Back at it again today. I have limited time to work on the motor. Today I urethaned my front motor mount. I needed a new one but the ghetto came out of me and here is what happened.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0442.jpg
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Urethane :)

Beyond the mount being urethaned I pretty much finished up the motor assembly. I have to get my fuel lines staightend out and then she is going back in the car.

Does anyone, Todd, know what this clip is for? I feel pretty dumb asking but I can't figure it out. It is on the drivers side of the motor on the last leg of the harness that has the injector and the ignition coil on it. It has the same damn plug as the injectors. I can't figure it out. It has the orange ring around it. Here is a photo or two. HELP! :)

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0465.jpg
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Just another photo of where I left off today.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0470.jpg

If it is a red/black and purple wire it is for the tank venting valve or evap valve depending on what you want to call it.

Also, if I were you i'd seriously reconsider using the early 3-point motor mount. There is a reason Porsche changed the design when the motors go larger. If you want to rebuild one I have a couple 4-point mounts kicking around I'll be happy to send you one for the cost of shipping.

-Todd

I believe that is the colors. I'm at work now. I'll look later. I still don't see anyhting to plug it in to. Am I missing something.

Yes, there is a hose that runs from the throttle body to a small electric valve that this connector regulates. This in turn attaches to the chassis and runs up to the evap system by the fuel filler. The valve is probably still mounted to the intake manifold on your old engine.

-Todd

Damn it!.. :) You're always right. Still bolted to the bottom of my manifold. Thanks once again.

Fuel Lines UPDATED!!!
 

I went to my local fittings place and had my fuel lines figured out. This is what I came up with. As it looks right now I am only going to be using the fittings on the left side of the photo.

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Put together fuel feed.

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Fuel feed on thee 996 rail and fuel feed hose on it.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0494.jpg

The little black fitting in the lower right corner of the photos is our stock fuel return connection. I was going to use this but then looking further into how I am going to make these connections I don't think that is a good choice. I stripped back the factory lines off the rails. There are barb fittings on them. I am going to run a new fuel line off the return barb straight to the factory fitting that is metal. It is a nice tight fit as it is but I am going to put a hose clamp on it. For the fuel feed you can see the photo of the fitting that I put together to run from the 996 rail over the motor to the factory fuel line. The factory fuel feed line I also took off the factory line and stripped it back to just the metal line. I am going to just run new fuel hose over to that metal line and clamp that also. Sorry for my terrible sentence structure.

The photo below if you look on the outer left side of the rail, by the way this is now the drivers side of the motor this will be on, on the outer side you will see the old welded on return rail. I am bypassing this just to save on connections. I figure the fewer the better. So now the return line is coming directly from the fuel pressure regulator side.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0485.jpg

I would reconsider ditching the factory fitting for the return line on the chassis. It works just fine with aeroquip -4 socketless hose and putting a hose directly on the metal line under the car is not a good idea IMHO. It is a smooth pipe with no raised surface or barbing for the hose clamp to. Smooth hose on smooth pipe clamp or not does not make for a good solution, especially when fuel is involved. Especially when it points right at the exhaust headers.

-Todd

I understand your concern about the return. I haven't got to deep into the return line. Is there a spot where the return line will unscrew and I can get a aeroquip fitting on it? I think that the fuel supply will be fine with a hose clamp being that there is a flare in the line.

Thanks again

I read your post wrong. I was going to reuse the factory fitting and was toying with the idea of putting the line directly on the old metal line. But you brought up a good point with the non barb or flare on the factory return line. So putting the fuel line onto the factory fitting with aeroquip socketless line, I would think that you would have to put a small clamp on that also.....??? Let me know if I am heading in the right direction now.

I ran out to the garage and just fitted the fitting on the line quick. It is not cut to length, I will do that once the motor is in. I threw a clamp on it and just wanted to know if this is what you would think is better.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0464-2.jpg

This is a picture of the metal line that we are talking about. This is located right behind the drivers seat kind of underneath the car.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0473-2.jpg

Yes, the return line looks fine. You don't need to cut the supply line. You can get an adapter fitting to fit the metric threads on the current supply line fitting and use AN hose and a metric fitting to extend to the 996 fuel rail. That way everything is completely reversible.

-Todd

OK.. I didn't trace the fuel feed back that far. Where does it unscrew. You are talking about the feed line not on the rail right?

I think you are confused again. I am talking about the fitting that attached the feed line to the boxster rail. You can get a metric to AN adapter that will allow you to attach your new section of feed hose to this fitting without cutting the chassis side fuel line up to attach the hose with your new fitting for the 996 rail to the chassis metal fuel feed tube.

-Todd

I already cut off the plastic fuel line that was attached to the metal feed. It has a flare in it so I feel that that should be sufficient to put the new fuel line to. If you want I can take a photo of everything to better explain.

I understand exactly what you did, I just personally would have never done it that way.

-Todd

I just wanted to have as few connections as possible.

Jaay:

I don't know exactly how far you have gotten, but, if the engine is not yet installed, you might want to consider checking the IMS bearing for wear or play.

