Poll:IMS related engine failure - Page 5 - 986 Forum - The Community for Porsche Boxster & Cayman Owners

Trey T · 09-03-2013, 09:32 AM

Why does Porsche continue to use IMS instead of more direct drive, crank to head?

mikefocke · 09-04-2013, 05:04 PM

Porsche doesn't use the IMS design any more.

Trey T · 09-05-2013, 11:07 AM

When did they change it and which model have the newer engine design? Are there any photos of the newer H6 motor w/o the IMS? I'm curious to learn more about these H6 designs.

mikefocke · 09-05-2013, 11:40 AM

2009 models for Boxster marked the IMS-less design introduction. Maybe grab one of the car mags reviews from that time period for descriptions of what changed.

Trey T · 09-06-2013, 08:59 AM

Cool! It appears that the 997 (2nd gen) 2010 has the IMS deleted also.

Trey T · 09-06-2013, 11:26 AM

^I assumed w/ labor, then it's a fair pricing.

Mikelove · 09-07-2013, 05:37 AM

How many times to do see an aircraft engine fail with good results? The warning lights flash and a siren goes off, then its bang ! I think the gurdian is a waste of money

recycledsixtie · 09-07-2013, 05:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mikelove

How many times to do see an aircraft engine fail with good results? The warning lights flash and a siren goes off, then its bang ! I think the gurdian is a waste of money

I disagree because when there is sufficient metal in the oil plug sensor then the light/aural warning will come on to warn you of more disastrous results that could result if you kept on motoring....

True damage may have been done at that point but I believe it is worth it to save the engine block.

Vista glass · 09-10-2013, 04:58 PM

No
1998 base. 83,500
Put in LN IMS ceramic with clutch at 78,000.
The original IMS was in good shape, but"while you are in there....."

dixbu · 09-12-2013, 08:46 PM

No
'01 base
98k miles

pitafrog · 11-23-2013, 02:49 AM

Changed IMS bearing @ 76K great shape, new clutch, rear main, new IMS stock bearing with TuneRS motorsports lube kit, 9 qts. of fresh 0w40 M1 and back on the road. Life is good.:dance:

twindrop · 12-22-2013, 02:21 PM

Quick Question although I remember reading about it somewhere...

Can we do an internal poll to check out what OIL did people used with the cars that actually have an IMS failure? I guess that could held us pinpoint any issues with particular brands or viscosities... I cant remember reading about 10WXX or 15WXX related IMS topics...

any clues?

Tommhnyc · 03-02-2014, 12:57 PM

Hi Guys,

This is my first post so I would like to introduce myself and let you know that I've become a big fan of the Boxster.
I'm personally looking to buy my first boxster S. I found one but heard from the owner that there's a small leak from the IMS. My question is , should I stay away from it or buy it (it's priced reasonably) and get aftermarket IMS? If so, what's the estimated cost?
Is the engine ok even if there are signs of failure till the final engine failure or is it already too late to recover it w/o total engine replacement?

Thanks so much and look forward to becoming a happy owner soon.

-TomZ

thom4782 · 03-02-2014, 02:52 PM

There's isn't a clear answer.

How do you know it's the IMS that is leaking and not the RMS?

If it is the RMS, then you should replace the IMS at the same time with an aftermarket one.

If it is the IMS, more diagnostics are in order. Check the oil filter and the oil sump for metal debris. If you find metal, then I'd recommend walking away. It the IMS is failing, it's a crap shoot whether the engine will survive a long time without a complete rebuild because metal will be scattered throughout. Many frequent oil changes after the replacement might help but you just never know.

If you do buy the car, have an IMS experienced shop do the work.

Up through MY05, clutch, IMS and RMS costs about $2500 to $3500 depending on local rates. Ten hours or so of labor plus parts.

Tommhnyc · 03-02-2014, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by thom4782

There's isn't a clear answer.

How do you know it's the IMS that is leaking and not the RMS?

If it is the RMS, then you should replace the IMS at the same time with an aftermarket one.

If it is the IMS, more diagnostics are in order. Check the oil filter and the oil sump for metal debris. If you find metal, then I'd recommend walking away. It the IMS is failing, it's a crap shoot whether the engine will survive a long time without a complete rebuild because metal will be scattered throughout. Many frequent oil changes after the replacement might help but you just never know.

If you do buy the car, have an IMS experienced shop do the work.

