump. The red ring that you see in the second picture is the piece that holds in that line. Todd told me how to get the line out for this one. You have to hold that little red clip in against the pump and then you will be able to pull the line straight out. I used a small pair of needle nose to hold it in place. It can be a bit of a pain but it is not a big deal. Then to reinstall the boxster line just simply hold the red clip against the pump again and push in the new line.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0288-2.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0292-1.jpg

The other things that I did that really didn't get pictures but I think should be in the post, the oil filler tube and the lower dipstick tube both got new O-rings. No reason not to change them while they were out. I also ordered new O-rings for the injectors and a new clutch. I am going to be using a clutch out of a non-s 987. Todd has assured me that this is the way to go.

A photo of everything that I have done so far. I am now waiting for a throttle body gasket and intake manifold gaskets, clutch etc....

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0284-2.jpg

great thread
 

Just have to say...this thread is awesome. It's really nice have something so interesting to read while at work! :cheers:
Thanks for the great info and pictures.

bolts?
 

When removing the exhaust from the 3.4L, did any of the bolts break?

None of the header bolts broke. I have to say, taking apart that motor so far has been like taking apart a brand new motor. KNOCK ON WOOD
Getting my clutch I think this week and should have the motor in at the end of the week if all goes good with gaskets and all that.

I am still waiting for parts from porsche. I am going to move forward and do what I can with out these parts. I took a picture of my flywheel. This is the flywheel out of my boxster. I just had it changed along with my clutch before I pulled the motor. I am no longer using the stock clutch but I will be using my stock flywheel. I took it out today and didn't realize that it had accumlated quite a bit of rust. Check out the photo below.

Before Photo.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0435.jpg

I was pretty sure that I was going to have to buy a new one. :(
I went out to my local hardware store and bought some #2 and #00 steel wool and some WD40. I started with the #2 and finished off with the #00. I think the results were great.
Let me know what you think. Do you think I need a new flywheel? Also does anyone know if I need new flywheel bolts? Do they stretch? Correct me if I am wrong, 90ftlbs tourque on the crank bolts and 25 ftlbs on the pressure plate bolts.

After Photo.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0438.jpg

Replace the pilot bearing and it looks fine to me. Rust is fine it'll rust again.

Nice job cleaning up the flywheel.

If you need an extra pair of hands, send me a PM. I'm in Freeport, New York and I could shoot over there if you are stuck.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks for the advice and the offers. Schoir, I will pm you when I am all done. Trade some war stories.

I forgot to ask.. The Pilot bearing..........How do I get it out and how do I get the new one back in?

The pilot bearing is pressed out from the backside toward the front and pressed back in from the front. Similar to a wheel bearing, putting the new bearing in the freezer will aid in re-installation.
-Todd

I am going to my dealer tomorrow morning to pick up the rest of my gaskets and what not. I am going to ask my buddy over there to see if one of the techs will do it for me.