Here is a link to a video produced by Charles Navarro of LN Engineering, which will give you a good idea on what is involved:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvLRMGs-Ti8

If you have the single-row bearing on your new engine, you can retrofit an upgraded, severe duty ceramic bearing without tearing down the engine.

You only have to remove the flywheel and the IMS flange to examine and/or replace the bearing.

IMHO, it is well worth the effort for the peace of mind it will afford you.

Regards, Maurice.

Schoir,

I did look through their site. Seems like a good thing to do. It also seems to be alot of money. I know at this point whats another 600 bux. Do you have any experience on any of these? I don't know what is involved in pulling the piece off that there speaking of. The motor is not yet in the car. I was waiting for a pilot bearing to come, which finally got here. Let me know if you have any more info on this. Thanks for the concern.

Jay

Seems like good insurance to me to install the retrofit kit, and it makes the most sense since the engine is out of the car. Their bearing is a severe duty ceramic bearing, coupled with a beefier support stud (which is weak in the original because it also has a deep groove cut into it, as well as the stud being too thin for comfort) and a beefier flange.

At the very least, remove the IMS flange and the nut on the end of the support stud that you will find when you remove the flange. You can then manipulate the support stud the same way that Charles Navarro does in his video and see if there is any axial or radial play in the bearing.

He also recommends that you remove the seal on the front of the bearing to permit better cooling and lubrication. His theory is that the sealed bearing's grease gets washed out by fuel contaminated oil, especially if there are long oil change intervals involved and the seal prevents fresh oil (from the engine) from getting in there to lubricate it. The result is what is pictured in the pitted and corroded ball bearings in his video. I can't vouch for this approach, but I certainly would investigate it further as it seems to be logical: if the original grease in the bearing gets washed out and there is no access for the engine oil to lubricate the bearing, it seems logical that the bearing would not hold up.

If you have a single-row bearing, after you remove the flange and the nut you can extract the bearing after removing the metal circlip that holds it captive. I would call Jake Raby or Charles Navarro directly as they are very helpful.

If you have a double-row bearing, it can't be replaced without engine teardown, but, at least if you inspect it as described above, it will give you peace of mind that it's stable.

IMO it's better to at the very least know the condition of the IMS before re-installing the engine.

Regards, Maurice.

I have a dual row bearing in this case means I cannot do there retrofit kit. :( I just went out side and checked it out. There kit only works with the single row bearing. I was able to take the nut off it though and try and wiggle it around. There was no play at all. I take this as a good sign.

I want to add to this whole project...

This would not take this long at all to do if the parts came quick and if I did not have only one day a week to mess around with it. I don't even get the full day, just a few hours here and there. I am getting married this weekend in disney world so it has been crazy. I am going to get this thing back in the car when I get back from disney. All the parts are assembled and ready to go except for putting the flywheel and clutch on and then the tranny. I am dropping off my flywheel at porsche today for the new pilot bearing to be pressed in. If you had all the parts and everything prepped I think you could do this in a long weekend.

J

JAAY:

Definitely a VERY good sign that there was no play. Glad you checked it out, it should give you some peace of mind.

Regards, Maurice.

Congratulations on your upcoming nuptials! :cheers:

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks. I can't wait to get down to Florida. I am glad there was no play in the bearing too. Once I get back I can't wait to get this thing in the car. It has been laid up now since November 07. I'll be surprised if everything still works. Top, lights etc....

Looking forward to following the rest of this. Thanks for taking the time to take the pics and post this Jaay!

Great write thanks for the updates, hope Disney was a blast.


Gary

2 photos of the motor in the car. Not running yet but I am sure as hell happy that I am at this point. I felt like I would never see the motor in the car.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0488-1.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0495.jpg

jaay -

i'm getting ready to do my 3.4L swap this summer. i'm in the process of sourcing shop equipment (hoist, engine stand, motorcycle jack, etc) and have a couple of questions:

1) how high off the ground did you have to get the oil pan in order for the motor to clear everything (height-wise) on the way out?

2) what did you use to jack the engine into / out of the car & how high did it have to extend?

the reason i ask is that i'm considering a specific motorcycle jack that goes from 4.5" fully collapsed to 16" fully extended. i'm not sure if this gives me enough height to reach the bottom of the motor once the car is up in the air.

Too bad you're not close to Dallas, TX, as I have all of the shop equipment you'll need and would be glad to lend it to you. Harbor Freight has a very nice motorcycle/atv Jack that works perfect for lowering the engine out. There is a thread on Renntech.org where a guy just r&r'd his motor using this Jack. I can send you a link later to his web site where he did an excellent write up with pictures.

that would be great. i actually already picked up a hoist & engine stand from harbor freight and was considering the motorcycle jack, but wasn't sure whether it would reach w/ the car up. definitely post the website w/ the pics if you get a chance.

http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?/topic/31033-remove-your-m96-engine/page__p__172135__fromsearch__1&#entry172135

That's the link to the thread, which has links to his website

http://www.nutrod.com/

Hi Jaay,

I just wanted to know if you ran into any problems getting the engine running from your last post a year ago.

Thanks