Back at it again today. I have limited time to work on the motor. Today I urethaned my front motor mount. I needed a new one but the ghetto came out of me and here is what happened.

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Urethane :)

Beyond the mount being urethaned I pretty much finished up the motor assembly. I have to get my fuel lines staightend out and then she is going back in the car.

Does anyone, Todd, know what this clip is for? I feel pretty dumb asking but I can't figure it out. It is on the drivers side of the motor on the last leg of the harness that has the injector and the ignition coil on it. It has the same damn plug as the injectors. I can't figure it out. It has the orange ring around it. Here is a photo or two. HELP! :)

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Just another photo of where I left off today.

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If it is a red/black and purple wire it is for the tank venting valve or evap valve depending on what you want to call it.

Also, if I were you i'd seriously reconsider using the early 3-point motor mount. There is a reason Porsche changed the design when the motors go larger. If you want to rebuild one I have a couple 4-point mounts kicking around I'll be happy to send you one for the cost of shipping.

-Todd

I believe that is the colors. I'm at work now. I'll look later. I still don't see anyhting to plug it in to. Am I missing something.

Yes, there is a hose that runs from the throttle body to a small electric valve that this connector regulates. This in turn attaches to the chassis and runs up to the evap system by the fuel filler. The valve is probably still mounted to the intake manifold on your old engine.

-Todd

Damn it!.. :) You're always right. Still bolted to the bottom of my manifold. Thanks once again.

Fuel Lines UPDATED!!!
 

I went to my local fittings place and had my fuel lines figured out. This is what I came up with. As it looks right now I am only going to be using the fittings on the left side of the photo.

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Put together fuel feed.

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Fuel feed on thee 996 rail and fuel feed hose on it.

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The little black fitting in the lower right corner of the photos is our stock fuel return connection. I was going to use this but then looking further into how I am going to make these connections I don't think that is a good choice. I stripped back the factory lines off the rails. There are barb fittings on them. I am going to run a new fuel line off the return barb straight to the factory fitting that is metal. It is a nice tight fit as it is but I am going to put a hose clamp on it. For the fuel feed you can see the photo of the fitting that I put together to run from the 996 rail over the motor to the factory fuel line. The factory fuel feed line I also took off the factory line and stripped it back to just the metal line. I am going to just run new fuel hose over to that metal line and clamp that also. Sorry for my terrible sentence structure.

The photo below if you look on the outer left side of the rail, by the way this is now the drivers side of the motor this will be on, on the outer side you will see the old welded on return rail. I am bypassing this just to save on connections. I figure the fewer the better. So now the return line is coming directly from the fuel pressure regulator side.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0485.jpg

I would reconsider ditching the factory fitting for the return line on the chassis. It works just fine with aeroquip -4 socketless hose and putting a hose directly on the metal line under the car is not a good idea IMHO. It is a smooth pipe with no raised surface or barbing for the hose clamp to. Smooth hose on smooth pipe clamp or not does not make for a good solution, especially when fuel is involved. Especially when it points right at the exhaust headers.

-Todd

I understand your concern about the return. I haven't got to deep into the return line. Is there a spot where the return line will unscrew and I can get a aeroquip fitting on it? I think that the fuel supply will be fine with a hose clamp being that there is a flare in the line.

Thanks again

I read your post wrong. I was going to reuse the factory fitting and was toying with the idea of putting the line directly on the old metal line. But you brought up a good point with the non barb or flare on the factory return line. So putting the fuel line onto the factory fitting with aeroquip socketless line, I would think that you would have to put a small clamp on that also.....??? Let me know if I am heading in the right direction now.

I ran out to the garage and just fitted the fitting on the line quick. It is not cut to length, I will do that once the motor is in. I threw a clamp on it and just wanted to know if this is what you would think is better.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0464-2.jpg

This is a picture of the metal line that we are talking about. This is located right behind the drivers seat kind of underneath the car.

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Yes, the return line looks fine. You don't need to cut the supply line. You can get an adapter fitting to fit the metric threads on the current supply line fitting and use AN hose and a metric fitting to extend to the 996 fuel rail. That way everything is completely reversible.

-Todd

OK.. I didn't trace the fuel feed back that far. Where does it unscrew. You are talking about the feed line not on the rail right?

I think you are confused again. I am talking about the fitting that attached the feed line to the boxster rail. You can get a metric to AN adapter that will allow you to attach your new section of feed hose to this fitting without cutting the chassis side fuel line up to attach the hose with your new fitting for the 996 rail to the chassis metal fuel feed tube.

-Todd

I already cut off the plastic fuel line that was attached to the metal feed. It has a flare in it so I feel that that should be sufficient to put the new fuel line to. If you want I can take a photo of everything to better explain.

I understand exactly what you did, I just personally would have never done it that way.

-Todd

I just wanted to have as few connections as possible.

Jaay:

I don't know exactly how far you have gotten, but, if the engine is not yet installed, you might want to consider checking the IMS bearing for wear or play.

Here is a link to a video produced by Charles Navarro of LN Engineering, which will give you a good idea on what is involved:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvLRMGs-Ti8

If you have the single-row bearing on your new engine, you can retrofit an upgraded, severe duty ceramic bearing without tearing down the engine.

You only have to remove the flywheel and the IMS flange to examine and/or replace the bearing.

IMHO, it is well worth the effort for the peace of mind it will afford you.

Regards, Maurice.