That's awesome. Wish I was handy enough to do something like that myself.

Btw, are there any concerns about the 5-speed tranny being able to handle the extra power of the 3.4? I know a guy who has a 3.4 installed in his Boxster also, and he said he was on his 3rd 5-speed tranny already. He tracks his car though. I've driven his car, and the extra power is definitely a nice kick!

I assume you mean the hard line that connects directly to the reservoir. If so, hold the red ring evenly against the reservoir with the sides of a pair of needle nose pliers or the like. It is essential that it is evenly pushed in, while holding it against the housing, simply pull the hard line out of the housing. To reinstall, just push it back in.
Hope that is clear.

Boxtaboy,

I think your friend needs to invest in a trans oil cooler if he is going through transmissions like that (or driving lessons :) ). I have over 107k miles on my car with the original transmission. The car has been a supercharged 2.5, a 3.4, a 3.6 and a 3.6 X51 for most of those miles.

-Todd

Dang! :) He's actually a DE instructor! :D

that doesn't necessarily mean he's a good driver ;)

Does he advise "Go that way very fast. If something get's in your way, turn."?
:D

996 Fuel lines flipped around to boxster location on the 996 motor.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0275-2.jpg

Todd,

Do I flip them back around to stock 996 location and run a shorter return or do I leave them the way the boxster lines are placed and run a longer return?

I replied to your PM. If you want to use the 996 rails, you don't have to, you need to get an adapter and lengthen the supply line from the passenger side to the drivers side fitting. You will also need to fabricate a longer return line in order to work on the 996 rails. Using the boxster rails is easier, just cut off the mounting tabs and place them on top of the rails to work on the taller 996 intake.

Make sure you take off the 996 exhaust mounts before you put the motor back in.

-Todd

Ok. I finally got some of the gaskets that I ordered in. Below is a photo of the engine suspended by a non approved method by porsche :) This is what happens when you do not have a engine stand but have a lighting equipment company. I needed to get the motor off the floor to get the carrera mounts off it and the headers and also the water lines that run underneath the motor. We do not have water lines that run under our 986 motor just incase you were wondering. I was also able at this point to swap the lower water outlet in the other photo below with the motor in the air.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0277-1.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0278-1.jpg

I was able also to finish up the boxster wiring harness, P/S lines, oil filler tube, and oil dipstick base. Our Dipsticks are two parts, they just snap apart with the push of a tab.

Random photo of the trapeze setup.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0280-1.jpg

The P/S lines are pretty straight foward of a swap. To get to the lines it is easier to remove the A/C compressor than not to. You also have to swap over a small metal clip that holds a connector and is also a ground point. It also holds the P/S line. This needs to be swapped because the P/S lines are just routed a bit different. You also have to remove the pulley on the P/S pump to get to the one fitting that goes into the pump. Here are some photos of the pulley, little metal bracket and A/C bolts.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0290-2.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0287-2.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0293-1.jpg

Photo of the lower P/S line connection to the pump and the rear P/S line connected to the pump. The red ring that you see in the second picture is the piece that holds in that line. Todd told me how to get the line out for this one. You have to hold that little red clip in against the pump and then you will be able to pull the line straight out. I used a small pair of needle nose to hold it in place. It can be a bit of a pain but it is not a big deal. Then to reinstall the boxster line just simply hold the red clip against the pump again and push in the new line.

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0288-2.jpg
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0292-1.jpg

The other things that I did that really didn't get pictures but I think should be in the post, the oil filler tube and the lower dipstick tube both got new O-rings. No reason not to change them while they were out. I also ordered new O-rings for the injectors and a new clutch. I am going to be using a clutch out of a non-s 987. Todd has assured me that this is the way to go.

A photo of everything that I have done so far. I am now waiting for a throttle body gasket and intake manifold gaskets, clutch etc....

http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...DSC_0284-2.jpg

great thread
 

Just have to say...this thread is awesome. It's really nice have something so interesting to read while at work! :cheers:
Thanks for the great info and pictures.

bolts?
 

When removing the exhaust from the 3.4L, did any of the bolts break?

None of the header bolts broke. I have to say, taking apart that motor so far has been like taking apart a brand new motor. KNOCK ON WOOD
Getting my clutch I think this week and should have the motor in at the end of the week if all goes good with gaskets and all that.

I am still waiting for parts from porsche. I am going to move forward and do what I can with out these parts. I took a picture of my flywheel. This is the flywheel out of my boxster. I just had it changed along with my clutch before I pulled the motor. I am no longer using the stock clutch but I will be using my stock flywheel. I took it out today and didn't realize that it had accumlated quite a bit of rust. Check out the photo below.

Before Photo.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0435.jpg

I was pretty sure that I was going to have to buy a new one. :(
I went out to my local hardware store and bought some #2 and #00 steel wool and some WD40. I started with the #2 and finished off with the #00. I think the results were great.
Let me know what you think. Do you think I need a new flywheel? Also does anyone know if I need new flywheel bolts? Do they stretch? Correct me if I am wrong, 90ftlbs tourque on the crank bolts and 25 ftlbs on the pressure plate bolts.

After Photo.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s...S/DSC_0438.jpg

Replace the pilot bearing and it looks fine to me. Rust is fine it'll rust again.

Nice job cleaning up the flywheel.

If you need an extra pair of hands, send me a PM. I'm in Freeport, New York and I could shoot over there if you are stuck.

Regards, Maurice.

Thanks for the advice and the offers. Schoir, I will pm you when I am all done. Trade some war stories.

I forgot to ask.. The Pilot bearing..........How do I get it out and how do I get the new one back in?

The pilot bearing is pressed out from the backside toward the front and pressed back in from the front. Similar to a wheel bearing, putting the new bearing in the freezer will aid in re-installation.
-Todd

I am going to my dealer tomorrow morning to pick up the rest of my gaskets and what not. I am going to ask my buddy over there to see if one of the techs will do it for me.