Up through MY05, clutch, IMS and RMS costs about $2500 to $3500 depending on local rates. Ten hours or so of labor plus parts.

Thanks thom4782
How can you tell which one is leaking?
Unfortunately, this car is not within my driving distance and I rely on owner's honesty and his expertise.

I'm debating if I should take a chance and fly there (SF), have it checked at the shop, and then make a decision.

thom4782 · 03-02-2014, 08:11 PM

The only way I know is to remove the transmission and visually inspect the seal and bearing flange.

A check of the oil filter and sump for metal debris is an indirect way to see if the bearing is starting to fail. Another way is to look at the camshaft deviations when the engine is warmed up. They should be absolutely rock steady and within +/- 6 degrees.

MikenOH · 11-20-2014, 03:28 AM

Tim:
As the other member mentioned there is a ton of info available here on that subject.
Since you're new to the car, a few general observations:

-The condition can affect all engines--save the turbo/GT3 motors--used in all 986/987/996/997 model cars my 1997-2008.

-The reported frequency of IMS failure seems to vary by model year, depending on which bearing assy. is in the car. The early cars 1997-2000 and the 2005-2008 models reportedly have low rates of failure rates (1-2%?) while the prime years for this-- 2001-2004-- had significantly higher rates of failure (5-10%?) reportedly due to the switch to a single row bearing in those years. My own experience with a '99' and 06-- driven each about 45K miles and used extensively at auto-x and DEs--was problem free.

-Having said all that, there are members on various forums that have driven cars well over 100k with he original bearing. Frequent oil changes along with driving the car regularly--as opposed to rarely--seem to enhance longer bearing life.

-If I were in your shoes, I'd get the car to an indy that is very familiar with this motor and do a camshaft deviation check via a computer hook up. This will give you a clue as to how stable this assy is. Likewise opening up the filter and doing an oil analysis will provide additional info.

From this and other boards, it seems that a lot of people have treated pulling this bearing and doing the replacement as preventative maintenance. I think this makes sense, given the big price tag if the bearing goes.

Best of luck with what ever you decide.

timlawton · 11-20-2014, 09:20 AM

Mike,
thanks for your response. I feel a little better with those stats and that the car is well maintained. my indy did say first off he would do the oil analysis and a thorough inspection. I plan to follow his suggestions to the letter. he also said the same thing you and others have said, and that's some years were worse than others. he said most failures he saw occurred by 60,000 miles. I'm out of that window for my car.

originally, I never really liked the boxster and was holding out for a 911sc. it didn't happen and this car just appeared softly calling to me....I had to have it. it damn sure handles better than a 911...I don't miss the dreaded over steer of the 911's, which of course once you learned the car it pretty much became a non-issue....

thanks again to all...

tim

imon_2nd · 04-24-2016, 09:21 AM

I bought a 2004 Boxster S yesterday that has 98K miles on it and lots of service records. However the previous owner was pretty certain neither the IMS bearing nor the clutch had ever been replaced. Having researched these cars extensively, I've decided to have both done soon. My local Porsche expert at Schatz & Krum, Sacramento, CA, suggested using an oil-fed IMS bearing replacement, which would raise the cost of the combo job from about $2,800 to $3,400. The oil-fed bearing is supposedly a "life of the car" piece, as opposed to 40K miles on the ceramic bearing. Does anybody here have experience with the pressure-oiled IMS bearing?

landrovered · 03-05-2014, 04:29 AM

2001 Boxster S with 3.6 variocam plus engine with 55k miles. Started running poorly and made rotational chirping sounds like a water pump that is failing can make. I removers the serp belt and the sound did not go away. The exhaust cam on bank one had jumped one tooth and the bearing while still intact was wobbly and the ball bearings were no longer spherical. There was a small amount of glitter in the oil filter but the majority of the swarf was in the intermediate shaft behind the bearing. I replaced the bearing with the Pelican bearing using the LN tool kit. I recommend that you pin the crank and the number one bank on three chain motors and not rely on the set screws provided with the pelican bearing kit. My exhaust cam jumped a few links and was a royal pain to get back in time but I was able to do it with the motor in situ. Lesson learned. I cleaned the sump and all the accessible areas of the block to remove any swarf, I also changed the oil and filter after 40 miles and am going to change it again at 500 to make sure that any metal particles are removed.